Time to go bk to MT.  Giving thevCDV one more xc attempt.  

Got going from MS this morning.  Car been running good for three months.  60 miles out from dallas.  Engine statred missing, particularly on a slow climb,   ive been running about 65 or its seemed as it got worse as it got hotter outside.  Its 93 at 4pm.  Temp has been at 188 90, oil pressure at 25. 26.  After 1st tank, 16.2 mpg.  

Well, it finally got to missing were i felt need to pull off.

So looking under hood.  No gas leak.   I checked carb nuts. Gave them a nudge.  I did notice under the pcv there was a little pubble od blark, carmelly stuff, bubblin.  I stuck something in ii, smelled like gunky oil, so i figured it was maybe coming from round the hoese, so i gave them a tightening down.

I had titened up, fuel ile other day, so its not leaking atvcarb. Fuel pump not leaking either.

My carb is set for abput 6000 feet, dalas is about 400.  Could i be experirnceing some sort of combo of vapor lok and  card setting defieciencey due to the heat and altitude?  If not, were would i need to go nxt for solution.

Im gonna sit a while, let it cool. And wsit out dallas 5 pm traffic to see if that helps. But any thoughts would be helpful.


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Sounds to me to be ignition related 

When did you replace your points  last   dist cap and rotor last and what is there current condition of your points ( if you have points ? ) 

A worn dist cap could be the issue 

Only use the dist caps with the brass terminals which were the stock type when the car was new 

Stay away from the zinc dist type terminals as they come up short lived and will get you stranded at some point in the future 

Let me know what you find 

The  stock ignition parts are only good for 6,000 miles 



Hi,  it been probly 9 or 10. But im running the petronics

You mention ignition.  Mine had either crept or moved on tighting but was about 9 mayybe 10.

I reset to 6to 7.  Would tjat have contributed?

ok,  I sat for about an hour, checked all the things I mentioned, changed timing. (about 6) and decided to carry on to see what would happen.  Started fine, eased out of gas station, felt ok,, when I gave it a little gas to get into traffic, it was sputtering and missing, like someone with a cough,, just coughing for fuel or air is what it felt like, I guess,  I just laid on it, it sputtered a few more times then we were off.  I stayed a steady 55-60 for 150 miles or so with NO problem.. then, in Dallas, I slowed down to about 40, and it coughed a time for two, I eased off the gas a little till it felt like it had fuel or what ever it needed, it smoothed out, and went another 50 miles with no problem. I even stood on it right before I got to the hotel ( so I knew if it died, id be close) and went from about 40 to 65 like I was making a pass, and there was no problem at all.  So I dont know what it was.  I do know it got even hotter outside, almost 95 as we moved through Dallas and my engine temp stayed up about 193 to 195,  Oil stayed at 25, or 26.   

tomorrow, going to go through north Texas towards Amarillo (by morning) parts store about every 30 miles it seems, so I will try to see how we do in the much cooler temps in the nmorings and get parts if needed.. I have all my tools with me, thus the low rider look of the car,, it sits really low,,,and heavy feeling,, I hate that rear low look, but its what im stuck with till get back to. any other ideas always helpful

Feels like you have a spark plug that is acting up and may be misfiring which throws off its correct firing time some 

It might get progressively worse with time and more use —so kept an eye on it 

Glad you are still on the move 


The most the ign timing advance does is cause the engine to ping ( causing extra cylinder heat ) when hard on acceleration (  called detonation ) 

As you have the Pertronics and no points  change the dist cap and rotor if not done for a while and set timing @ 8 degrees 

Always check your final timing number  — after you tighten down the dist hold down nut—- as it can  often change at that time 

Tell me what’s up as you proceed 


Detonation and excessive heat in cylinders  can damage the spark plug electrode 

If the cap and rotor are replaced and does not solve your missing  - pull the plugs and given them a look for damage and replace them 

Might be oil fowling a plug and it will look black 


You should still be breaking in your new engine ( under 10,000 miles ) and the that is rough on the spark plugs as the cylinder rings are seating at first  and some oil gets to the plugs until that process is completed internally causing to plugs foul from oil getting to them 

A bad plug will look oily and black on the electrode and threads 



If you find a need to be changing your spark plugs — use the Autolight  spark plug that is the equivalent of the stock  Delco spark plug for the 390 

They will give you superior performance over the stock plugs ( I have trouble remembering the number of the Autolight plug - I think it is an 85 or 45 number  ) 

The plug gap SB 40-45 with a Pertronics ignition 


Hey Kim 

Good Morning 

I would change the PCV valve, clean the plugs and see if that improves anything. A stuck PCV valve can cause this issue ... which will also foul the plugs. If you remove the PCV valve and shake it it should rattle indicating it is still good. Regardless you can replace for $5 and with some fine sandpaper, you can clean the plugs for free. Unless there are "before & after changes" you have not stated, that would be the first thing I would check. If you were running points I would check the contacts and lightly sand ... but believe  you have Pertronix.  If that doesn't improve things you can check the other 34 things Tony has listed. :-)


Very  very Funny - but it was only 33 things !   LOL ! 



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