oil Pressure Sensor

[Kim K Kaiser]

over weekend, i found some oil leaking from behind the valley pan.  As some of you know, changed all that out back in oct or so and noted the oil pressure sithc was so low to the block that is seemed to inhibit a full flush connection, but didnt think much of it until i finally had some time to do so more searching for that leak,  (again from prior many post).

Anyway, i had purchased a NOS from Russ and i could see a big difference in the construction, so i decided to change the valley pan out again get a presumed flush fit and stop that leak out the bak of the valley pan..

so i got every thing changed, noted the valley pan quite leaking (yeah!)  at least for now, and went out for a ride this morning.  

as i would approach a stop sign or hit brakes to get to almost a stop,, my oil light would come on!!!! as soon as i tapped the accellearor, it would cut off immediately,,    

i thought WTF now.. 

so, i did some drive testing,,,, here is what i found.

driving,, hitting gas, hard, or intermittent or driving at 70, or just coasting from 70 to almost a stop,,,no oil light.

zipping around town, as one would typically drive,, no oil light, EXCEPT, when i almost got to stop and had to hit brake to fully stop at a sign or light,,but again, as soon as i hit accelerator, even just a tap,, the light would disappear.

Since my other sensor or since i never had a oil sensor light problem before,,, can someone shed a little light on this please..    again, this never ever happened prior to this change out, 

[Kim K Kaiser]

In re the leak,  possibly a contrubutor, however, there is still a leak, not nearly as prolofic, 

But to the sensor,,,,coupd the nos sensor be more sensivtive than the one that was in there? Thus requiring more rpm to reflect pressure,  as i didnt touch any screws on car 

Secondly, when i start the car. In idle. Light does not come on, except at startu .  But no flickering or sustained on time.

[Kim K Kaiser]

Tony,   i can only say, its not leaking as much as it did a week ago,, I know i have stopped the valley pan leak,,which, has in turn,, at the very minimum, seems to have stopped the leaking while driving,,, it only seems to leak at this point, from what i can tell,, after the car is stopped, and it seems minimal.. i may not even go after the oil pan change, if that is all that comes out at this point.  a few more rides and i will make that decision or at lest convince myself that its not leaking while i am driving,,,

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

If the car idles fine, but the light comes on when you brake to a stop, I suggest adjusting the throttle dashpot. It pops out when the idle drops low due to low vacuum.  Check the book in thew carburwetor section.

[Kim K Kaiser]

Russ,, 

my idle is about 600 in stop,,, so i started reading Jasons video on that pot thing, and googling throttle dashpot, i got an understanding of what y ou were talking about because i didnt see the term throttle dashpot so I had to google,,i did some pushing and pulling, turning of nuts and finally think i got it were the light wouldnt turn on,, i do remember turning one of those nuts for some reason,  after i got into reading about this, so hopefully, problem solved,, thanks

[Kim K Kaiser]

back to sensor,,, i thought the problem was fixed,, but,, i found out the following,

if crank up, go doodling around town,, not doing much,, the situation is fine,,, the light does not turn on,

HOWEVER/p>

if i head down the highway for a 30 minute ride,, and hit the brakes,, it does nt turn on until almost at a dead stop,

if put in neutral, light goes immediately off, if i put in park, it goes immediately off,  if i put in drive and immediately take off,, it turns off immediately,  and so the process goes as i head home, hit stop lights, the process plays over and over.

so, 

following the accelerator rod adjustment, i kept screwing that nut out intermittently,  putting in drive, hitting brake, until the oil light did not turn on,, 

that led me up to about 1000 idle and sounded the like engine was almost revving in park, so I just knew that was nt right.  so i backed it off and went on home.

so, to recap, oil light turn s on after a pretty good ride when i come to almost a dead stop, putting in neutral or park, turn its off, and hitting gas pedal turns it off,, 

i have adjusted all the way out and found while the light turns off with brake on, the engine is running too high.  

any more thoughts,,  the only thing i did the other day to this, was put in a new cotter pin, the other one looked like it was about to slip out,  

[Kim K Kaiser]

and i now have a knock!!!  at slow speed and hit pedal sort of hard,, clack clack clack,, or if i pull off a stop kind of hard,,, clack clack clack,,,  i checked my timing,,, it was 7, i run premium fuel... so,, with all the other stuff i just posted,,,up there, maybe its tied together....

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

You have an oil psi problem,. and driving the car will ruin the bearings. You are hearing a rod knock.  Maybe some debris from all the work done is stuck in the oil pressure relief valve.  Look for wear in the cylinder wall of the piston bore.

[Kim K Kaiser]

Were is the oil pressure relief valve locat3d?

[Kim K Kaiser]

Nvr mind, i found it on a prior answer in another thread.

The knocking doesnt happen everytime i do wat i described above, just sime times.

Also, could the fact that i put an oil pan on that had those baffles have anything to do with the oil not getting to the pickup tube. ? My old one did not hv that

[Kim K Kaiser]

I dnt remember, but easy enough to ck out
Thanks

[Kim K Kaiser]

I read Russ s disseration on oil pressure in an earlier post and was trying to correlate to my situation,  which occurs at very low speed, like one or two miles an hour,  right before stop and during stop while in gear.  If i adjust the accel nuts to higher idle, it occurs less, and if i get it to 800 to 900 rpm,  it does happen at all,  if i back it back down, it turns back on much sooner.

Whats odd, is at the higher rpm,  it wont do it just riding around town, but if i go down the road for 25 miles, and decide to u turn to go back, hit the brake, and then, again, at about one oe two mph, it comes on if i hv it at a reasonable idle of  650 or so.  If i set it higher, again, it wont turn on atvall.   How can an extended ride cause the diffeence on when that oil light comes on.  I cant seem to correlate it to the disseration on oil pressure.  My pressure loss is at a rolling stop versus cruise speed.  Nor does it actuvatecat all in N or P.  Is that adjustment to the nuts no longer thought to be the problem going into that dashpot?  Could that dashpot be bad?  

I tested my vaccum pressre out of that little double vaccum port on the rear block, and was steady at 19 to 21.  I dnt know if that even matters, but thought id put that in there for info.  

I guess that about explains it as best i can with the other info from the other thread,  i cnt seem to make the connection, if there even is one

[Kim K Kaiser]

I read Russ s disseration on oil pressure in an earlier post and was trying to correlate to my situation,  which occurs at very low speed, like one or two miles an hour,  right before stop and during stop while in gear.  If i adjust the accel nuts to higher idle, it occurs less, and if i get it to 800 to 900 rpm,  it does happen at all,  if i back it back down, it turns back on much sooner.

Whats odd, is at the higher rpm,  it wont do it just riding around town, but if i go down the road for 25 miles, and decide to u turn to go back, hit the brake, and then, again, at about one oe two mph, it comes on if i hv it at a reasonable idle of  650 or so.  If i set it higher, again, it wont turn on atvall.   How can an extended ride cause the diffeence on when that oil light comes on.  I cant seem to correlate it to the disseration on oil pressure.  My pressure loss is at a rolling stop versus cruise speed.  Nor does it actuvatecat all in N or P.  Is that adjustment to the nuts no longer thought to be the problem going into that dashpot?  Could that dashpot be bad?  

I tested my vaccum pressre out of that little double vaccum port on the rear block, and was steady at 19 to 21.  I dnt know if that even matters, but thought id put that in there for info.  

I guess that about explains it as best i can with the other info from the other thread,  i cnt seem to make the connection, if there even is one