Spinning my Wheels.......
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So been trying to figure out this front brake problem I’ve been having,maybe somebody can shed some light on the problem. End of last season I changed the Brake shoes, springs, cylinders . Brake hoses, adjusters. And had the drums cut at a machine shop. Using good quality parts Raybestos Bonded shoes, bendix cylinders & Hoses.Centric springs and all seemed well, till the front end started shaking when braking at speeds over 40mph. Or coming off the expressway THAT WAS ROUND ONE.....
So the drums were not getting hot, or dragging,it seems I had them adjusted correct , I have one of those tools that measures the drum and shoes,it works very well. I took the drums to the machine shop and had them skinned again and I changed the brake shoes to a Rivited type of brake shoe all went together nicely.I also checked the front end, tie rod ends ,ball joints etc. all is good. Also took the front wheels in to get re-balanced .bought new tires last year . STILL having the same problem ..... anybody got any ideas ?
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Ray Schick on
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Centric brand, rivited type . Tried to locate Raybestos most of their type is bonded.
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Permalink Reply by 3ft7bqmb7dryo on
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Do the shoes come in different sizes? I'd have to look into the books, but there is a primary and secondary shoe.
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“The fat girl rides in the back “, that’s how I remember how the shoes go on. The larger shoe is on the back.
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I checked the book and there is a primary shoe and secondary shoe. be sure you have them on correctly. I believe the bigger shoe goes onto the back.
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I tried the Raybestos # 127PG bonded. Then I switched to Centric #11204190 riveted type.
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The Drums were machined each time
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Permalink Reply by Robert Schles on
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I had the same problem when trying to replace my brake shoes. I spoke to an "old timer" who said he would have to "stretch" the brake shoes to get them to fit properly. He told me the shaking was caused by the shoes not fully seating on the drums, connecting only at the top or bottom, when the brakes were applied. The "stretching" consisted of putting the shoes into a press to have them fit the profile of drums better. I haven't tried this method but take a look at the brake shoes to see to if there is any wear at the point they connected with the drums at the top or bottom.
Since I didn't "stretch" my brake shoes I ended up putting the old shoes back in temporarily until I could try brake from another manufacture to see if the shoes are a better fit.
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Sounds like I’m in the same boat as you Bob, I’ didn’t save the old shoes threw them out when I did the first brake job.
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Tony, I’ve tried the Raybestos shoes first the bonded ones , when I install brake shoes I put masking tape on them and install them , when I’m done installing,I just peel the tape off the brake shoes and u have no grease or dirt on them . And as for my drums there is a lot of metal on them for a few more cuts ,they are still in specs. As for the wear pattern on the brake shoes ,they seem to be using the whole shoe to stop ,not just the. Top or bottom.
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Thanks Mark, I’ll check it out
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Holy crap Tony, your wheels are loose. The book states to tighten to 30 ft pounds and back off 1/4 turn.
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Packed the bearings with a bearing packer, new grease seals and cotter pins. And tightened to specs. Tony did u look at those pictures of the Raybestos shoes I put up ?
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