Last fall I replaced my rear yoke and trailing arm bushings . Now with 410 miles on them the large
rear trailing arm bushings are done . I contacted Rare Parts the maker and they were defensive and
wanted me to purchase new ones and if sent the old ones back they, upon inspection would reimburse the original seller (Old Parts) a seller on ebay. Seemed like a lot of hoops to jump through so I inquired at all the
known Cadillac Suppliers and it seems the Rare Parts is the only maker of the RP15606 bushings . Further
internet searches found this is a common problem. This has led to Dan McNarry and Russ Austin heading up making replacement arms with high tech bushings that do not distort and last. Rare Parts needs to retool and use rubber that will last . In the mean time DO NOT purchase trailing arm bushings from them with the
expectation they will last as I assure you they will fail quickly
Caddy Daddy bushings are made by Rare Parts, that's were I ordered mine from.
What can you tell us about the durability of trailing arm bushings you used and installed
The price is high and did surprise me for sure
I did not replace the yoke bushings, just control arms, as I stated earlier they are failing after 600 miles.
I am surprised because Rare Parts has a good reputation for producing quality parts.
Those large diameter rear bushings have to bear the weight of the whole car, they are obviously using a compound that is not dense enough to survive under this load.
Who makes the control link bushings, etc for Rubber the Right Way. For kicks and grins I decided to google 1964 Cadillac Control Link bushings and they were the 1st ones that popped up. I don't recall their name on this thread. Click Here to check them out.
Rubberhterightway doesn't manufacture anything. They middle man steele and metro, and maybe now do some importing. everything I have bought from them has had some other company's packaging.
Unless they have changed, it's been a couple years since my last purchase
So they're probably getting rare parts like everyone else.
Mark, that is why I asked "Who makes the control link bushings, etc for Rubber the Right Way?" The few times I have ordered from RTRW they came in Steele Rubber bags. I would assume they come from the same "crap" suppliers but I do not know that for a fact and is why I asked the question.
Just to add, I was surprised that the RTRW link had zero customer reviews. I would think if this is such a wide spread phenomenon people would be eager give their feedback.
One final thought, I was reading the installation of the control link bushings per shop manual and it said to torque the bolts to 60 ft lbs. For a large bolt this would be easy to exceed and wonder if those that have had issues have followed the torque specs. I would think there needs to be some allowance for the bushing to turn inside the link as the car flexes up and down. I wonder if over tightening these would force the bushing to lock in place causing the rubber inside to more rapidly tear apart for the circular stress as the control link flexes with the car? Just thinking aloud... but regardless I would torque to spec when installing.
The thought that the installation procedure could be a part of the problem with premature failure has occurred to me as well
Has anyone changed or had a shop change out there TAB and had that work out just as it should for them ?
The shop manuals says the TAB are serviceable and an arbor press is the tool to install them
I have no idea what an arbor press is
it would be off to the machine shop for that task in my case
I installed per the manual, with a torque wrench, tightening bolts only after car is off jacks and setting on the ground.
The more important issue would be how the last bushings were removed and how the new ones were installed in the control arm
i could see the bushing getting damaged if not done with an arbor press ( or a press ) as the manual indicates should be done
The procedures you explain are as important as well
Thanks for sharing your experience so we might get to the bottom of what is needed to correct the very short lived expensive bushing problem
Old bushings were removed by removing center rubber section (drilling) then cut a groove in the shell with a hacksaw blade, then collapse shell with hammer and punch and remove from link.
New bushings were pressed in with a ball joint press, no force exerted on the rubber part of bushing or bolt sleeve, just on the shoulder flange of bushing. Spacers were used in link to prevent collapsing and distortion while using press.
These original links are rather light weight and are the flimsiest part of this cars suspension and great care must be taken to not damage them during bushing replacement.
At those high prices and labor involved that is a real big disappointment
i do recall your prior post
Somebody is making a lot of money selling this short lived Junk !!
At this time i do not need the bushings or the rear yoke --but Real Upset when and if i do need the parts and a much better solution is not available