https://youtu.be/BYl0_lQc6SU

just checking things as i go along,, 

as i read that altitude is a potential thing, i am at about 400 or so feet above sea level, if it matters

Sincerely

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Seems to be ok.  .  

Does that vqcuum reading look ok?

here is the link again

https://youtu.be/BYl0_lQc6SU

https://youtu.be/BYl0_lQc6SU

car seems to be running fine.. not problems in last day or so in fairly regular driving routine.

What exactly is going to 8 doing?  Is that creating the explosion a little further from top than 5?  Please explain how that would potentially improve things.  

Kim, it will advance the timing and give you a marginal increase in performance.

The only thing you need to be aware of, is that our cars run a 10:50 to 1 compression ratio, which is getting up there a bit.

Too much timing, can induce detonation with a high compression engine. A lot of folks would call it pinging..... however. "Detonation can't always be heard." So, if you up the timing and hear no pinging noises, don't be fooled into thinking its all fine.

I run the Fleetwood on 12 degrees on the marks, but my dizzy has been run up and the weight springs changed to make allowances for the 12 degrees.

Our car has pretty good punch from a standing start because of this.

Fuel will play a big part as well, here, I use nothing under a 95 octane rating and no ethanol blending. If your engine is in really good condition, yeah, have a play.

If your engine has been around the block a few times and is tired, I'd recommend staying with the factory spec of 5 degrees.

You need more problems like I need more hemorrhoids.  :-)

I agree with Tony that the Edelbrock is a wonderful carb and would work well with a Turbo-Hydramatic transmission (1964 DeVille models) which are vacuum assisted when shifting but a 1964 series 62 model will still have the TV rod to the Jetaway transmission. 

The Edelbrock on a 390 or earlier Cad motor also means you'll have to fabricate a linkage for the TV rod. If you're currently running a Rochester, you'll either need to find a Carter stainless steel shim for under the carb or block off the exhaust crossover. Over time, he exhaust gases will ruin the Edelbrock. 

Additionally, the Edelbrock is factory set-up for a small block/ big block Chevrolet and may need to have different metering rods installed for Cadillac use. This is not always the case but potential buyers should beware that they may need to do some tuning and dialing in to get the right mixture for the Cadillac engine. 

It is a wonderful bolt on alternative though that has been very successfully used on Cadillacs of various vintages.  I have one on my '57 Cadillac coupe 365 and it does a great job. It just took a little tinkering to make it that way....

Getting above my paygrade at this point in my mechaniking talking bout fabricating stuff.to run transmissions, etc.  As i want car tp run reliably, i am not opposed to new stuff on them,  but if there is no alternative than, rebuild on 63, i will do that when time comes. I do run the 93 hi test in the engine.

I did take car for ck ride w mechanic other day,   car ran perfectly, no bumps, hesitations farts or burps.  I explained everything done.  His only suggestions were, ditch the dist cap that was duralast, and replce with delco, and to change fuel filter going into the carb, after the bowl filter and replace all rubber lines.   I explained i had been advised of that prior.

He sniffed around under hood, said he didnt see anything out of ordinary.  Looked clean and ran good.  He also suggested turning timing up to 6 or 7. 

Got out of his driveway, about 1/4 mile down road, and in true car style,   it started to sputter and hesitate!!!

Did it for about 2 or three seconds,  i hit the petal hard and kept it that way, and it stopped,  hasnt done it again in about 50 miles of driving since,   a completely random problem,  no speed commonality, just happens,  that is what makes it so frustrating.

Just gonna drive it. Fix the fuel lines on my boring days,  

Get to carb rebuild on a day of full rain. 

Hi Kim,

Sometimes these old cars are a mystery and have a few bugs that work themselves out naturally.  Maybe a bit of dirt in a carb passage or a dirty spark plug or carbon on one of the valves?  I drive old cars every day, my newest commuter car being a '66 Corvair so these sort of things are commonplace, especially if I have stored one over the winter, etc.  If your mechanic gave it a clean bill of health I am guessing it is something that will work itself out within several hundred miles. With the cars today being so darn fancy and excellent, we often forget the trials and tribulations of the classics.  Have fun with it and as Tony would say....enjoy!

Yeah, this guy is about 65. 70, been a 2 car stall shop mechainic for many years.  cleanest shop you can imagine,  many of his comments were on par w what we hv duscussed  over time,  didnt chrage me for an hour of time to cruise around . Tho i offered.  He thought the car ran very well,  so,  i was happy about that even though he nvr felt the sputter,  

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