May be a simple question--What is the best way to replace the rear turn signal bulbs in the 64 deville convertible. What should be removed to get at the bulbs?

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Comment by tom servas on November 30, 2017 at 12:23pm

Jason, Thanks or the advice and especially the video. I HAVE A LONG WAYS TO GO WITH THE 64 WE ARE WORKING ON!!!

Comment by Jason Edge on November 30, 2017 at 11:19am

Tom, run a jumper cable from the tail light fixture to ground and try lights. Better yet, take an external 12 volt source such as a battery charger, extra battery, etc, and attached ground lead directly to light fixture and 12 volts to each contact and look for different in brightness. If different illumination might need to retighten light fixture to rear bumper bolts... they use 9/16" serrated flange head nuts which dig into the rear bumper end bars. Those are in turn mounted to the frame via the large bumper to frame brackets. These usually don't have any grounding issues.
With that said, the #1 culprit for dim tail lights is corroded inner material. A bright shiny inside will make the light appear much, much brighter than a corroded ones. I have seen people spray the insides with the chrome/aluminum paints, line with aluminum foil, and use the wide silver/chrome duct tape available at the big box stores. If you want a nice fixture with good inner material, shoot me an email to jasonedge@nc.rr.com

For a visual on what nice stock tail lights with good wiring and nice shiny inside can look like check out my 64 CDV at this video:
http://6364cadillac.ning.com/video/jason-1964-cdv-cornering-and-tur...

Comment by tom servas on November 30, 2017 at 10:18am

Jason, Was able to get to the bulbs behind  the taillight lens on both sides-  thx again. Need to check out the grounds next. Getting dim illumination.

Comment by Clovis on November 29, 2017 at 10:43am
Excellent help again. I forgot to order LED backup lights for my car and the diagram just reminded me while looking at it. I have dark tint on the windows and it's hard to see backwards at night.
Comment by tom servas on November 28, 2017 at 8:18pm

Jason, Thank you so much, just what we needed so we don't start breaking stuff.

Comment by Jason Edge on November 28, 2017 at 8:05pm

There are 4 sets of screws spanning 8 screws on each tail lamp lens:
- remove 2 screws holding lower red lens to aluminum ornament bar
- remove 2 screws holding ornament bar to ornament bar bracket
- remove 2 screws holding ornament bar bracket to tail lamp fixture
- remove upper and lower tail lamp screws.

Now you can remove the tail lamp lens. When I remove a tail lamp lens, if they do not gently pull away from the gasket by hand, I will trickle WD40 around the perimeter and gently pry the lens away at multiple points with flat screwdrivers. The key word is "gently"! If you just have a go at it with force you will end up contacting me or Russ for a good used lens, or going to the big box stores for a repro.

Here is the Master Parts Book illustration that might be helpful:

Comment by tom servas on November 28, 2017 at 7:26pm

TO REMOVE THE LENSE. Do we remove the 2 sets of screws and pry the plastic lense off?

Comment by Russ Austin on November 28, 2017 at 7:07pm

The lens needs to be removed. Take the reflector out, then the ornament bar, then the lens. The Socket then pulls out.

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Posted by wayne weaver on November 26, 2019 at 11:53am 0 Comments

well thank you UPS for losing the driveshaft that Russ Austin shipped me. 

however i still need a rear driveshaft section for my 63. mine has a vibration due to the bushing inside of it. its a shame because the ball and sockets in the cardian joints are perfect but it has a woble on the balancing machine. so .  still need the rear section. anyone have a good one ? is there driveshaft alternatives to use ? i am really considering an LS swap and since im fighting the driveshaft search…

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Posted by maurice lapoiinte on November 24, 2019 at 3:10pm 0 Comments

 So my 63 guide matic headlamps stay on low beam all the time. I have so far bypassed the system and everything works normal. I have been thru the trouble shooting in the manual but this is where the confusion begins.on my car when the power relay is powered I have low beam and when its not powered I have highbeam, this appears to be opposite what the diagnosis says should be correct.The wiring is all original and no wires have been mixed up.has anyone ever unplugged the 2 wire connector…

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Another advantage of the Pertronix III

Posted by Doug Scarrow on November 23, 2019 at 11:12am 1 Comment

   Having tried both the II and III I can say the multispark feature of the III offers a smoother idle . It is also easier to install .Does not require removal of the distributor

Stuck at two red (dash) lights!

Posted by Jeff Kinzler on November 3, 2019 at 10:00pm 9 Comments

I hope someone can help solve these two electrical problems that appeared one after the other.

By way of background: The car, a '64 Eldorado has very limited use. It was at a restoration shop for 15 months until last January-  that supposedly did a bunch of wiring repairs including rebuilding the gas gauge that still hasn't worked properly, and the clock that hasn't worked, and re-soldering the broken wires in the drive door. All window and seat controls appear to be…

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