i am having an issue where my battery is dying after leaving the car for about a week without starting it. i have a brand new redtop optima battery and was having the same issue with the previous battery. im wondering if you guys have ever had this issue and if there are common areas that draw down the battery to look at first before i dig deep into the wiring. any help would be greatly appreciated.

Views: 95

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

It's usually an add-on, like an aftermarket stereo, alarm, led light setup, etc...
Easy way to find out is to take off the positive terminal from the battery and connect a test light between the battery and the cable end.   With all accessories off and the doors closed, the light should be off.   If it's on, simply go inside and remove fuses from the panel and reinstall one at a time them until the light goes out (make sure the interior lights are off while you do this, so they don't draw and keep the light lit).    Whichever fuse makes the light go out when you pull it contains the shorted circuit.

it's very likely also that it's the alternator field draining, which won't show up in the fusebox test, because it has it's own circuit,  so disconnect the ignition harness at the inline fuse and see if the light goes out after the fusebox test.

The clock is constantly running and drawing current from the battery and it will reduce the batteries longevity if this constantly is happening ( constantly drawing down the battery ) 

It will draw down the battery in a period of time  if the car is not used as is often the case with our Cadillacs 

You can use a smart type charger to keep the battery topped   off —or disconnect the negative terminal of the battery when the car is sitting idle and reconnect  it when you use the car 

I recommend disconnecting the neg terminal until you find the source of the battery drain to protect the battery from wear and a reduced life span 

The above only applies —if you do not have a short in your electrical system then use Mark’s suggestions to track down the short would be the way to go 


In addition to the suggestions I would also make sure the battery is good and doesn't have a bad cell etc by disconnecting the battery cable and taking all load off if it. Get voltage measurement after about an hour after engine is shut off then go back in a couple of days, It should be basically the same, with hardly any drop. I have  battery I keep in the counter for testing stuff and it stays basically the same months on end with no current draw.
You will also obviously want to check "switched" lights like the trunk light, glove box light, and of course the interior lights to make sure they are off when you think they are off.
Just to add on the fuse box text, you can also just use an ammeter in place of the light if you have one to get an exact amperage draw reading. There is also a chance the short is between the battery and fuse box in which case the pulling. fuse trick will not help, but would  still let you know you still have a short with all the "fused" circuits disconnected, 

Pull the body feed fuse and use a test light with an additional alligator clip.  Clip the test light to the clips on the body feed fuse slot. If the light lights up, the draw is in the body feed section. Push the door jamb switch button in to shut the interior lights off so see if the test light goes out. 

If the light stays on, you will need to find what section of the wire harness the draw is in. Disconnect the left section at the left kick panel.  If the light stays on, disconnect at the right kick panel.  If the light stays on, the draw is in the dash somewhere. 

The clock, glove box light, ash tray lights dash lights. 

If the body feed fuse is not the culprit, pull each fuse and use the test light to see what fuse lights up. 

The ignition wire harness is not protected by fuses, so test that also. It connects to the bottom of the fuse panel. 

In my experience, window switches are a possible culprit. Any electrical gizmo potentially is.

My suggestion is to use Diehard Gold batteries, which are still made in the USA. Optimas are not good in my experience.

I always install a good quality in line battery switch, not the cheap brass one for battery terminals which go bad after a while.


Always use a trickle charger when the car is sitting. GENIUS ones are great.



  • Add Photos
  • View All


64 Coupe deVille convertible

Started by Fab in For Sale. Last reply by Fab 31 minutes ago. 6 Replies

Great condition, car is a driver, not a show car, but can be one with not much more work. Laundry list of items that have been updated, refreshed, rebuilt, etc. Reach out for details, too much to…Continue

Question about the 1963 Hydramatic Oil-Filter

Started by Stefan in General Discussion. Last reply by Russ Austin 2 hours ago. 12 Replies

Hello everyone,Has anyone of you ever opened the transmission filter and can tell me whether there is filter fabric in there or a metal screen, that can be washed out? The number on the transmission…Continue

Current 1963/64 Cadillac Listings on eBay

Started by Jason Edge in For Sale. Last reply by Jason Edge 2 hours ago. 1 Reply

To see all 1963/64 Cadillacs Listed on eBay in the USA…Continue

Tags: ebay

Head casting numbers

Started by Shep2 in General Discussion. Last reply by Russ Austin 14 hours ago. 1 Reply

Hi,  My LH cylinder head is cracked.  Casting number is 1473449.  I noticed in the part number book it lists two casting numbers.  Does anyone know if that means 1473449 and 1468025 are…Continue

Blog Posts

Fuel Pump Failure

Posted by Jon Shields on August 6, 2022 at 6:48am 3 Comments


I'm located in Melbourne, Australia and my 64 sedan de ville is stuck in the garage due to failed mechanical fuel pump. The first after market mechanical fuel pump lasted a few years before it failed & left me stranded 5 hours from home. A hire car and tow got us home. On inspection, I noticed a valve not seated within the housing. I was optimistic, pressed it into place and assumed the pump was good to go. But alas, no. From what I can now determine, the diaphragm pushrod…


Renovation project 1964 Cadillac Deville convertible

Posted by Balachne on May 31, 2022 at 7:00am 3 Comments

Renovation project 1964 Cadillac Deville convertible



To achieve an excellent result of vehicle restoration, it is essential to  manage this task as one manages an industrial project.

To do this we will use a certain formalism of project management and therefore start by defining the need. It is from this that we will deduce the scope, then the time of execution of the…


I was working on my HVAC system this winter and during the process of taking the dash pad off these two parts fell out. Does anyone know what they are and where they go?

Posted by Patrick Westphal on April 12, 2022 at 1:35pm 1 Comment

I was working on my HVAC system this winter and during the process of taking the dash pad off these two parts fell out. Does anyone know what they are and where they go?

1964 Cadillac Coupe DeVille Convertible Speedometer Bulbs

Posted by Russell L Parr on April 1, 2022 at 9:15pm 6 Comments

I need to replace the bulbs for the speedometer cluster in my instrument panel..

Before I open up the dash, I want to have the necessary bulbs on hand.

Can someone help me determine what bulbs I need, the number of bulbs I need,  and where to purchase them?

Your help will be greatly appreciated.


  • Add Videos
  • View All

© 2022   Created by Jason Edge.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service