Hey guys,
I have installed the same Edelbrock carb and have done everything the same as Jason’s carb and intake project. In the spring and summer months the car starts, runs and idles great! In the fall and winter months on a cold start, the car starts awful and wants to die until it warms up. I have to keep my foot on the throttle until it warms up or it will idle just terrible and try to die. Once it’s warm, it runs fantastic! Whats going on here? I was thinking of removing the block of plates in the intake. Any help, ideas, info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Hi Chase,
Everything Jason and I recommended to you is the correct way to adjust that choke. As I said, it may take 2-3 tries to get it perfect. The fast idle should allow the choked carburetor to heat up (900 to 1100 rpms?) One tap after that and it should drop down. Good luck again!
Dennis DiBari
Wish I could be more help, but other than turning the chock cap just past where the butter fly closes, and the idle up screw were it releases after warming up for a couple of minutes that was about it for adjusting my 1411 Edelbrock. I did go back and do a minor change with the jets as noted in my carb help topic.
You generally have to tap the gas to get the high idle screw off the cam ridge that holds in on high idle. Same thing when cranking a car, if you just turned the key if it shut down running hot and off hi idle, it is not going to just be on high idle position. Tapping the gas was part of cranking to get gas in the carb and to get off or on high idle. Not like todays cars where you just turn a key.
Just to note, in addition to adjustment procedures for the length of time during which the choke will stay closed, there are also fine tuning adjustment procedures for the choke piston linkage and fast idle linkage. In my 1411 manual they are on pages 8 and 9. If not comfortable with making these adjustments you might find an old school mechanic or someone familiar with setting up these very popular carbs. I never had to adjust these linkage rods and only set the choke so that it stays closed for a short time before it opens up. The instructions mentions using the markings on the cap to note colder-richer or warmer-leaner settings.
Hi Chase,
I have a Rochester with a regular heat choke and it could take a few tries before you get it perfect. When cold, the butterfly should be closed, but when it starts it should crack open a bit - or it is too rich. Mark you choke setting on the dial before you start it to have a reference point. If it is too rich (too closed), then turn the dial to lean it just a bit and make sure your fast idle is set high enough to warm the engine. Again, it may take 2-3 cold mornings to reset the choke dial to get it right. When it warms up, the butterfly must be completely open so it kicks down. Hope this helps!
Dennis DiBari, Cottekill, NY
So on your car, what would be the characteristics of a cold cold start? Should the butterfly be completely closed until it starts to warm up?
Also, would a shop have those types of mufflers? They seem to be an odd size..
Not sure on the carb as mine was pretty easy to set. I guess you can always get one with a defective choke etc. As far as the exhaust smell, I would get it to an exhaust specialist ship and get it on the lift. You would think you would hear the source of a leak that strong but may be hard to hear from above. Could be very dangerous with a leak + compromised floorboard, etc.
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Posted by Chase on March 12, 2025 at 2:05pm 12 Comments 0 Likes
Hey guys,
I have installed the same Edelbrock carb and have done everything the same as Jason’s carb and intake project. In the spring and summer months the car starts, runs and idles great! In the fall and winter months on a cold start, the car starts awful and wants to die until it warms up. I have to keep my foot on the throttle until it warms up or it will idle just terrible and try to die. Once it’s warm, it runs fantastic! Whats going on here? I was thinking of removing the…
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