Tonights Project - Valve Covers!
I just got back 21 vatted and bead blasted valve covers from the machine shop and was in the garage priming and painting a few of them tonight and thought I would add a picture of the correct Cadillac Blue thanks to the Bill Hirsch 1949 to 1976 Cadillac Blue Paint.
I"m a big fan of Rustoleum Engine Paint and Primer so these were first primed with Rustoleum Engine Primer, then 2 coats of Bill Hirsch Engine Paint.
Note: As most of you know, there is a nice sweet spot between about 30 minutes to 1 hr after you prime that you can apply top coat (or recoat) without the paint wrinkling. If you wait longer you really need to wait a couple of days for the paint to cure. I had went throught a lot of this when I rebuilt my engine in the spring, but now I can relax and take my time a bit more and really love the way the Rustoleum and Bill Hirsch paints go on. I had done a side by side paint test with Duplicolor and Plasticote paints as I was starting to rebuild the engine, and the Rustoleum just applies so much better and evenly.
For more info on Engine colors and the Bill Hirsch paint click on http://6364cadillac.ning.com/profiles/blog/show?id=6543066%3ABlogPost%3A19278&commentId=6543066%3AComment%3A19179
Anyway, after a day of working on our 100 year old house porch ceiling, this is what I ended up working on in the garage tonight and thought I would post a couple of pictures:
Chris Codd
I need to order some of that paint. Looks great!
Dec 16, 2012
Jason Edge
Just to add, I'll be posting more on my FB Parts Page but I've got 21 Valve covers (10 of one side and 11 of the other) primed, and ready to paint as you see in the bottom of the top picture. I'll be selling these for $40 per side or $75 for a nice cleaned, bead blasted and primed pair. If you need valve covers email me at jasonedge@nc.rr.com with ship to address.
Dec 16, 2012
Jason Edge
For those that paint items....I might also share my technique. Once you clean and bead blast them, I will blow any bead dust, residue off the valve covers with the air compressor air nozzle, then go over and wipe down with 0000 steel wool dipped in acetone, then hit it one more time with the air. You can fine sand if you prefer, but just using 0000 steel wool, and air, then priming will leave a smooth, glasslike finish.
In winter time, and given the fact I don't have a paint booth, I will have the paint pre-heated by placing them about 18" to 2 ft back from small ceramic electric heaters on the work bench, and on the parts to be painted will either jack up the heat in the garage, or take them in the house for a few hours where I keep it toasty in the winter time. I have 3 floor stand heaters I use to heat the 3 bay garage downstairs in the garage in the winter, but usually keep them about 60 degrees....so the house is warmer. When I get ready to paint I simply pop outside, paint and take parts back in heated garage to cure. I actually did the valve covers above last night and turned out really nice...as good or better than anything I've done on a summer day. In fact I find less dust and debris in the air on a cool winter night vs a summer day with pollen and everything else circling around.
Dec 16, 2012