Back to brakes!!!!! Head banging,,

[Kim K Kaiser]

Well, after couple hundred miles, cutting drums, replacing, everything seemed good,  no more of the vibration or super hot brakres or hub cap.     Until today. I was going to take a 60 mile ride, further observing engine from prior discussions, when i coukd start to feel the low grade pull or slight vibration.  Got a little firther up the road, 55 to 65,  got worse. Turned it around, limped it home..  felt hub,  blazing hot, same one, driver rear.  Others, were just touch above ambient  but not "hot".  Checked for leaks at brake lines, or axle, no fluids.  

Got under hood , cked MC.  No apparent fluid los since last time. Dug further,  noticed some maybe fresh fluid from hose/attachment at booster, running down to the hose that runs from booster to underneath the carb.  And it drips from there to metal brake line running to rear. Picture attached. 

Could this somehow be causing the brake on that side to stick.   Is the just a gasket of some sort I can just undo and replace? 

What are rsmifications of leak at this location, repair wise, drive wise

[Kim K Kaiser]

any thought on that leak at the PB/mc

[Kim K Kaiser]

brakes are mushy, but i did leave a little room on the setting of the shoes because i thought they may have been too tight, thus causing the shoes to stick,  

ordered part to change cylinder, see what happens after that,,

[2o93f8rdftyzj]

Kim, before you start throwing parts at the car.... sit down and diagnose the problem first, then just fix it once.

Example: From memory, these cars use 2 flexible rubber brake lines at the rear. If a flexible line is spongy, they will let fluid through under pressure from the brake master cylinder, but they won't let the fluid back through the line when the brakes are released.

Every time the brakes are used, the back pressure will hold the shoes on a little bit more and more until you end up with the problem you are having.

I'M NOT SAYING THIS IS THE PROBLEM, but if it is, a new wheel cylinder isn't going to fix it.

There is a set procedure to follow to diagnose the issue.... then repair.

 

[Kim K Kaiser]

the brake hoses that feed the cylinder are both brand new, as are the cylinders, all replaced back in dec/jan.

i will ck that procedure, before replacing the cylinder, can always return it if need be,

Repairs to rear brakes to date.

have replaced the shoes and accompanying parts, had the drums turned, swapped the drums afterwards to see if the heat grab changed sides with the drum, it did not, I changed the axle gaskets as they were torn and leaking and now, currently not leaking.  

As noted in the detail in Orig post,  i have driven, several hundreds of miles, since i loosened the brake drums some, and put on the small amount of grease on the little bump outs that the shoes rest on.  it was a tiny bit, cautious not to get it on the shoes.  Much of that several hundred miles was 50-70 mph, the speed at which this typically happens, and not one single shake, no hot shoes or trans for to the hubcap, it also happens after the speed is maintained for several miles,, but this problem just reappeared to day, again, after  many miles,, 

thought it was done when i loosened brake but apparently, not,,, 

thanks for the suggestion, 

[2o93f8rdftyzj]

Try this Kim.

Sit the bum up on jack stands and remove the offending wheels brake drum. Using two large screwdrivers, place the blade tips against the backing plate with the shanks against the break shoes. The screwdrivers will prevent too much movement. 

With a second person in the car, CAREFULLY apply a slight brake pedal pressure, just enough to get the shoes moving out.

Don't let some wombat hit the break pedal too hard, you'll end up shoes and shit everywhere.

Once the shoes have moved out maybe an 1/8 of an inch, get the assistant to release the brakes and see if the shoes return without any assistance from the screwdrivers.

You may need to do this a couple of times and once the shoes display a resistance to return, you can go to step 2.

Crack loose the brake line to the flexible hose at the closest point to the wheel.

All you should get is a slight dribble. If the fluid squirts a bit, it means the shoes should now be returned to their at rest position and the flexible hose is the culprit.

If however, all you get is a couple of drips and the shoes haven't returned as suggested, it will be the wheel cylinder. (I think it might be the flexible line)

The master cylinder picture looks as if the seals are allowing a bit of weeping to occur.

When you have been bleeding brakes and the like over recent months, the piston in the master cylinder goes deeper than normal of course and picks up all the sediment and then starts leaking or it could just be plain old getting worn out too.

My 2 cents worth.

[Kim K Kaiser]

Its wirth a try,  thanks

[Kim K Kaiser]

I'm assuming a wombat in this context would be a dumb ass!!

[Kim K Kaiser]

Kevin, 

when you say loosen the hose nearest the wheel, do you mean the end of the hose that is attached to the cylinder, or the end that is attached to the metal clip at the frame, at the top of the hose??

thanks

[Kim K Kaiser]

Yes, i have learned to do brakes through Youtube demonstrations and on the video from this site.

I will check the lines again tomorrow, see what shows up,,

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

I'm with the adjuster, or the pads on the backing plate, that the shoes ride on may be worn and hanging the brake shoe up.

The arm should be engaged with the star wheel. Try to move the star wheel one way. It should grab the arm and not move. Now rotate the star the other way, and it should click and move as the arm moves over the points on the star.

[Kim K Kaiser]

Hi Russ,, last i fooled with them, two weeks ago, while cleaning up from the axle leak, 

that metal bar arm rest on the sprocket,, my saying of down and out, means push the wheel down, shoes go out, and it clicks freely through the sprocket,  if i try to turn the sprocket up or bring the shoes in, i have to pull the bar arm out to rotate the wheel,,  so, I think what you are saying, it is working correctly,, am I right??

I will keep tinkering with it, if any other thoughts come to mind, please advise!  thanks

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

There is a left wheel adjuster and a right wheel adjuster. They spin the opposite direction.  Make sure you have the correct star adjuster for the side.

The arm should stop the star from rotating up, which shortens the star.   The arm should push down and rotate the star wheel.