I have a brand new Edelbrock 1406 carburetor the I would like to install on my 63. I have used these carbs on several vehicles that I have owned (Fords) and they work very well straight from the box. My concern is connecting the TV rod to my Jetaway tranny. Is there a way to mate the TV rod bracket from my AFB to the Edelbrock carb or do I need to get creative? I spent some serious dollars to have my tranny rebuilt and would hate to screw it up over a simple carb swap. Thanks
Just fabricate a bracket to mount the TV rod to the throttle plate. The geometry is important, as the Throttle plate needs to pull the TV rod during the entire throttle range. Notice that the stock setup has the TV rod hooked up below the pivot point of the throttle plate.
The attached picture shows the path of travel for the TV rod during acceleration. At max throttle, the TV rod is still in the green, and not arcing back towards the tranny. Once the TV rod starts to arc into the red, it is going back towards the tranny, and that is bad, as the engine is accelerating, and the trans thinks it is decelerating.
Its actually an easy mod, just measure the distance of how far the TV rod is forward and below the pivot point of the throttle plate on the stock setup. Mount a plate to the Edelbrock throttle plate and see where the TV rod hook up post sits in reference. Just gently push the TV rod back to the trans and see where the post aligns up. Drill a hole in the plate, weld a few washers to the plate so the post doesn't wobble.
My main concern has always been maintaining the proper travel of the TV rod. Thanks for the info Russ.
As I just put an Edelbrock 1406 on my 1959 390, wanted to share a picture of a transmission rod bracket made by a friend in my CLC region. Echoing advice by Russ - on the old carb, from the throttle linkage mounting hole, measure how far forward and down the trans rod mounted, that should be where to drill the hole in your custom bracket, assuming the arch when the throttle is opened is as shown in green.
That is by far the best setup I have seen. I never thought to use pop rivets, great idea.
Can you see if your friend will make more of those brackets for me?
That is too cool! I am with Russ, I would love to buy two of those as well. Your friend has created the perfect solution for our carb swap. Thanks Mike.
I would buy one if it comes available. Please keep me in mind. Thanks
Hello, here is what I end up with for attaching the transmission kick down rod to an Edelbrock carb. First, to make a custom bracket, I looked at the original Rochester 4GC off the car and measured the distance between the stock throttle and trans rod mounting points, and the arc that the trans rod travels from idle to wide open throttle. Then I realized "That bracket can be removed. I wonder if..."
Below is the Rochester bracket removed. I rotated the bracket approx 90 degrees to the left from it's original position, and aligned the now top hole in the bracket to an existing hole in the carb bracket, under the large hole. Now the stars aligned, because a hole in the bracket that previously had a screw in it (above bottom right) aligned with the throttle rod mounting hole on the car. I did need to enlarge the hole in the bracket to accept the throttle rod. Up at the top of the bracket, I attach with a bolt/machine screw that has a somewhat thin head to make sure it didn't interfere with the idle screw.
With bracket attached to the carb, I put the trans kick down rod in the conveniently located stock mounting hole. This was going too easy. Yep, the trans rod was too low and hanging up down where the engine block meets the trans. Not done yet.
So I measured how far up the trans rod needed to be in order to have clearance as it moved forward and up as the throttle went to WOT. I drilled a hole in the Rochester bracket just above the original trans rod hole, where the trans rod travel would have the max arc up and forward without any interference. The nut on the trans rod is just to take up some space.
Then it was just a few test drives to adjust the mounting position of the trans rod. It works great! Get on it and the car downshifts and takes off way stronger than it ever has since I've owned it. And it was free! (the bracket).
How did a guy with a 59 ended up on this great 63/64 Cadillac site? Here's my 64 Coupe de Ville.
Because the trans works off the carb with the hydramatic my own opinion is that it is best to rebuild the carb you have on the car now
That is unless you have the skill to make the braket you require
I would go --rather safe than sorry-- as you have a new trans as you explained
Just my 2 cents
I am a big fan of the Edelbock 1406
I have one on my 64 429 with the TH-400 trans
You will have to pull the intake manifold and block off the old choke tube on both ends
I do think you will have to rejet the carb for the plugs to burn the brown paper bag color
Its your call !!!
any idea what the replacement jet size would be? i was actually looking into upgrading my metering rods to help richen the mixture.
Tuning a carb requires extensive experience and the understanding of how a specific carburetor works.
This will be your best friend if you do not have that extensive knowledge. I even have the bungs welded into my cars. Bought 1 unit, and plug the bung when finished tuning the carb.
Ive been reading alot about how it works, and how it effects the car. The posses seems pretty simple, even if you went at it with the classic trail and error style. If only the full range tuneing kit wasnt 90 bucks lol
Pull the spark plugs and use a spark plug chart ( on the internet ) to determine the color your plugs are burnning --now
Pull you metering rods and read the numbers on them
Call the Edelbrock techs and tell them what you are trying to do ( leaner or richer )
They will tell you which metering rod numbers you need to try
The rods and jets are available at the local auto store
Run the car on the new rod for a little while --then reread the plugs
My plugs on my 64-429 were burning on the white side ( lean ) with my new Edelbrock 1406 and i had to go two sizes richer ( one at a time ) on the metering rods to get to the correct paper bag color on the plugs
The ethanol in our fuel requires about a 10% richer mixture than stock --on the stock carb
You must be Sure --you have no vacuum leaks in the intake manifold as that alone will lean your fuel mixture
The carb should be done -- dead last -after you know all other specs on the engine are set perfectly ( after a fresh tune up )
You can set the two idle adjustment screws at the front of the edelbrock or stock carb with an Expanded RPM meter ( adjust the screws until the RPMs go as they will --on that meter ) or you local gargae can put a tool in your exhaust to read the fuel mixture ( as Russ is suggesting - he has that exhaust sensor himself )
Setting the carb up correctly is a ----one time --new carb adjustment --and once correct should not be changed in the future until another new carb is installed
That should get you where you want to be