booster

[Will]

have removed booster to send to booster dewey for a rebuild for the brake pedal hiss.

when booster was rebuilt 15 years ago, the shop did not install the fourth nut so it was easy to remove.

will install with all four nuts, i hope.

i guess i should clean the master cylinder while its out, sludge in reservoir bottoms but brakes worked fine.

[Will]

shop says the old drums cannot be machined further, new shoes in those drums, seems fine. No bone shaking.

[Tony and Ginny 429]

So you are saying the old drums reinstalled , worked as they should ,with new brake shoes ?

[Will]

Update.
Had garage reinstall original drums (of course they were fine), and reimburse for all labour and materials involved in the front drum fiasco. They did however do a fine job bleeding the brakes.

[Tony and Ginny 429]

To many mechanics are good for a short while ,and then they try to get you for what ever they can , if you need it or not
Often causing you next issue to return to the shop
Auto mechanics are the number one Rip Off in the country ,if you look it up
The reason I started to learn to do all I can on my cars for 45 years including brake work
The only time ,I ever gave my 64 to a shop to do my brakes ( had some extra money to spend on my ride ) I had the very same problem you are having
In my case ,I got involved and changed out bearings ,drums ,springs etc
It took me months to trouble shoot the problem as the NEW brake shoes was the last thing , I thought was the issue and a defective new part

[Tony and Ginny 429]

When you inspect the shoes ,they could be very shinny and or cracked ,as the friction material cannot handle the heat generated by 12 inch drum brakes
It is called brake glazing
My best guess based on them telling you you need rear drums now ( to fix the front brake problem , I think not ) ,is that you never needed front drums to start with
Do tell them to fix the front brakes ,that are not rightb , before you will consider replacing the rear drums
Your rear brakes SB good ,as you said ,you were stoping the car with the E brake
Then run away from this shop ,they are selling you stuff you do not need ,and doing it wrong to boot

[Will]

Hey Tony, yes shoes were changed, they will be checking it again tomorrow. Shop is trying to tell me the vibration could be the rear drums. Seems like it gets harder and harder to find a good mechanic for the old girl.

[Tony and Ginny 429]

The E brake works off the rear brakes
I am guessing the new drums are on the front
That is why ,one has nothing to do with the other ,regarding you vibration
Your problem is exactly the same as one I had ,coming out of a local shop after a brake job
Difficult problem to trouble shoot ,as you are dealing with a new part ( not suspect) that is defective
A good reason to return to the shop so they can charge you for more work they will not do right
The shoes I suggested and more money will fix the problem

[Tony and Ginny 429]

Were the brake shoes changed at the same time ,as well as the drums
That SB standard procedure
If so the brake shoes should be causing your problem
That was the case with my break job
The brake shoes had an inferior friction material ,that broke down with these larger brake drums
My solution was to change the shoes to the Raybestos brand shoes

[Will]

So... Booster installed fine (all 4 bolts in, thanks Russ), master installed fine, bench bled, took to local station for final bleeding. Here is where things went sideways. They said i needed new front drums. Now i have a car that vibrates hard under pedal braking, but stops normally using the ebrake.
They have ordered a new set of front drums. Thoughts on things to track down?
Car did not vibrate before drum replacement.
I doubt its tied to the master.
Thanks

[Will]

Ah thanks! Hadnt thought of that.