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If all  electrical connections are correct you will need to move the dist foward and back in very small increments while someone is cranking the starter for you to see if that gets the engine running 

The dist clamp needs to be just snug enough so you can move the dist until it starts then tighten it down 


I again, pulled distrib and 1st plug. Had brother plug 1st plug hole, turned engine until he felt outwatd pressure on thumb. Continured to roll engine till mark hit tdc at zero. Lined up the dist till it rolled in to poit at the one spark plug. Put dist cap on w one plug wire socket on cap is direct over the over the pointer. Put all bk tigether. Thats right from book.

Is there any addl wiring im missing? I hv 2 wires from petronix that go to the coil. The solenoid on top of coil goes to pos coil xonnection and a yellpw wire that comes from firewall that i had a picture of before breakdown of engine that hooks to pos coil post.

Is there another connection i hv left out thats required?

Tony, last time we tried b4 i pulled out today, i did some advancing w no chg. Maybe tomoro, go other way.

Am getting no hint that its even close.

Yes —-try the other direction (  dist counter clock wise ) in small increments while cranking the engine 

The engine will want to fire when your —-rotor is  just slightly —-before—your number one plug    terminal on the dist or to explain it another way —slightly advanced of number one on the dist cap—- ( exactly 5 degrees before  the number one  dist terminal ) if you set your timing at the stock setting of 5 degrees advanced 

Keep me posted and explaining what you see and hear 


Try this 

Set your crank and timing plate to 5 degrees —-instead of on zero- —on the compression stroke same as before but now  at 5 degrees 

Now your - rotor SB located just slightly before the  number one  terminal  when under the dist cap and the engine should fire off as the timing is very very close to where the plug fires in the number one cylinder normally 

If you are following my prior directions  on installing the dist —-the rotor SB around  11 o’clock ish location with you on the driver side fender 

Hope that helps 


Late up w insomnia, i did some reading,  somewere tontest coil. Then test for spark at plug.  So, this a.m. i did that, coil was out of range at the center positive test, and  tenth from being out on the positvie and negative post test.   So, i figured maybe not getting spark at all. So for 28.oo got another coil, tested and it was in ranges for both test.

Pulled #1 plug w wire attached.  Got in darknplace in engine,  turned on the video, and tyrned it over a couple times,  a whiteish yello spark was observed,  so at least i know i hv a spark.

Will continue with suggestions put out by Tony an Mark when i can find someone to help.

Just throwing out what i hv done in meantime.

VIDEO ATTACHED!!   After chging coil, hooked up timung light, adjusted, dist back to 0.  No start. Retarded it, seemed more willing to fire. Backed a little more and it took off.  Wouldnr hold.  Couple more times and it finally fired, timing light looks at about retarded 10, using the appx size of scale.    It smokes like hell under driver exhaust.  May be burning off sime oil from when i ran the priming process to get oil to rockers.  Also noted a pretty significant gas leak at carb.  Enough to warrant shut off,   gonna need a new gasket set i think, there, its tightened to proper torque.  SO, will wait on that to come in, change out, and try again and fine tune a bit.  You can see the smoke volume,

Any thoughts. Questions , concerns appreciated

It’s Alive ! —-it’s Alive !

The beast is ALIVE ! ! !


Yeah, finally, but lots of breakin in left and timing adjustment after i chg out carb gaskets,  it was really pouring out.   Not sure why.  But will try to tackle tomoro.  

Did you have the carb apart for any reason and if so what did you do to it ? 


Nope, just removed it and replaced it

I think your needles and seats that the floats open and close — as they fall and rise that let fuel into the fuel bowls could just be stuck or possible worn showing itself 
When the needles do not close off the fuel flow as they should—- the fuel bowls overflow— and fuel comes out the base of the carb as you did say the fuel leak was on the higher side 

This is  really just my —Best Guess on that 

You might consider having the carb rebuilt or  get a replacement as an option of coarse 

I know very little about the Rodchester carbs myself but I am an expert on the Carter as I had two on my Super Stock race engine 

For most —it is best to have a carb shop do  a carb rebuild for them and drop it on 
Do not get discouraged as there always seems to be bugs. that pop up that need to be addressed when firing up a new build 

I think you are doing great and few will know the workings of there ride as you do —-priceless 




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