Can someone advise the best way to replace the parking light bulb? Thanks
Tags:
What lenses?
The front parking/turn signal bulb. I can't remove the chrome grill in front of the lens to access the bulb.
Remove the 4 screws, 2 up top & 2 at bottom and pull the chrome park light grill off.
The lens sometimes stick to the gasket. Liberally spray the perimeter with WD40 and take a small flat screwdriver and gently pry the lens off the gasket. Once it starts coming off it usually comes right off.
A trick for getting the bulb out since they can sometimes be hard to push in and turn at the same time, is to use a large rubber hose, like a 3/4" or size that is just smaller than diameter of bulb with a good length, a foot or so, so you can push onto bulb and twist and turn. Before you replace the bulb, disconnect battery (or just make sure lights are off) and take a needle nose and gently pull that center contact wire and spring back and forth to make sure it will push the contact up to bottom of bulb.
Yes I tried that but there is not enough clearance to pull out the grill. I think I have an issue with bumper alignment.
I had that with the last parts car. Take flat pry bar and and wrap flat end in cloth and wedge above the top of park light grill and beneath the headlight eyebrow trim and assembly that protrudes forward and gently lift up enough to get the top screws out and/or the grill to come out. Don't use too much pressure but you will be surprised there is usually enough movement to get access to the park light grill screws and pull it off. If you still cannot get enough room I would start with "hanger" bracket that goes from upper outer bumper end to the inside front bottom of fender. That should relieve some pressure to attempt the pry bar quick trick. If that fails you will may need to loose the large bumper bolts and drop entire assembly. My bet is the pry bar trick will work.
Here is a quick pic of the hanger bracket. There is one 1/2" hex bolt from bottom that screws up into a flat square washer. Might be easier to get to from bottom rather than removing batter. I would just try a flat pry bar first.
This may have to wait until after the GN. Thanks
Started by Ron Perry in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Dennis P. DiBari 2 hours ago. 2 Replies 0 Likes
Hello I am installing new bushings on my lower control and upper yoke arms. Does anyone have any advise or things I should be aware of in removing and installing the new bushings. Thankyou Ron PerryContinue
Started by Jason Meyer in For Sale yesterday. 0 Replies 0 Likes
Hey everybody, I have a family owned since new 64 Cadillac model 6267 Deville Convertible I have to part with. It runs strong with a 429 V8 original engine with 90,000 miles on it. Suspension has…Continue
Tags: 1964, Convertible, Original
Started by Ian Arnold in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Kurt Oct 3. 13 Replies 0 Likes
Compression test 15 years ago was good. Not a lot of miles since then. Summer car.Last year had a oil pressure issue. Found an aluminum flake had stuck open oil pressure relief valve. (Low pressure…Continue
Started by Earl R in For Sale. Last reply by Earl R Oct 2. 4 Replies 0 Likes
I bought this from a yard in Washington state. I was told it was pulled and kept inside as soon as the car came in. I was going to dye and install it in my '63 Eldorado but sold the car. Please see…Continue
Tags: Dash
Posted by Dennis P. DiBari on August 27, 2026 at 12:45pm 2 Comments 0 Likes
Hi Robert,
I emailed you more pictures for the Authenticity Manual.
Dennis DiBari
Posted by SK on June 2, 2025 at 2:20pm 2 Comments 0 Likes
Could someone post front and back photos of the 1963 right-hand kick panel with A/C?
My car didn’t come with the original kick panels, so it's a bit of a mystery to me how I should cut the backing board and carpet to fit around the A/C.
Many thanks,
-Samu
Posted by Ray Schick on August 22, 2024 at 6:25pm 2 Comments 0 Likes
I bought this seat material thinking that it’s…
© 2026 Created by Jason Edge.
Powered by