rear main leak

[Kim K Kaiser]

Per Tony,  i am starting a new thread on my adventures with this rear main leak,

i posted a video on a 390 engine of a rear main seal replacement but the engine was out of the car,, gave some insight as to sealing and materials etc.

One of my neighbors has a hoist,(yeah!) and has allowed me to use it,, makes it a lot easier than rolling around on the asphalt in the street and is enough higher that its not too confining under there.  I did have to pay attention to the lift points though as it seems you cant just put those lift arms wherever you want..

As of this evening, I have taken the exhaust loose, the steering loose, and the starter is out,, took about 4 hours to do that.  I guess there is nothing earthshaking to report on any of this.  Tomorrow, I will take the pan off and proceed from there.

To be clear before proceeding.

the 63 manual says to insert the bearings in there slots, do not pull off wax coating as that will aid in insertion.  I do not see any wax on my gasket, so my guess they had it on the old ones.,, 

Now, the question here is,, do i add a touch of oil or something to aid in that insertion process,, the manual does not suggest it, as i describe above, or, just insert dry, as is..

it does say apply rubber cement to cap and block mating surfaces, and gasket ends, but that is the only reference in the 63 manual regarding lubricaitng the seal for installation,,  so is that correct?? insert dry??

the you tube video says to use lubridation after insertion so it wont be dry on start up, so i plan to do that as well.

i will try to take a few photographs of things once i get the pan off,  i m sure most have seen the underside, but its my first venture in there and post them for reference.

[Kim K Kaiser]

video   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgYWM39IcWs&t=9s

it should be noted that upon further research in to caddy daddy, this is a video on a 1959 biarittz 390,, not the 63 as i first thought,,,,i dont know if this matters, but that is a fact i wanted to convey

[Kim K Kaiser]

Can an impact wrench b used to REMOVE the bearing bolts

At 95 lbs torque, they r in pretty good

[Kim K Kaiser]

Never mind on the torque wrench.  Cheater pipe got it..

I have a larger concern.  Got the bearing out and notice it had a cut in it. Like someone out a chop saw through it.  Photo attached.

Please advise

[Kim K Kaiser]

Another picture frpm inside the cap

[Kurt]

If I remember correctly, the slot in bearing cap is normal. That is one messed up seal though. Replacing it should greatly improve your oil leak situation.

[Kim K Kaiser]

Are those slices on the inner side normal as well.  It really doesook like someone tried to slice it w a chop saw

[Kurt]

Not sure what sliced the rubber seal. When I replaced my seal several years ago, it did not have slices in it. The rubber was just hardened. I tried to find pics from then but can't. I seem to remember the slot in the bearing cap but can't say if your is normal or not. That cut does look rough in the last pic

[Kim K Kaiser]

Kurt, the slice is in the metal rib, not the seal

[Kurt]

Oh OK. I saw some fibers in the pic & assumed that was a sliced rubber seal. If the bearing cap metal is that damaged, what does the crank look like?

[Kim K Kaiser]

Appears and feels smooth

[Kim K Kaiser]

[Kim K Kaiser]

Ok. Well at one level, thats good, at second level. Not good.  May just try to find bearing, and do now while up.  Are they a hard item to find?