When I rebuilt my engine in 2012, I found a useful guide by the AERA (Associated Engine Rebuilders) that I went by when I broke in my engine and thought I would post here and put a link in our Help Topics page since this topic has come up a few times recently.
Here is the main link: http://gafiero.akroncdnr.com/docs/BreakIn.pdf
Here are some of the main points I picked up from it:
--> You do NOT want to use synthetic motor oil during break in because its ability to reduce wear by between moving parts actually prevents proper break in.
--> you want to run the engine on high idle at 1500 rpm at initial start-up for 30 minutes, retorque head and manifold bolts, then road test at 30 MPH periodically accelerating to 50 then decelerate rapidly, and repeat up to 10 times. This allows for increased ring pressure against the cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings.
--> For the next 500 miles you drive normally but not at continuous highway speeds. Change oil at 1000 miles and retorque head and manifold bolts. from there you can follows a regular oil change schedule.
Started by Jason Edge in Trivia. Last reply by Tony and Ginny 429 6 hours ago. 6 Replies 0 Likes
OK. We had so much fun with the last Trivia regarding the car's heater, I thought we should post another heater related question. So here goes:What item does the spec manual go out of its way to…Continue
Started by Bob Ricks in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Russ Austin 12 hours ago. 1 Reply 0 Likes
New member here so be patient with me. New owner of what I would consider a rat-rod 63 caddy. Previous owner painted everything flat black, in an obvious attempt in covering up body deficiencies. …Continue
Started by Jason Edge in Trivia. Last reply by Tony and Ginny 429 18 hours ago. 21 Replies 0 Likes
OK. Here's a new trivia. There is at least one main standard (non-option) item that one could "delete" on a new 1963 or 1964 Cadillac for a reduced cost. What is it? For extra cigars, what is the…Continue
Started by Ian Osborne in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Cees de Bunje yesterday. 1 Reply 0 Likes
If anyone here is familiar with the show "Bitchin' Rides" they started work on a '64 Eldo on the episode that aired last night (12/5). I really like the show and they build some amazing custom…Continue
Posted by wayne weaver on November 26, 2019 at 11:53am 2 Comments 0 Likes
well thank you UPS for losing the driveshaft that Russ Austin shipped me.
however i still need a rear driveshaft section for my 63. mine has a vibration due to the bushing inside of it. its a shame because the ball and sockets in the cardian joints are perfect but it has a woble on the balancing machine. so . still need the rear section. anyone have a good one ? is there driveshaft alternatives to use ? i am really considering an LS swap and since im fighting the driveshaft search…
ContinuePosted by maurice lapoiinte on November 24, 2019 at 3:10pm 0 Comments 0 Likes
So my 63 guide matic headlamps stay on low beam all the time. I have so far bypassed the system and everything works normal. I have been thru the trouble shooting in the manual but this is where the confusion begins.on my car when the power relay is powered I have low beam and when its not powered I have highbeam, this appears to be opposite what the diagnosis says should be correct.The wiring is all original and no wires have been mixed up.has anyone ever unplugged the 2 wire connector…
ContinuePosted by Doug Scarrow on November 23, 2019 at 11:12am 1 Comment 1 Like
Having tried both the II and III I can say the multispark feature of the III offers a smoother idle . It is also easier to install .Does not require removal of the distributor
Posted by Jeff Kinzler on November 3, 2019 at 10:00pm 9 Comments 0 Likes
I hope someone can help solve these two electrical problems that appeared one after the other.
By way of background: The car, a '64 Eldorado has very limited use. It was at a restoration shop for 15 months until last January- that supposedly did a bunch of wiring repairs including rebuilding the gas gauge that still hasn't worked properly, and the clock that hasn't worked, and re-soldering the broken wires in the drive door. All window and seat controls appear to be…
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