If all electrical connections are correct you will need to move the dist foward and back in very small increments while someone is cranking the starter for you to see if that gets the engine running
The dist clamp needs to be just snug enough so you can move the dist until it starts then tighten it down
Yes —-try the other direction ( dist counter clock wise ) in small increments while cranking the engine
The engine will want to fire when your —-rotor is just slightly —-before—your number one plug terminal on the dist or to explain it another way —slightly advanced of number one on the dist cap—- ( exactly 5 degrees before the number one dist terminal ) if you set your timing at the stock setting of 5 degrees advanced
Keep me posted and explaining what you see and hear
Set your crank and timing plate to 5 degrees —-instead of on zero- —on the compression stroke same as before but now at 5 degrees
Now your - rotor SB located just slightly before the number one terminal when under the dist cap and the engine should fire off as the timing is very very close to where the plug fires in the number one cylinder normally
If you are following my prior directions on installing the dist —-the rotor SB around 11 o’clock ish location with you on the driver side fender
Hope that helps
Late up w insomnia, i did some reading, somewere tontest coil. Then test for spark at plug. So, this a.m. i did that, coil was out of range at the center positive test, and tenth from being out on the positvie and negative post test. So, i figured maybe not getting spark at all. So for 28.oo got another coil, tested and it was in ranges for both test.
Pulled #1 plug w wire attached. Got in darknplace in engine, turned on the video, and tyrned it over a couple times, a whiteish yello spark was observed, so at least i know i hv a spark.
Will continue with suggestions put out by Tony an Mark when i can find someone to help.
Just throwing out what i hv done in meantime.
VIDEO ATTACHED!! After chging coil, hooked up timung light, adjusted, dist back to 0. No start. Retarded it, seemed more willing to fire. Backed a little more and it took off. Wouldnr hold. Couple more times and it finally fired, timing light looks at about retarded 10, using the appx size of scale. It smokes like hell under driver exhaust. May be burning off sime oil from when i ran the priming process to get oil to rockers. Also noted a pretty significant gas leak at carb. Enough to warrant shut off, gonna need a new gasket set i think, there, its tightened to proper torque. SO, will wait on that to come in, change out, and try again and fine tune a bit. You can see the smoke volume,
Any thoughts. Questions , concerns appreciated
It’s Alive ! —-it’s Alive !
The beast is ALIVE ! ! !
Yeah, finally, but lots of breakin in left and timing adjustment after i chg out carb gaskets, it was really pouring out. Not sure why. But will try to tackle tomoro.
Did you have the carb apart for any reason and if so what did you do to it ?
Nope, just removed it and replaced it
I think your needles and seats that the floats open and close — as they fall and rise that let fuel into the fuel bowls could just be stuck or possible worn showing itself
When the needles do not close off the fuel flow as they should—- the fuel bowls overflow— and fuel comes out the base of the carb as you did say the fuel leak was on the higher side
This is really just my —Best Guess on that
You might consider having the carb rebuilt or get a replacement as an option of coarse
I know very little about the Rodchester carbs myself but I am an expert on the Carter as I had two on my Super Stock race engine
For most —it is best to have a carb shop do a carb rebuild for them and drop it on
Do not get discouraged as there always seems to be bugs. that pop up that need to be addressed when firing up a new build
I think you are doing great and few will know the workings of there ride as you do —-priceless