I was trying to install my water crossover pipe today, and was having a real hard time getting it to fit flush and secure. 

Is it possible that heat had caused it ti warp some from watever enigine it came off off,  or could it be the reason they sent 4 gaskets for that joint be to fill for that.   I know that 25 lbs of torque will not fill the gap, so im wondering is there a  Hidden repair or how this should be handled


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Does this offset inlet look correct.   ? Sorry foget the valves, accidentally put that there.

Its the water pump inlet on top im asking about

If you are asking is it normal to have the offset hole in the top bore where male neck of cylinder head water outlet pipe fits into the top of water pump bore, the answer is yes.  Your bore, looks very clean and nice and see no issues there. Hopefully the male neck on the bottom of the outlet pipe is nice and smooth without corrosion. If it has corrosion you can build it back up with JB Weld or swap out with a better outlet pipe. I have never used but one outlet pipe to head gasket per side, and one O ring installed per shop manual (in cavity first) and have never had a leak, but have also made sure the male neck that inserted into the bore was nice. 

Well,  i have tried inserting the male part and it gave a good fit into the oring which i did insert into the pump. Not on the pipe nipple.  I remeber your article regarding the jbweld buildup.  However, my concern arose when i put it in, and pressed it to the two points on each side were it uses the gaskes on the head,, it simply wouldnt fit flat and flush,  without the gasket, no matter how i twisted and shifted the outlet pipe to try and get it flush,  it just wouldnt get there.  Thus my question about the top of water pump hole being offcentered,   it leaves a gap at those connection. Of 16th to an 8th inch.  The holes line up on the block, but they either tilt toward top, or toward bottom.    I had bought a water pipe from ypu some while back i think, or from Russ, as mine on my original block looked a bit corroded, so anticpating s problem. I bought it.   So, i took the one off my old engine, put it on the rebuild and thsame gap exist.  So it wasnt the pipe.   

I will try to work it tomoro again.  Russ said he has used 2 gaskets, so i may hv to go that route.

Anyway,  thats the sequence of were i am and why i had concern on that gap at the connection onto the heads

I have had to use 2 gaskets on each side.  But, the fit doesnt look perfect, but it works. 

So the milled out inlet is ok offset center like that?   i will use two as u suggesr?

Permatex  (  an external coolant sealant ) on the two O rings will be a no leak solution there 

The manual indicates to use a water pump lube and a coolant sealant —in the coolant of our year cars 

I have found — Alumaseal ( looks like aluminum partials ) is the very best coolant  system sealant on the market for 50 years I have used it in a few cars 

I have used two Alumaseal in my cooling system to repair a minor leak in my heater core at one time that did hold up for a very very long time before the heater leaked again and was replaced at that point 

The stuff works unlike other coolant sealers that have not worked for me over the years 


I have had zero success with the —- Bars line of coolant sealants from my own experience which were  the mostly available brand a while back 

Alumaseal will not clog up the internal water jackets of the cooling system just seals the system as it should 


I wouldn't put any of that gunk inside any radiator unless it was a dire emergency and just trying anything to get the car to a location to where it could get serviced. JMO

As the service manual indicates to be using a sealant and a water pump lube  in the coolant when changing it what is it that you choose to be using in that case to meet those directions ?

I still have the original stock radiator in my 64 convert with no issues after following the service manuals instructions for a coolant change and using the coolant sealant that I have used for over 50 years with only the best possible results 

My own great success with the Alumaseal product is the reason I took the time to recommend the product to the community as we should be using a sealant in our year cars coolant 

My purpose is to recommend a product that I know will do the job with no additional negative issues to help others make a good chose regarding a coolant sealant when it is needed and used 

Do you just use a coolant with no additives in your 64 CDV ?


Most modern antifreeze coolants have rust inhibitors (often in the way of silicates) and I have never added anything to my coolant. I do sometimes use the radiator flush when changing anti-freeze to make sure passages are unclogged. Keep in mind the "sealer"s that were referred to in the 1964 were more for sealing (i.e. coating) and protecting the metal, and not so much plugging pin-hole leaks, hairline cracks, etc. 

Kim, When you say things like "milled out inlet" is there any chance you can use Shop Manual terminology? I think I have an above average deficiency trying to decipher exactly what you are referring to most of the time. 



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