Well, got it all together,, Jason, i was looking in the wrong chapter in the manual on the starter,, got that figured out.  everything hooked back up

Got it put back together, started up, and oil light turned off.. putting a hole in the gasket that the oil sump filter really helped out on that..

I only ran it for ab out 15 minutes. pulled out of my friends garage, and rode down the street,,

i noticed a knock or something tha wasnt there to start with,  I think its a leak at that driver side exhaust connection.  My reason for that is, when i pulled off the exhaust, the nut didnt come off, the hole screw came out of the block,, the nut was pretty much heat soldered on bolt,  So i dont think i was able to put the 33 pounds of torque on the connection as i was afraid of stripping out the threads on the block,,   so i got it as tight as i felt comfortable cranking down on it, but it didn't hit the 33 lbs.  

Can i get replacement screws at the part store for that??

What did i learn from all this,, hmmm,, really nice to have full car lift.  

lots to look at inside the engine, but since i didnt have to touch anything there, no problems.  

the guy at arizona parts in arizona, (the guy there was quite helpful)   told me to just soak the gasket until ready, i didn't know why, but did it for the second installation of the upper seal.. it went in very nicely with no friction until the last say 3/4 inch.  i found if i pushed the tail in, toward the shaft and pushed it would go on in.  No rubber came off the end as it did on the first installation so i assume it was flush on all edges and no problems.. 

i found out that to turn the crankshaft with plugs out,, put the big torque bar on the nut on the alternator, squeeze the belt, and turn,, crank shaft turnedmoved with no problem,, so I learned a new trick there...

i cant  say this was not easy, maybe due to my lack of experience, and fear of breaking something,, but, after about 2 weeks, i got it in.. the lift really made it easier,,

i havent noticed a leak yet, but it was a very short drive and warm up..will see tomorrow how it comes out.

It cost me three rear main seals.. first one i ruined, second one fit, and the third one was a back up if the second one went bad.  so thats about 120.   (40 a piece for best gaskets from Arizona vintage parts..

oil pan gaskets,, first one i had to remove because of my oil sump mistake and had to do again,, 22.0 a piece x 2   (44.00)

exhaust gaskets  i think the was about 20,0..   

brake cleaner, assembly grease, miscellaneous stuff about 50.00, so the out of pocket parts cost was probably 230 to 250.00.

 shop wanted 550 in labor,, i know if i used there labor rate, it was a 3000.00  labor repair,, but given the learning, the advice from everyone, i came out way better,, i will know for sure how it held tomorrow.  at least i know how to do it if i have to do it again,, God forbid...

again, thanks for all the help and patience...

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An oil pan leak would show at the back of the spinning fly wheel 

Back of flywheel would be covered in oil 

Number one in the picture 


Here is a repeat of some info I sent via email:
See pictures at bottom for reference:

OK. So at rear of oil pan area you have from top to bottom: -> A. a rear main bearing cap.
-> What goes beneath it? –> B. the oil pan gasket.
-> What is beneath that? –> C. the metal edge of the vertical transmission inspection pan. 

So what happens if B: leak? –> the oil is going to go to the rear and behind the vertical inspection pan and leak out the bottom of the lower inspection pan. (see yellow arrows in 2nd picture)

So..what can you do to get a better view of what is going on? Remove both inspection pans, clean everything very good, run the engine to the point it would leak or starts leaking and pop under and inspect. If you can leave it running then better.  Oil at that point should be seen coming out of the rear oil pan gasket, hitting the drive plate and splattering everywhere at that point since the inspect pans are not there to hold the oil back and way from the engine.
That would be my suggestion at this point.
If the oil pan is compromised on the rear edge where the rear gasket is seals it against the block it should be addressed anyway and have a nice oil pan for you to take care of that problem.
Torus Vertical Inspection Pan:
Torus Vertical Inspection pan installed, lower pan removed, showing torus and drain plug:
Back of engine showing Hydra-Matic Driveplate for reference:

Finally got to MS and mych warmer temps

  Got cAr up to change pan.  Other than pulling the exhaust apart and bending it during removal of car off trailer went ok.  Its a trip it exhaustvshop now,

Anyway i hv attached picture of old pan were it attaches to rear of block with rhe braising that i refeered to earlier.  Its just a reference shot but thought i put out there. Will take car for ride maybe tomoro if rain holds off.


 Do you have a new pan going in ?


Its on!   Kinda hard to see the old pan imperfections.  Cnt belive the cheerry bomb thing hung one of the cross bars on trailer n bent exhaust,  wat a headache

I patched it up w a exhaust flexible duct work,  hi temp jb weld,  but uts gonna need to be fixed.  

If weather hold .  I will take for test ride tomoro


Exhaust work is best left to a muffler shop from my limited experience with that repair 


i know all are sick of reading about this,,but for the first time i saw oil come out,, i put on the new pan,  not without misery, but got it on. 

got it going,,, long story short,, leaking!

got back pulled bottom inspection pan.. and turn on, while engine was till hot from the 10 mile ride and just let it idle for a bout 15 minutes.  i looked under lot of lights and could see it dripping off that alignment nipple, at a pretty good rate.  so i got close as  could, with engine running and flywheel turning.. and it seems to be coming out at the contact point of the rubber gasket on the rear of the oil pan,,just left of the center nipple dripping down draining over, going to least resistance down the nipple, and what doesnt go down the nipple, slide down the silver piece or black, behind the vertical inspection plate onto the flywheel, making it somewhat damp,, what i did see on the enclosed side of the vehicle inspection plate was very little as i think it was just some through off on the spinning part.    it was basically exactly how Jason described a few post up,,, 

it was odd though as i Looked,, if you didnt look right away, the oil would slide of the front and the back of the inspection pan and basically dry, i guess because the heat had it so thin,  and that is why in prior efforts, i never would see much if very very little on the front or back of that vertical pan, but the horizontal pan would have oil.  being that the surfaces are almost slick clean from so many cleanings after removal.  live and learn i guess...

now,, i am just guessing this is now an application/installation of oil pan error...if indeed that i what it is,, its a correct and unaltered pan.  so it should go on wo problem, but i seem to have to do something 20 times to get it right,, 

i have used the right stuff permex on top and bottom of the gasket,,  sealing both sides. on the cork/felt gasket and on the rubber inserts on each end..

i dont really know what to do differently.  I am also guessing the old pan with its imperfections was not seating as well due to the imperfections,  i just never looked at it under the above outlined circumstances..

i am going to take to exhaust shop on monday,, get that done, get rid of that damn noisy cherry bomb thing and have a quiet something put on.. and repair existing pipe itself where i bent it getting it off the trailer.. what a e fing headache.. and, order another gasket for the pan. 

SOOOOOO,,, any tips, tricks, materials ideas on how to make a good connection back there,,

im all eyes and ears...


I am sure your average muffler shop will not stock the very large stock muffler for your  year car 

Locate the  stock muffler —and have it shipped to you so the shop can install it for you 

The stock muffler is  larger longer and thinner than most mufflers— ( not a common size ) and the first muffler a shop put on my car was a problem bottoming out as it was not as thin as the stock one causing that problem 

I got my stock muffler sent to me from — USApartsupply.com —but it was a number of years ago 

Having owned a number of 60’s Cadillacs I now choose not to use the rear resonator as that WB the first part of the muffler system to be rotting out from my own experience 

My muffler pipes have been good for over 35 years as I will always let the car run for a half hour Every time I start it up to remove water condensation in the system that will rot the pipes from the inside out ( not the other way around ) 

That should help get that right for you 


Are you saying you think the the pan leaking is now your oil leak issue ? 
Not sure what you said about the alignment  nipple leaking 

Is that an oil pan gasket alignment nipple you are speaking about ?


Yes,  the long alignment one that pokes through the pan. In center  in center.   

Not really sure how a pan gasket could be leaking with Permatex used on both sides of the pan gasket 

The permatex product I use is very fast drying so sealer drying time should not be an issue you might have to be waiting a while for it to dry 

Did you follow the correct sealer drying time instructions ?

If using a silicone type sealer you have a 6 hour drying period before you run the engine 




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