Per Tony,  i am starting a new thread on my adventures with this rear main leak,

i posted a video on a 390 engine of a rear main seal replacement but the engine was out of the car,, gave some insight as to sealing and materials etc.

One of my neighbors has a hoist,(yeah!) and has allowed me to use it,, makes it a lot easier than rolling around on the asphalt in the street and is enough higher that its not too confining under there.  I did have to pay attention to the lift points though as it seems you cant just put those lift arms wherever you want..

As of this evening, I have taken the exhaust loose, the steering loose, and the starter is out,, took about 4 hours to do that.  I guess there is nothing earthshaking to report on any of this.  Tomorrow, I will take the pan off and proceed from there.

To be clear before proceeding.

the 63 manual says to insert the bearings in there slots, do not pull off wax coating as that will aid in insertion.  I do not see any wax on my gasket, so my guess they had it on the old ones.,, 

Now, the question here is,, do i add a touch of oil or something to aid in that insertion process,, the manual does not suggest it, as i describe above, or, just insert dry, as is..

it does say apply rubber cement to cap and block mating surfaces, and gasket ends, but that is the only reference in the 63 manual regarding lubricaitng the seal for installation,,  so is that correct?? insert dry??

the you tube video says to use lubridation after insertion so it wont be dry on start up, so i plan to do that as well.

i will try to take a few photographs of things once i get the pan off,  i m sure most have seen the underside, but its my first venture in there and post them for reference.

Views: 735

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Kim 

Do follow Russ’s instructions on priming  the oil pump by removing the oil filter housing which is the easiest way if that works 

Enjoy 

Dropping the oil  pan has the same affect as draining the oil from the plug to change the oil, meaning, you should NOT have to prime the oil pump!   If you have added the correct amount of oil, have not touched the oil pump, I would run a couple of minutes. Perhaps pop the valve covers off and run some oil over the rocker arm assembly and tighten back down ... if it makes you feel better. Often when you change the oil it takes a bit before the oil light goes off. I understand being cautious but dropping the pan should never be a reason to have to prime the oil pump. Read your shop manual and it will say nothing about priming the engine under oil pan installation or rear main bearing seal replacement. 

Yes, i saw that video in my research.  Because manuql didntvsay lossen all caps  i didnt do that.  Remainder i did as the video shows, which pretty much follows the manual.  I can tell you, that is a tight fit,  loosening may be a solution

Good video. I offset my rear seal when I rebuilt the engine. As far as adding RTV sealant or not, it was interesting to hear him say his packaging said no sealant. I had to go by shop manual as my seals were part of the rebuild kit and no individual packaging or instructions. So.. I think I used RTV sealant, and offset and still get a drip leak when cold. I have tried not to do a deep dive here as Tony and Kim are 7 pages into this just putting the thing back together but it is my opinion that these rear seals continue to leak, especially when cold and the seal has shrunk a bit, because of the slight groove created by the crank journal rotating literally millions of times over 55+ years on these 100K+ mile engines. If you can wear a groove on the front on the harmonic balancer I am sure a groove can wear on the crank where the seal hits it. When I pull my engine out again I plan to do some close inspection and measuring and check out different rear seal offerings. 
The only thing I question on the video is whether to loose all main bearing caps?  Just dunno? It would basically eliminate the need for a special tool but you better be in a position to get the right torque on all those bolts and that is not always the easiest thing to do with engine in car. Anyway, it is a good video .. .always good to see the parts in hand. 

Strange that the 63 book does not mention using the tool to insert the rear main seals, but the 64 book shows the tool and gives dimensions to make it. 

When I did my engine in 17, we modded the cap to take a later/better style set up from memory. I'd have to check with Shane, but I know we run a different rear seal over standard.

Kevin 

Do pls find out what you can about the alternative rear main seal 

Enjoy 

The tool was introduced in the April 1963 Serviceman Bulletin on page 21.   This would  have been well into the 1963 model year production and long after the Shop Manual was printed. This is 1 of at least 3 entries in the SB's regarding the rear seal.
Here is the introduction of the tool:

I really was thinking about loosing all the caps all along  but was not sure 

In the car that would drop the crank a bit the more room the better 

I do like his idea about using the sealer where he did on the two cap ends 

This possible could be a further solution to solving a leak in that location 

Enjoy 

Kim 

Run the car until the oil light goes out ( per Jason ) — it will- oil has to move around the engine 

Check under the car for any oil loss you may have and report back 

Enjoy 

Kevin 

Do you have any issues with your rear main seal leaking at any time  engine is hot or cold ? 
Jasons and mine only leak  a little after cooling the engine off after use 

i am realizing that the Best Gaskets that was used in Kim’s case is an updated version of that seal most probably with a more current gasket material so that may be what you are referring to 

Enjoy 

RSS

Photos

  • Add Photos
  • View All

Forum

How much play in 63 timing chain?

Started by Ben Roberts in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Tony and Ginny 429 4 hours ago. 4 Replies

I will be installing a new chain and gears because I'm in this deep and all the forums here strongly recommend doing so.  It appears the coating is intact and I don't have to worry about that debris…Continue

Harmonic balancer holes are too shallow for the 3 bolts of puller

Started by Ben Roberts in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Ben Roberts 17 hours ago. 3 Replies

Trying to pull 1963 390 harmonic balancer.  The holes needed for the 3 bolts on the puller can only thread in 1/4” which is not enough to run an impact wrench on it.  I ran a tap to clean the threads…Continue

Current 1963/64 Cadillac Listings on eBay

Started by Jason Edge in For Sale. Last reply by Jason Edge 20 hours ago. 1 Reply

To see all 1963/64 Cadillacs Listed on eBay in the USA…Continue

Tags: ebay

G-1 differential, $150

Started by Jimmy Davis in For Sale. Last reply by Jimmy Davis on Thursday. 5 Replies

G-1 positraction differential, needs blasting and paint. $150. Pickup Huntsville AL or LTL, I recommend Averitt express. Send me zip for shipping quote.***Update- Sorry if you have tried to contact…Continue

Tags: differential, Rear, G-1

Blog Posts

1964 429 Aluminum Front Cover For Sale!

Posted by Jeff Kinzler on January 12, 2020 at 3:30pm 1 Comment

  • I wound up with an extra front cover for my '64 and offering it for sale.

Purchased from a knowledgable part supplier with thorough hands-on knowledge of 63-64 Cadillac engines, who checked the part before sending it to me. The oil pump driven gearSee S bore and the pressure relief piston bore are both .002 over and within the .005…

Continue

Looking for the Rochester Choke Tube ...

Posted by Mack on January 10, 2020 at 1:14am 3 Comments

37E244B6-71C7-4857-8D50-1BD8C48077A4.jpeg

Looking to buy the choke tube for my Rochester... anybody have one for Sale???

AC/heater for 1964 Cadillac coupe de ville

Posted by Matias J. Adrogue on January 7, 2020 at 11:11am 9 Comments

Good morning!  I am Matias Adrogue.  I bought a 1964 Cadillac coupe de ville last year and am real close to the final restoration details!  I call her “Jaws 64”.  Pics will be posted soon.  I need advise regarding a AC/heater.  It came stock in the vehicle but it does not work.  A mechanic gave me a bid of $1700 to replace and repair.  I am ready to install a new system - Vintage Air or Old Air Products from Fort Worth Texas.  I would greatly appreciate your thoughts.  I read the great write…

Continue

63 cadi conv

Posted by Merlino jean marc on December 31, 2019 at 2:51pm 0 Comments

Hello everyone 

As a European, I fell in love with Americans cars and Americana stuff.

I bought a running 63 for cheap .but there is no secret when you buy cheap ,it is big project. The car needs everything. Overtime I was able to slowing buy parts .actually  I am looking for the passenger front lower section which is becoming harder ,and harder to find

The car has a lot of issue with rust.it needs a paint,a top and I need to replace all floor pans.with patience and…

Continue

Events

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

© 2020   Created by Jason Edge.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service