You can disconnect the large connector on the back of the ignition switch and hot wire the car by connecting the red (battery) to pink (ignition) wire and touching to Purple (starter). I had a switch go bad on the way to a car show a few years back and made a quick 3 way jumper to hot wire the car. Here is a video showing how simple it is: http://6364cadillac.ning.com/video/hot-wired-ignition-switches
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Not sure if you have a factory ignition switch. I've seen new/after market switches with an attachment bracket where the built in light holder goes on the stock ignition switch. I can't remember if the aftermarket style locks into that groove or not. Here is a picture of the ignition switch I just uploaded. Stock/factory one for our cars is in the right and that adaptor ring used on after market ones is on the left:
There should be a notch at the bottom where the ignition switch goes through and a ridge at bottom of the ignition switch housing that when the retaining ring is tightened locks grabs just enough so that the ignition switch does not turn. Make sure you chrome retaining ring is nice and tight. I use very long needle nose pliers to quickly tighten these up. Which light are you asking about adjusting? The ignition switch light that goes in the top casing of the ignition switch is actually very, very dim and we've discussed on the old site how it really is useless.
Adding some of the videos back from the old site. I remember the day I had to jump under the car and hot wire my CDV for the Raleigh Carolina Customs Auto Fest. I knew it was simple to do but had never been forced to hot wire the car. It's really simple and easy to add an aftermarket igntion switch if you are in a pinch.
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Could someone post front and back photos of the 1963 right-hand kick panel with A/C?
My car didn’t come with the original kick panels, so it's a bit of a mystery to me how I should cut the backing board and carpet to fit around the A/C.
Many thanks,
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