So I bought a sheet of paper backed makore (baku) veneer to redo the wood on my 64.  It seems like the original has a urethane clear coat.  What's everybody using for a final finish?   I have plenty extra to play with, I think I want to start with an automotive clear urethane, but what is the norm?   It says "hand-rubbed in the advertising, which would lead me to think it was lacquer, but lacquer thinner tests make me think they used urethane.  

Glue suggestions would also help, I'm starting with weldwood but is there something stronger?   I've used weldwood 1000x on laminate and fabric, but never metal to wood, it will work, but I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks in advance

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Comment by Mark S Anderson on December 28, 2014 at 11:39pm

Thanks for the bump, Russ, I've been meaning to update this thread anyway.   The glue held, is holding, but the clear coat sinks into the wood, meaning lots of clear and sanding, maybe five coats :(.    Also the wood is very difficult to place, since the contact cement grips immediately.    

So, I spoke with my guitar refinisher friend about his techniques, and he recommends a sealer to close the pores, but I forgot which one atm.   Also, I am going to make some jigs to line up the veneer to the panels, to make it foolproof.    I will share that, when I get the time for doing it, I'm pretty confident it will be much easier than my experiment above, though I'm not disappointed with the result.

Comment by Russ Austin on December 28, 2014 at 10:51pm

Bumping this up for info being shared

Comment by Mark S Anderson on July 21, 2014 at 7:42pm

Here's a tech tip for anybody doing this:  don't cut the wood until it's cleared. It shrinks about an eight from the drying of the solvent, which is why the piece has gaps all around, it fit perfectly before the urethane.

Comment by Jimmy Davis on July 21, 2014 at 7:12pm
Awesome! Where dis you get the wood? This is om my interior list too do.
Comment by Lindsay Dent on July 21, 2014 at 6:43pm

I like it. If the glue from 50 years ago holds up then you should have some choices now. Of course the trick is knowing which is the most suitable for the hot outdoor conditions.

Comment by Mark S Anderson on July 21, 2014 at 6:26pm

Thanks, I've been waiting to ask someone who may have seen one, does this look right?   I am flying blind because all of my wood is badly faded, I haven't a foggy notion what a 'correct' piece looks like.  Notwithstanding, I do like it, and it is real.   But on the pieces for real use, they'll need to be sanded a lot more to hide and fill the grain for a perfectly smooth finish, I got impatient

.  I only want to see if this will do, for now then take my time later.

So does.it look 'correct,' or am I way off?

Comment by Jason Edge on July 21, 2014 at 6:17pm

Looks nice!

Comment by Mark S Anderson on July 21, 2014 at 5:34pm

Here's what I have so far, I used the clear coat then wet sanded, then another clear coat, but it's only an experiment, from an extra piece i took off a fleetwood.  We'll see how the glue holds up to sitting in a hot car, I'm gonna lay it on the rear deck of my honda and let it bake tomorrow to test it.

Comment by Mark S Anderson on July 20, 2014 at 9:15pm

Locally, a place called Volney and Bennett lumber that specializes in hardwood.  It's Barrington, nj.  Makore isn't rare, it's used for guitars and other decorative work, I even found some on eBay, but I wanted to see the 'figure'  (The pattern in the wood) before buying.   4 x 8 foot sheet around $75, enough for three or four cars.   I stripped the wood off of a spare piece I took from a 63 Fleetwood to play around, tomorrow or Tuesday I'll have some pictures to post.   

Comment by Lindsay Dent on July 20, 2014 at 7:49pm

I have no experience to help you but didn't even consider that one would be able to buy replacement wood in any form. Mine is not too bad but the center console has been trimmed in vinyl so I guess the wood there was shot.

Can you please tell me where you got the sheet of wood material from please. 

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