Hi everbody, I've just uploaded a video in YouTube. It would be nice, if "somebody" takes a look and an ear to the sound. Here's the text: ""coldstart" by 20 degrees celsius outside temperature. rocker arms and shafts are new. the valve tips have only appr. 1 mm material left. the lifters and pushrods are "old", but they are looking good. oil and filter are changed. the rods and the lifters are spinning - I think, that this is normal. if the engine gets warmer, the noise is getting less. even after appr. 3 minutes the oil appears on the top of the rocker arm and goes down to the end to prime the valve tip. less than one: no oil. the oil indicator in the cockpit shows pressure quickly and any time. oil: 20 W 50. any suggestions ? oil pump? valves (guides) ? hydraulic lifters ? pushrods ? a rod knock ? or maybe everything....if you like, you can also e-mail me: email@example.com. many thanks, Robert out of Germany."
Thank you friends !valvetrain noise cadillac 1964 429 cui
You need to evaluate the sound when the engine is to operating temp and slightly after that ( my 64 429 )
I have had a lifter noise at times when starting the car after it sitting for a long period of time but it always went away after warming up the oil
Sometimes one lifter can be very loud but--- always goes away when engine warms at idle
The manual calls for a 10w 30 weight oil-- so use that weight oil
50 weight is to thick to flow through the engines oil passages as it should when engine is hot so could be adding to your problem reducing lubrication
If using a conventional oil off the shelf today you may need to be adding a Zinc additive off the shelf to protect the flat tappet cam lifters from wearing prematurely
I use Castrol GTX coventional oil with a Rislone zinc additive to protect the cam and lifters after using Syn oils for years that are much more expensive ( and do leak oil more from gasket surfaces and the rear crankshaft seal than a conventional oil )
Using a 15,000 mile syn oil when i put 1,000 miles a year on my 64 started not to make sence ( all oils must be changed at a one year interval no matter how many miles on it due to acid formation )
I have cut my oil loss at the crankshaft rear seal by 2/3 ( pan under the car ) by going back to a conventional oil that the manual calls for in our year cars
There were No Syn oils made when our cars were new
It might just be me - but i think the engine performs slightly better on the conventinal oil than the syn's ( just going by a seat of the pants feel )
There has been --a major issue with the rocker arms being --installed backwards-- on many -- newly rebuilt engines so be very sure they are installed correctly
Seafoam Rislone or Marvelous Mystery oil are products to add to your oil to reduce valve train lifter noise
The lifters are little oil pumps that can get dirt in them that can cause valve train noise to happen
So change the oil to a 10 -30 and be sure your Zinc level is correct as we have a flat tappet cams in our year cars
Less zinc is required in all the newer engines with roller type cam shafts so all oils have reduced the zinc in oil for that reason and are not good for our cars unless zinc is added to the shelf bought oils available today
If the above does not solve the noise issue the valve train may have to be examined for possible replacement of parts and cam wear
Hi Tony, thanks for your respond. So I need 10-30 and a zinc additive, such as from Edelbrock? In Germany there is no great selection of this stuff.
One mm material left of the valve stem - over the valve locks. This is what I mean. The rocker arms are new - without any wear. I've checked the push rods the way you've mentioned. And they are not bent.
Disregard my last note about replacing the rocker arms
I see you replaced the rocker arms and they SB new now
If the tops of the valve stems are smooth they SB fine
In the USA i get my oil ( Castrol GTX 10w-30 ) at an auto parts store or my local department store like Walmart
The Zinc additive i use is called --ZDDP and made by Rislone a lubrication products company around for 100 years
Look for the stuff on line and have it delivered if possible
Getting the right oil for our cars requires a little special attention --due to our flat tappet cams to prevent internal engine damage
I do not know if Edelbrock is a source of the correct oil
Castrol GTX 10w-30 is not available in Germany. I cannot order the Rislone ZDDP: they only ship to the States. I've found a classic oil HD SAE 30 from "Wagner" - made in Germany. Tomorrow, I will give them a call...they also have additives with ceramic. What do you think about SAE 40 ? I think about the usual leaking. It would be more with a thinner oil - I think. Thanks Tony
Hey Robert, do you get Penrite Oils in Germany?
If so, they make a terrific oil. With modern technology these days, I firmly believe, you can run a different grade of oil with no issues.
Oils is the 60's when these thing were new, have been improved on out of sight.
OK, i had a look and it would seem you can buy Penrite in the land of the Volkswagen.
I use a HPR 30 20W-60 full zinc oil.
I'm sure it would go well in your car, it sure does in mine.
Kevin, summers in Australia is a lot warmer than summers in Germany. SAE 60 is rather high. I see the point using that oil in 45C summers but not 25-30C.
Good point boss.... :-)
I must admit, i hadn't even considered the difference in temp. I was wrrrr.... I was wrrrrr..... I was wrrrrro...... ah stuff it, maybe I wasn't entirely correct. LOL.
Well Kevin, my only concern is that the oil in your car will be in the cylinder head and not the oil sump as you car is up side down. Cant be good for any car to be on its head...
Kevin, I spoke to the technical guru at Penrite re my 1964 Caddy and he recommended their RACING 10 oil, 10W-40 PAO ESTER SYNTHETIC. It ain't cheap, but neither is an engine rebuild. I'm in Melbourne, where are you? By the way, I use their HPR 30 in my 1974 Corvettes. John Smith aka "aussiejohn"
Mate, i'm an hour west of Brisbane. (Pretty hot climate out here)