Cornering Lights - Bulb replacement

[Michael Vogler]

It appears the only way to replace the Cornering Lights bulbs is to remove the entire bulb housing (in front of the front wheel wells).  Is this correct?  Or is there a better way?

Mike Vogler

[Jason Edge]

Mike. Just remove the outer chrome cornering light grill by removing the 7 Phillips screws around the perimeter then gently pry the lens out. Sometimes it comes out with gasket which is ok. Be careful not to chip or break the lens. I have found spraying a good layer of WD40 around perimeter will help on tough ones, but they will usually pull away if you are just careful. The cornering light bulb is the push in, and turn bayonet type bulb.

[Michael Vogler]

Thank you, Jason.  This will save me from crawling under the car!  The shop manual would have me removing the housing (at least as I read it).

Mike

[Jason Edge]

Michael, See bulb replacement section 49.h on page 12-38 of your shop manual.

[Michael Vogler]

Jason,

Good Morning.  All of the screws are frozen tight.  I soaked the screw heads with WD40 and around the seal, gently tapped each one  through a screw driver with a hammer.  No luck.  My concern is even if I remove the housing (to get better access to the screws where they screw into the housing) I may still have to drill out each screw.  Not a pleasant thought.

Do you have 14 (15) lens crews I can purchase (before I try to drill out the frozen screws)?

Thank you, again.

Mike Vogler

[Jason Edge]

I have plenty of those screws.  Parting cars out I have run into some stubborn screws. I would use a new #2 Phillips bit in one of those hand drivers that accepts bits. … or use a newer excellent condition #2 Phillips screwdriver. You do not want to use a worn Phillips head here. I will also say you really need to put some Hulk pressure on it as you turn. Firmly tapping the screwdriver with hammer can help loosen the threads.  If it starts to slip … stop and spray something more aggressive on the screw like PB Blaster and wait overnight. I can’t remember ever having to drill one out and have run across some tough ones. Use an excellent Phillips tip and a lot of force and the screws should back out unless the screw heads have already been compromised. If you have to drill out use cobalt bits made for hard metal.

[Jason Edge]

There are square shank screwdrivers that allow you to attach an adjustable wrench. That is about all I use at this point. That way all your energy can be for pushing in and not turning.

[Michael Vogler]

Jason,

Thank you again for the tips.  I'll give it a shot!

Mike 

[Michael Vogler]

Tony,

Thank for the advise.  I'll give it a shot.

Re: Duct tape and a wire coat hanger:  My wife is always amazed with my use of these items (notwithstanding the mocking I receiving.  It may not be pretty, but they work!)

Thanks again.

Mike

[2o93f8rdftyzj]

Most screw drivers are shaped on the handle, to allow a ring spanner to be used on them.

Depending on the size of the screw driver, it will generally be a 3/4, 13/16 or 7/8.

Simply push in hard and turn the ring spanner..... easy leverage.

Sometimes, a light tap on the end of the screw driver with a hammer first, will help too.

[Jason Edge]

Just to make sure we are on the same page, I think Kevin is referring to a box end wrench when he says ring spanner. I had never heard the term spanner used instead of wrench until I heard it from my UK friends way back. 

[2o93f8rdftyzj]

What the hell do you guys call it..... LOL

Hunk of steel, with a slight bend in each end near the ring.

3/4 on one end, maybe 7/8 the other end, in the shape of a ring.

Hence, a ring spanner..... bloody yanks LOL

Box end wrench..... about time to came to Australia for some lessons in what things are called, you bloody North Carolina hillbilly.

[Jason Edge]

I think it is the term “spanner” that would throw us NC hillbilly folk.