Hi there,

maybe someone can help me with this issue.

I own my 63 CdV for over 13 years now and sometimes - mostly in summer - 
when driving I hear a whining noise. 

Changed transmission fluid several times, rear bearings, front bearings, even changed the 
complete front brake system. No change. 

The sound is not depending on rpm of the motor, it's a mystery. 
And it doesn't appear every day, some months I hear nothing.

Did anyone had this problem before? 
I add an MP3 I recorded of this.

Thanks and stay healthy,
Sammy from Germany

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Your recording sounds like a pressure leak of some kind.  I would'nt give up on a vacuum leak yet.  Sometimes they are hard to pinpoint, and are in the accessories especially the monkey motion on the climate control a/c, whether it's on or not. You should be able to hear a vacuum leak while standing still, except that you may need more rpms (pressure on the engine) to wake it up. Don't overlook the pcv fittings either.  They have a way of leaking as well. Have you pressure checked your cooling system?  You said you did the brakes,  sometimes when the fluid hasn't been changed for years and the system is not fully bled, it can cause problems as well maybe air in the booster.  By the way, the reason I suggested starting fluid is because it has ether in it which excites the motor right away.  Try unhooking different lines or accessories and see it you find it that way, Good luck, I hope some of this helps!

Hi Douglas, I changed brakes and wheel bearings twice because of the whistle sound. 
As far as it doesn't appear at all while standing still and idling or rising rpm while 
standing, I still believe it's something on the rear end of the transmission. 
Maybe governor or shaft sealing or like some mentioned before the carrier bearing. 

I would also try servicing the PCV valve.  It's a very quick and simple operation.  If you are only driving in the summer it may well be stuck or tacky enough to stick in a partially open mode sometimes.  This could cause the whistle.  Take it out and clean it thoroughly with carb cleaner, let dry and reinstall.  (If it is the PCV valve, you want it taken care of ASAP as it can damage engine if stuck.)

Thanks, yes I did change it last year for other maintenance reason. 
But like the possible intake leaks this should occur while idling and not only while driving. 

The noise on your recording does not sound like a bearing related one to me.  It sounds like a pressure issue in the vacuum system or pcv as already mentioned.  You've done a lot of things, but I would redo all of the pressure related checks and clamp things off etc. as previously suggested  Don't overlook anything pressurized including the lower power steering assembly if the fluid hasn't been changed for years.  You have all of us wondering what this could be, but it's something you can hear.  Like most classic car mechanics, I have done things over many times looking for a problem only to find I did miss something before and then I finally found it!  

I agree.  I'll bet a year's wages it's either PCV or intake gasket.  Those both cause intermittent whistling and both disappear (usually) when idling.

How do you want to send the money? :-)

I agree that it is not a typical bearing sound, but in my opinion it can't be 
the intake or anything related to the carb cause it's not related to rpm.

Driving in D : WHISTLING
Driving in N: WHISTLING (like idling)
Standing still idling: NO WHISTLING
Standing still with higher rpm: NO WHISTLING

Did you hear something about the governor making such noises like 
the shop manual says?

Right.  Intake manifold leaks and sticky PCV whistle has nothing to do with RPM.  My manifold gasket leak and sticky PCV whistling were not RPM related at all.  Whistling only happened while driving, almost never while in Park.  PS:  The intake manifold gaskets are not part of the carb.  They're between the manifold and the cylinder heads.  So if you're looking for leaks in the carb you may be missing it.  Good luck.

I don't recall you mentioning your carb. You mentioned that your mechanics are not used to american cars, and I wonder if the carb has been worked on or checked out.  Remember, the thin metal shim has to be under the carb, and the 1/4 inch thick vacuum spacer between the metal shim and manifold.  Check the spacer for cracks, which they famously get around the inlet tube.  You can't fix those items with permatex or other sealants, the pressure gets too great with heat from the manifold.  Review carb and spacer replacement in your manual to make sure you have them in the right place.  i think Lee has a good point.  Even though you are probably frustrated, repeat your elimination testing until you find it.  Yes, I do the same thing myself!!

I'll give it a try ... :-)

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