64 Deville motor mounts replace

[Mark Bartlett]

Hello I need new motor mounts the repair manual doesn't go into detail 9-40 on how to replace them ? I did them on my 1973 Coupe   However these look a little different any help from someone that has done them in the car Thanks

[Russ Austin]

Changing the mounts in the car is a difficult job. the exh manifolds are in the way of the bolts, but it is not an impossible job. Just jack the engine up to clear the mount studs into the frame. be sure to disconnect all of the linkages and the Yaw mounts on the transmission. 

I do have new engine mounts in stock if needed.    email me at [e-mail]  

[Mark Bartlett]

Yaw mounts on the trans you mean those 2 little rubber mounts on the side     I have already purchased motor mounts Thanks

[Jason Edge]

Mark, The main thing to remember when in stalling your new motor mounts is that the right passenger side goes in front of the tabs on the block while the left driver side mount behind the tabs on the block. See pictures below for reference. If you don't note this or have a reference it can be confusing when time to install.

[Mark Bartlett]

Thank you so much about the placement I probably would not have noticed that . I have got the bolts loose and that was tough . I guess the biggest part is getting the 3 smaller bolts started before setting the engine back down. One more thing should I jack one side up first or lay something across the pan and do both at the same time as I have a floor hoist

Thanks Mark

[Jason Edge]

I have never replaced them in the car, but would assume gently lifting evenly up, watching closely for clearance issues as it goes up a bit to clear the studs. It may end up that you do need to go up one side first ... slightly... then slightly tilt up the other side. 
A couple more things:

Bottom mount nut: When I part cars out I only remove the large bottom nut and washers and lift up and out ... and that is easy: Jack corner of car up, turn wheel outward on the side you are removing then attach your 3/4" socket to swivel joint, then a long extension, and remove with ratchet from bottom.  It is almost a straight shoot from the opening below in the coil tower but the swivel will make it easier. The main thing is to go up gently and don't just tilt the engine up hard on one side... the exhaust manifold will crack without too much pressure. 

3 smaller bolts and nuts at top each side: Take a good light and get a good look at the angle you will need to get to them. Remove the large bottom nut first and lift the engine up so you have more access room from below. Again I have never changed or removed the mounts with the engine in the car, but took a good look at mine this morning after reading your post. Personally, I would remove the power steering and mount and tie it back, There are only 2 bolts and slip the belt off. that is it. That will give you much easier access on the left side. I think on the right side I would leave the alternator and oil filter alone.  The are up a bit and with the oil filter it can get messy. That is my 2 cents. And the thing that you cannot type out and explain are going to be the tools use. These top bolts and nuts usually turn pretty easy  it is just getting to them. I will often use the smaller 1/4" tools with swivel joints, and extensions, and the ratchet wrenches when in a tight spot. Here is where 5 minutes of thinking which tool to use can save you 1 hour of frustration.

[Mark Bartlett]

Thanks for your input

[Mark Bartlett]

Hello everyone again  I finally got both motor mounts in there was a couple of little tricks to do to get them in. I don't know if anyone wants to know but here goes. When I started I pulled all the bolts loose to the motor mounts that I could get to then I removed the throttle linkage off the carb side pinned it back removed the yaw mounts and loosened the trans mount bolts I didn't take them out because I didn't want the whole trans and engine to maybe slide back for some unknown reason, next I jacked up the engine on the driver side enough to get the mount out you almost have to jack it up till it hits the firewall, being it is wore out and compressed  it comes out with a little twisting around, it came out . With the new one it is much taller so it wouldn't slide in there, So what I did was on the big stud that goes into frame I ground off about 3/16 of the stud and with A little bit of pushing it went in. Before you let the engine down now is the time to really clean the 3/8 nuts and bolts make sure the nuts go on the bolts easily. Then comes the fun part you start with the highest bolt first and you have to do this pretty much by braile and get them started and screw them as far on as you can get them, then hit them with a 3/8 air gun until tight.let the engine down.I did same thing for right side You may have to loosen the trans line bracket  for right side and button the rest back up and your done.

The power keeps going off and on at my house had to hurry up sorry for typos

[Mark Bartlett]

I ran out of my 15 minutes

Also see Jason's pics of motor mount placement probably saved me a lot of time if you didn't notice when you took them off

[Tony and Ginny 429]

Enjoyed the info exchange on this tread 
Jason pointed out details ( always with pictures and arrows —- just love it ) that made the repair easier to get  right the first time 

Mark thanks for the notes on the repair glad you got her done 

Good info for the library - or the help pages 

Enjoy