63 rebuild

[Kim K Kaiser]

Looking ahead while things are out.  I was thinking of replacing the carb w a newer edelbrock or holley.  I hv seen discussiins regarding this prior.   What woukd be easist transition?  Edelbrock or holley, and what modifications woukd be required to intake.  Again. Easiest and cost time efficient chagne.  I remeber i think Jason saying he got better performance w his change over.   Any thoughts appreciated

[Tony and Ginny 429]

 Kim

Do the first engine brake in run up on the carb you now have as that carb was working correctly when you last drove the car 

Don’t fix it if it ain’t broke applies 

A  carb change now will only complicate your engine rebuild not for the better

You can consider a carb change after you put a few miles on the new engine and work out any bugs with the new engine build that often pop up and have to be worked thru

Keep in mind that after the engine rebuild the next very important thing you must do is get the engine to fire up and go immediately to 1000- 1500 RPMs for 20 minutes or so 

That Rpm allow all the metal to metal internal parts to form a smooth surface between them and is critical for long engine life in the future  

My best advice because you asked 

Later you can go to a 1406 Edelbrock carb and deal with what is required to install part 

The 1406 is a bolt on for the Carter carb but later for that story ( it is the carb I have on my 64-429 when ready later on ) 

Enjoy 

[Kim K Kaiser]

Thanks. Tony

[Tony and Ginny 429]

Kim

You are very welcome 

Glad I can help 

Enjoy 

[ian arnold]

Yes. 1406, not 1407. I did the 1407 on my stock 63, and idle is adjusted full low, and is rpm 480 . Which is speced. 

[Kim K Kaiser]

Thanks Ian,  I am just trying to plan for my re construction of my my engine rebuild.  Will keep all numbers in mind 

[Tony and Ginny 429]

Kim 

Work very very clean — and think thru all going slow 

Use the special break in lube for all metal to metal contact surfaces 

The biggest challenges are getting the points gap correct with a feeler gauge  ( if new points ) and the timing correct to get an instant fire up to 1000 RPMs 

Let someone work the key while you turn the dist ever so  very slightly for the first fire up ( prime the carb)

Using the old points will help if you can ( to avoid  having to play with that setting and install new point after the first run up on a dwell meter ) as that will leave you with only the timing to set right for it to fire  off fast 

Be prepared to lock down the dist once engine fires off 

Do research all you can about the first run up 

If the engine just pops and does not fire you will most likely need to pull the dist and rotate the rotor 180 degrees and reinstall it for the engine to fire 

Do an oil change 1000 miles after the first run up to remove metal shavings 

You will be breaking in the engine for the first 10,000 miles 

I do not go over  50 - 60 MPH during that time and when at 60 miles per hour come off the gas for a bit  a good number of times as that oils the top of the engine 

Watch your oil consumption a lot  at first  as you will go thru oil until our engines very very hard metal  rings seat to the cylinder walls 

Our oil rings are very much harder than most and take longer to seat than most for that reason 

Just some tips that I hope will be of value to you to get your new engine right ——for the long haul 

Enjoy 

[Kim K Kaiser]

Long way from there, but will copy n.paste for that point in the rebuild