Hi, been doing the break in still. At about 450 miles.

I hve noticed that when i go out, temp gets to between 1/4 and 1/2 on the gauge.  If i sit any period of time or dnt keep moving, it creeps almost to half, the, sort of quickly Drops back to just a shade over 1/4.  This sort of back and forth is currently the norm.

In the old engine, i cant think of more than two or three times, it ever went over 1/4.

Tonight, i took it out,  same deal. Stayed between 1t4 and 1/2.  I cut through town, spoke to some one about 5 or 10 min then took off.  Really didnt pay attention to engine heat as it was doing what it had been.  To get home, i have to go up a pretty steep incline so i hv to kind of get on it to get into the gear to get up.   Got about half way up and it cut out.  I quickly put in neutral and started, but it died out when i put it in gear.   I happened tp look down, and gauge was at 3/4!   So i backed it down the hill, got permission to leave it a couole hours. Will go back when it cools off.  Have no idea if that will help.

It was over 90, about 15% humidity, if that even matters.  I cked anti freeze b4 going, it was full.  No leaks of any kind.

Any thoughts were this may be going?  Is thermostat bad,   im.just at a loss and not sure how to diagnos.  When it sputtered out, it was when i hit the gas to get a lower gear, like fuel just didnt get there.

I just sort of thought the higher 1/4 to 1/2 was durme to rebuild.

Any suggestions to begin to figure it out?

Views: 214

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

A quick up date from above.  I let it cool, went bk, tried to start it.  Like not getting fuel.  I know its not out of gass.  Noticed fuel bowl at probly a quarter or shade less.   So i dropped a liyttle gas in carb.  Hoping to get things going so i can get it out pf ladys driveway.  Well. It tried to start. Then a litte fire broke out in carb.  I got it out very quickly.  Still noticed no lift in fuel bowl level.   So maybe this isnt all heat but fuel to engine.    What would you think if it now wont start.  Could there be a vapor lock.   I run the high test gas.   Could the overheat be related to no fuel?

Looks like you have a problem with the fuel pump. Check the amount of fuel coming out of the pump by loosenig the tube from pump to fuelfilter.

Well, i let it sit overnight, went to start this morning. Still no go.  Went tp the mechnic that lives down street who has been giving me theory and engine lessons on mechanics to help me drag it home.   He open hood, tinkereid w the carb.   I was in truck getting straps out, then i heard the engine turn over. It started!   He drove it home.    It was his assertion that the extreme heat of the day, at one time was 100, but 90 or so when i went out,  the heat built up during my conversatoin at idle.  A vapor lock situation occured.   He went on the explain it in some terms i coukd understand.  He felt i may need to re calibatre the choke spring as he felt it may be a little slow to react. But we left car idling for 15 minutes, no excessive heat build up,  ambient was about 75.   Bowl was filling up, running just fine.  So, feeling of looming disaster has been temp averted.  I also learned about and actually understpod mechanics of vapor lock,   at minimum, i got some education and can hopefully kno this if it happens again.   Thanks for comments and considerations.

Still working to end breakin period!  Probly gonna drive in mornings till the oppressive heat goess away, supposed to be over 100 todsy.

first off the bat,,, temps here have dropped considerabley,, 80s.. and the car temp has held at a much better, lower level,, just barel over the 1/4 mark,, creeping to the 1/3 but hasnt been near the mid line since.  it starts just fine,, runs fine,, leads me to believe the heat was the primary contributing factor, but i have picked up some of the parts ot change the fuel filter.  i will be done with the 500 mile break in in a afew days, then take it on a litlte hour to two hour excursion to bozeman and back,, see how things go,,

my neighbor down street has basically cut out the old wiring, put in new or reattached where needed.  cleaned up engine bay,  put that aluminum cover on lines to protect as you suggested,,also, put protective sleeves on a couple other places where spark lines were close to gas, like near the accelerator pump,, for the reason you siad,, if a stray spark or lot of heat builds up,, and a little gas has gone astray.  he has educated my on other things engine wise,, and on my 73 eldo convert,, he got the ac running,, damnedest thing,, i had about four controllers behind the glvoe box, i had stashed, he did whatever he did, pulled good pieces off each, tested each,  replaced on a base unit, tested for what ever ohmage or amps or  whatever you test for on those things to be able to push those roads and little motors and gears aroudn, and damn if he didnt get aht thing running,, all teh speeds on the ac unit regulator work, auto, hi low, defrost,, heat cold,, took him three days, but he got it.. never looked at a manual,, he apparently has a  unique ability that he has acquired over time and a natural understanding of electrical and mechanical things... most of his career was in the fleet mechanic shop at Yellowstone NP,, fixing diesels, dump trucks, snow machimes, bull dozers,, just about any engine the park service has,,.so his knowlegde and willingness to show me and share has been hands on helpful. he explains what he is doing, why he does it, and while i can only absorb so much at my vintage age,, its a late education i am enjoying,,, i really think he likes these old rides..

i will forward a couple pictures of the engine as he has put on the protections etc,,  give you an idea of what it looks like, im sure as it should be,, no loose wires dangling around, all taped up and clean,, actually looks good!!  

What is the temperature rating on your thermostat? If it’s lower like a 160 degree you’re more likely to se more fluctuation on the gauge.  Also I think you’re better off getting an actual reading of the coolant temperature than going by the gauge,  if the sending unit was ever replaced it may not provide the correct resistance for the gauge to give you an accurate reading.     It’s possible that the steep incline could’ve had something to do with you stalling,  did you have a full tank of fuel? could be a weak fuel pump.  

RSS

Photos

  • Add Photos
  • View All

Forum

Modern radio antenna …

Started by Mack in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion yesterday. 0 Replies

Just replaced radios for the modern radios with Bluetooth and all the dance things and wanted to share how I went around the antenna knob… I’ve installed a regular two way GM window switch in the…Continue

BOOT

Started by John Inglesby in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Marty Smith yesterday. 1 Reply

I recently purchased a new boot for my 64 convertible and was wondering how difficult it s to install. I'm not very mechanical. It looks like the chrome piece behind and at top of seats needs to be…Continue

63 Exhaust Hanger Mystery

Started by Mike Travers in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Cees de Bunje on Monday. 8 Replies

I'm in the process of installing a stainless steel single exhaust from Classic Exhaust on my '63 Coupe de Ville. I'm running into a mystery regarding my middle exhaust bracket. I have the bracket…Continue

TH400 Dipstick Tube Seal

Started by Logan Robb in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Logan Robb on Monday. 9 Replies

In my “rebuild” of the transmission, I ordered a dipstick tube seal. However, I’m not sure if the right one came or how to best install the seal. I am wondering if anyone has replaced this seal OR…Continue

Blog Posts

Loud air moving sound within carb with cleaner removed

Posted by Dave Fehrle on March 23, 2024 at 3:23pm 8 Comments

While checking my Carter carb with engine running, I took the air cleaner off and there was a very loud hissing sound of air. I placed a piece of paper over the carb and it didn’t move up or down, is this normal?

Vintage Air AC

Posted by Chase on March 21, 2024 at 5:55am 0 Comments

Hey everyone, has anybody done a Vintage Air AC/Heat setup in their car? I want to bypass the old vacuum setup and go with a Vintage Air Gen 2 model. Before I get started, does anyone have any experience with this? (Which model to go with, do’s and dont’s, etc.) It looks pretty involved. Any and all info/pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

accumulator dryer

Posted by CHRIS CARLSON on December 6, 2023 at 10:54am 0 Comments

Who rebuilds original AC  accumulator dryers for 1964 Cadillac? I have been on Classic auto air in Tampa FL wait list for over a year ,  There is one on Old air products web site that looks very similar to the original # 21-4214A but states it fits 1962 Gm cars, The one recommended for a 1964 Cadillac is half the length 21-4215A    What  is everyone using ? I would prefer to be as original as possible. Thanks

'63 Eldorado trumpet horn + 2 standard horns restoration

Posted by Les Eastling on November 15, 2023 at 10:34am 1 Comment

My son, unbeknownst to me, had all three of the horns on our 1963 Eldorado completely restored. We had recently added the Eldorado trumpet horn to the two standard horns and the sound was not very good... we had heard good ones so we knew something was not right... but there was not much we could do to get better sound from the 3 horns. 

There is a restoration service called The Horn Works who my son…

Continue

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

© 2024   Created by Jason Edge.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service