Hey all, new guy, as you can tell because I'm going to be asking a question that's been answered a hundred times. Been looking for a while and I can't seem to find anything in detail.

I have a 64 Coupe Deville. I just reinstalled the power windows last week and have been fighting with them since. Everything with the windows was thoroughly cleaned and greased. Took all the motors apart, cleaned contacts, brushes, etc. they work great. From reading through the website I understand these windows don't miraculously fall into place and you have to spend some time with them to get them adjusted correctly.I can not get the window to go the last half inch up without pulling it by hand (with quarter window down) it's like the spring is weak and the motor kicks off before its all the way up. It stops when it hits the new exterior rubber window seal. When I took the motors off the regulators, I drilled the hole and put a bolt through to hold the tension so the springs never came off. 

Do the springs go bad to help lift the window?

Is there a way to put more tension in the spring?

Car has all new rubber and vent window divide channel so slow operation is assumed. All the up stops are loose so they aren't stopping it. 

Lastly, the lower chrome sash channel on the passenger side front window looks swollen with crud and rust, is this fixable by removing the window and cleaning it out or would I need to replace it? 

 

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Just a couple of quick comments:
- When you say up stops are loose, they might be trying to slide up and down. I would adjust to allow max up travel and then readjust down.
- Did you clean and re-grease the main lower sash Channel Cam (the bottom slide section seen as E in Fig 16-23 on page 16-20 in shop manual),  window inner panel cam (L).
- are all the regulator rollers round, or are any broken off? I often find the round white plastic roller broken or chips. I have never found that they have to rotate and can slide through the channels as long as they are cleaned and well lubed, but broken and chipped they can bind.
- Is the rear run channel inner felt material in good condition? Any corrosion in there?
- Finally it is typical to have rot and rust in the chrome bottom sash channel and if it has expanded enough may prevent the window in its last 1/4" or so travel where it wedges up between the outer rubber scraper seal and top of door panel felt seal.  I have also seem windows, especially on the long heavy coupes where the window is physically coming out of the bottom chrome sash channel which can cause additional issues. Unless you have very minor issues, these lower chrome channels usually have to be replaced. There are direct replacements for the convertibles, and those can be modified (shortened) to work on coupes (2 dr hard tops). For more info click on this Help Topic:
Window Channel - Modifying a new Convertible Door Window Channel to....  

first and foremost, Thank you!

I went back out and ran the window up and down a few more times after typing the question and I think my lower sash channel is hanging up on the new rubber belt molding sweeps.It stops there every single time. The passenger side motor was completely rusted out so I replaced it and it does the exact same thing, so that took the motor out of the equation. 

-the up stops don't touch the stops on either end when the motor stops they aren't loose per say, but they aren't doing anything either. The regulator gear stop doesn't touch either. 

-I will pull the driver window apart and recheck all the rollers, I didn't notice any broken or chipped when I cleaned everything but at this point I can have it out in less than 5 minutes. 

-The rear run channel doesn't have any corrosion but the felt seems to be pretty worn down.

- I will be doing the convertible sash channels. What size rubber or cork (looking for recommendation) do you use to reset the bottom of the window after replacing the sash. 1/32 or 1/16?

first and foremost, Thank you!
I went back out and ran the window up and down a few more times after typing the question and I think my lower sash channel is hanging up on the new rubber belt molding sweeps.It stops there every single time. The passenger side motor was completely rusted out so I replaced it and it does the exact same thing, so that took the motor out of the equation.
-the up stops don't touch the stops on either end when the motor stops they aren't loose per say, but they aren't doing anything either. The regulator gear stop doesn't touch either.
-I will pull the driver window apart and recheck all the rollers, I didn't notice any broken or chipped when I cleaned everything but at this point I can have it out in less than 5 minutes.
-The rear run channel doesn't have any corrosion but the felt seems to be pretty worn down.
- I will be doing the convertible sash channels. What size rubber or cork (looking for recommendation) do you use to reset the bottom of the window after replacing the sash. 1/32 or 1/16?

Silicone spray works well as a lube and protects rubber at the same time
Will help the window to traval thru its path with less resistance

Enjoy

Mostly just leave the inner door off until you get the window to work as it Should
I remember riding around a few days with the inside door off before i learned the adjustments that needed to be done and then putting it back together
Got it right after studing what it was doing for a while

Enjoy

So I took off the outer belt molding with the outer rubber sweep on it and the window now goes all the way up no problem! I got the outer window sweeps from OPGI, a company called Top Catwiskers.

Ever heard of this happening?

I will be replacing both lower sash channels and try this again. The rubber window sweeps aren't very expensive so I may be ordering them from a separate company to compare. 

I replaced all of my outer rubber scraper seals with rubber from Steele Rubber. I have not replaced the inner top of door panel felt.

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