thanks Max I should have know they were in the book! I have the service manual so will look that over and come back here if I get lost.

ok  I have a Carter. will check the book but any other advice on adjusting the mixture on the carter will be appreciated chhers

Adjustments for both Carter AFB and Rochester 4GC are in the shop manual.

thanks gents.  carb was rebuilt 5 months ago when the intake manifold was done. trying to get the climate control working properly has resulted in long extended idles as stated. I figured as russ stated it may needed some tweaking.  we did almost 100 miles on a 1/4 of a tank yesterday. not really into economy runs with the car but car ran well ... will keep an eye on it anyway..   as I have a pilots licence I have some insight into leaning mixtures as all aircraft engines give you that option inside the cockpit although its just one simple control and you do need to be careful never to over lean any engine. slightly rich is better than slightly (or highly) lean of course.

...so when AC & compressor is on your idle speed up control is working per specs? I guess I"m getting confused with the comment "trying to get the climate control working properly has resulted in long extended idles".

jason no issues with the actual AC idle up - just other issues with climate control that required me to idle the car for ages thus fouling the plugs.  that seems to be OK for now but the climate control still remains a challenge!!

car has been on the road for several months tony. carby was rebuilt 6 months ago. I have noticed black sooty marks where the car idles and as stated the plugs have fouled with black soot not oil. I will pull one off later today or tomorrow to see how they are now.  the caryby seems fine - no misses or flat spots.  

thanks David.  choke is totally off. you dont need a choke here in Aus. just start engine wait 60 seconds and away you go.

since leaded fuel left Australia a long time ago all my old cars burn black tailpipes. before that you could get the nice light grey tint which told you that you had a good mixture.

all seems ok for now. I even now have the climate control working the way it should.

just took the spark plugs out. nice light tan colour. looks light I got it right with the mixture. that was also after idling for 10 minutes finalising the climate control repair too!

In regards to the vacuum comment david yes I guess blocking right at the source would eliminate all potential sources of leaks.  if I revisit this in the future I will do that.

the comfort control system is some what of a wonder to behold when it is working right. 60s technology moving all those parts automatically with the simple turn of a dial!  I used Cadillac Tims Book to help me as I did not think the service manual quite gave the drilled down descriptions of how to fix problems.. also Tim is a great source for parts for CC system.

cheers

I always block vacuum at back of engine at intake and this is one area I disagree with shop manual a bit. David, when removing the vacuum lines I will say that if there is some "slack" and have not been disconnected in a while and seem stretched (almost always the case) I will cut off an extra 1/2" or so of line. If I really feel uncomfortable I will put one of those very small spring clamps on it like you see on the windshield washer nozzle sprayer lines.

The factory knew there would be some slight vacuum leakage in the HVAC controls. That is why they wanted the carburetor adjusted with these controls working and the A/C turned on, adding load to the engine. That way, you compensate the vacuum leakage with the idle mixture screws, otherwise if adjusted with the A/C off and disconected from vacuum, when you reattach the HVAC vacuum lines you will have a lean mixture at idle. You also need to adjust the mixture and idle with the car in drive, that is why the emergency brake line is to be removed, plugged and the brake set. Myself, I don't remove the line or use the emergency brake to hold the car, I securely scotch the wheels so the car will not move, forward or backwards, while I adjust the mixture and idle rpm. If the idle is more than 480 rpm in drive with A/C on, you can overheat the transmission when at idle, especially with the A/C off. It's all in the shop manual.

As Art stated the TV rod and Throttle rod need to be disconnected or adjusted according to the shop manual instuctions before you adjust the carburetor. The throttle plates are to be completely closed when adjusting the idle rpm and mixture.

HTH,

David

The only reason the shop manuals (63 & 64) indicate to remove hose from emergency brake diaphragm is to allow car in drive, and idling with parking brake set.  It's easy enough to pull the hose and push a thick nail in the end. 
When setting the idle speed up  for AC equipped cars the 63 & 64 shop manuals have different in structions for setting but same result in setting rpm to 900 to 950rpm with A/C On.  The carb adjustment section is a bit misleading in that it implies you set rpm to 480pm with AC on.....but if your idle speed up control is working properly you would be sitting at a forced hi rpm.  I will also say that I understand setting the carb with everything connected, but I think that is more to take into account the "vacuum load" these systems put on the car and not actual leaks.  In fact if you scan through the 1964 model year serviceman bulletins there are several bulletins posted for testing for leaks and replacing these faulty parts. I will also say that in terms of dialing in your 49/50 year old car there there are many areas  such as the check valve, NSS, power servo, hoses, emergency brake, etc  and I feel safer (at least for now) discounting the various in car vacuum components until I am satisfied it is not affecting timing, etc.   In fact if you look at the back of my 64 CDV, I still have the rear intake nipple plugged from my engine rebuild as I don't have AC reinstalled in my car yet, and have remembered to manually release the park brake. With the new engine, carb and intake mods I just did not want any additional vacuum "leaks" or "load" to influence my current  emphasis on engine performance.   In the next few weeks I will remove my entire dash and will replaced all vacuum lines, and ....getting nervous now....jump into the AC system and after that will definitely fill better about setting timing, or adjusting the carb with everything "hooked up.".

I'm seeing an older style Throttle Check Valve as we have discussed on the other threads. That 2nd loose hose would go to it.  I will post some vacuum related pictures later so you can have a visual on the check valve, etc.   For the large 2nd tank it simply T's in the line when you have that option.

Other loose hose over to the left (facing firewall) would go to the fast idle up vacuum control mounted on carb  that kicks in to force rpm up to 900-950prm when AC is on.

I've posted diagrams out of the shop manual that show you where the line out of that section goes to at this link: http://6364cadillac.ning.com/photo/63withacvacuum-1?context=latest

Depending on your carb you will have one if these two fast idle up controls:

For Rochester:
http://6364cadillac.ning.com/photo/idle-speed-up-control-diaphragm-...

For Carter:
http://6364cadillac.ning.com/photo/idle-speed-up-control-diaphragm-...

Hi Max, The red hose should attach to the nipple on the white firewall wiring harness gang plug. As Jason mentioned one black hose off the manifold fitting goes to the throttle damper actuator at the firewall and the single unattached one out of the fire wall goes to the A/C idle up actuator on the right side of the carb. Your picture does not show enough of the third hose off the manifold fitting. Where does it go, is it attached to something? As Dave mentioned you may have a vacuum tank mounted behind the left wheel well on the firewall out by the fender. If so, it should have a vacuum hose from the manifold. HTH, David

This thread has gotten confusing as we have talked about 2 years, and different vacuum circuits.

Here are some things I can say regarding your 63.  

-  You have one vacuum line that goes to the forward lamp harness connector. 
- You have one vacuum line that goes to the throttle check valve (see fig 10-8 in 1963 shop manual). This was replaced with the spring and orifice type dash pot type early in the 1964 production as noted in service manual at http://6364cadillac.ning.com/photo/1963-cadillac-serviceman-pg53?co...

-  since you have a 3rd nipple, that would go to a vacuum storage tank.  In 1964 they used a smaller tank for the AC system but in 1963, if you had a/c but no power door locks or trunk lock you would not have a storage tank.  My question is: do you have power door locks or power trunk release and is their a large vacuum storage canister over under the left hand fender as you see in this link: http://6364cadillac.ning.com/photo/100-0526-1?context=album&alb...

I will end by saying I agree with Tony in that you need to plug these vacuum nipples, get the engine running right, then feed vacuum to each of the 2 (or 3 circuits if vacuun canister present) one by one.

Not a problem, Max. we don't know what to say or ask until we just jump in and start a discussion which you did.  I should have immediately caught the fact you have 3 nipples and a 63.  63's without power door locks or trunk release (most of them!) only have 2 nipples. 

64 was different in that all AC cars had the small storage tank that feeds the comfort control transducer, and if you had the power door locks or turnk release, you have a T fitting going to small tank, that then fed to the larger tank that goes inside the cab on the far left/driver side to feed those systems. You can see illustrations of the 64 system in the illustrations I uploaded yesterday at: http://6364cadillac.ning.com/photo/64-ac-vac-7-port-with-master-swi...

That's the one.    It's the tank that allows up to 3 lock/unlock cycles per 1963 shop manual page page 16-24. Here's a picture from a 63 Cadillac with LH fender removed showing the large vacuum canister:

I accidentally changed the setting that makes most recent posts appear first (reverse chronological order) and think I like this better than everything going to the very end.  For example on this long thread I don't have to click page after page to see the most recent posts....they are up top.

I know this is something to get use to but think it will work better for us.  If the majority like the other way I can flip it back. Jason.