To get to bulb on the turn signal indicator at front of fender remove headlight bezel, then look up for a 5/16" hex headed screw with flat screwdriver slot. The screw is angled diagonally downward and can be seen circled in green below. Either use a flat screwdriver or 1/8" drive 5/16" socket to remove the screw. The indicator top will then come off exposing the bulb. The base does not need to come off to remove the top and access the bulb.
BUT... before you do that if the light intermittently works, it might just be a ground problem. Tighten the retaining nuts at front and rear of base (circled in red below) and see if that resolves the problem. If serrated nuts are heavily corroded, remove and put new lock washers (or new serrated head nuts) on the studs to make sure it digs into the metal and provides a good ground. Note: to access the rear nut I use an 1/8" extension, swivel joint, and socket. I will remove the front bolt first as you can then tilt the base upward and get better access to the rear nut. I believe you may can get to from under the fender ... maybe not .. but you need to be a contortionist. The long extension and swivel joint has always worked for me..and a light and patience!
I fix the corroded ends by grinding down to good metal, and rebuilding the base with JB weld. Find a star washer for the base, so the JB weld gets into the washer.
While I have never used JB weld on the indicator base, I have used JB Weld on the sockets if not too far gone. Usually, on the bases I bring in, it is just the serrated nut that engages the bottom of the fender that needs to be addressed. The example picture I posted above would be a good example where the base is good, nuts are rusting, but the socket could use some JB Weld as it is starting to corrode at the one point. I have pulled in several, especially 1963's where the bulb socket has completely rusted out. Of course East Coast vs dry Arizona weather can make a lot of difference.
Thanks Jason and Russ. I got the front nut off. Ill clean it up and be sure ground connection is good. I also got the cover off to expose the bulb. Corroded in there. Bulb is a silver color which explains brightness issues. Of course I broke the bulb trying to get it out. Its out now. No spring action! Soaking it. We shall see. Have you ever replaced these (and other bulbs in the car) with led's? Results? Thanks, ernie
Ernie, I've never replaced this bulb with a LED and have to say with a good bulb, clean orange lens up in the indicator it is a pretty bright light. And as an "indicator" light that is not really meant to light up anything (the stock 1445 bulb is rated at 1 CP), but just let you know your turn signal is on, wouldn't see much advantage of having that light super bright. If yours is silver you will probably see a lot of difference with a new bulb in there. If you need any of these bulbs I have plenty and can send you a couple for a couple of bucks but you can probably find them at local auto parts stores or online new.
I was able to push the wire up through the socket. The wire end and plastic base pushed out. I see no spring. Maybe I could wind one on the do the job. I would guess that spring is not very long. I cleaned up the ground and now get a good blink through a test light.
I've done that before. Spring is not big. It would be good if you had another light socket you could compare spring. You may find them in the Help Section of auto parts stores.
Just go to a hardware store (I prefer ACE), and get a few springs that will fit inside. I cut them down to fit. Get a few in different stiffness, and play around. The spring has to compress, so you get the bulb pushed in.
The spring has to be wide enough, to not fall out the bottom.