Hi all, I had my car in for some rust repair on pass side front fender and door. That part went ok except for the color match but my real issue is the seat switch. Are the 63 and 64 the only switches that will work?. Its always been flakey in its operation and the shop must have gotten crazy with it trying to move the seat. The toggle switch is flopping around and no longer functions. Also, when I got in to check the fuses this AM the 40 amp circuit breaker was hotter than h---. Do you think its shorted?? In the market for a switch.

Thanks for any help.

Tom B

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Tom
The grease in the motor gets hard over time and causes a problem
Open the motor clean out the old grease and regrease ( lithium grease ) and it should come back to life in most cases and be fine
Replacing the floppy switch you are looking for will help as well

The switch SB available on here by one of the part suppliers that SB by soon

Enjoy and stay safe

The 40 amp circuit breaker used in the "Horn" fuse slot is found on cars with  either Power Window or Power Seats so the overheating issue could be on either circuit. I would pop it out and see if you have continuity. I'm guessing you do or else your windows would not work assuming you have power windows. You can temporarily just put in a 25 amp standard glass, but don't operate the seats or windows but do operator the horn and see if it works. If no issues if not running windows or seats probably indicates an issues with either of the circuits.
As far as the switch, I have seen 3 reasons the center toggle becomes floppy:
1. The center plastic piece that all 3 pieces sit in breaks... usually in the middle. This piece as the be replaced.
2. the contact springs become push down over the years and do not keep the resistance on the center toggle (and other button switches). Sometimes you can remove the plastic cover and physically just pull them back up, put everything back together and they work fine.
3. Finally, I have seen the switch physcially coming out of the chrome casing becuase the tabs/wiring connector retainer that hold them in place on the sides have become disenagaged.  Usually an easy fix if you still have the tabs/wiring connector retainers by pushing the little tab back out and pushing it all back together until the tabs on engage the casing and hold it in place.

I would suggest removing the arm rest switch plate, and the window swich (just a copule of Phillips screws) and pulling it apart and inspecting it. If you don't feel comfortable pulling it apart you can send to me and and would repair no charge if I can.  I am currently out of the 63 deVille style 6 way switch found in your 63 Sedan de Ville, but can put you on my Wait List for one if no one here has one.

Thanks all. I've been in everything on this seat. Motors, rails, relay, switch, etc. I'll pull the switch out again and take a look at it. Even after cleaning and trying to tightening things up, I still had to push down on the toggle to get the  seat to move forward or back. The tilt functions never have worked properly so I figured a new switch is needed. Is the 63 and 64 switches the same? I thought I remembered the 64 is wired differently than the 63. Oh, I did get rid of the hot breaker by messing with the switch. Jason, thanks for the offer of looking at the switch. 

Thanks all.

63 and 64 switches are different due to wiring different. If you hear motor turning and not movement in the tilt (or any directions), it is probably dried grease in the transmission housing preventing the actuators to slide down the shaft and engage the gears when yo apply current and the electro-magnet kicks in. These are pretty easy to clean out and fix once transmission is removed. For details with visuals, check out this Help Page: 
Seat Transmission - Cleaning the 6-Way and 4-Way Seat Transmissions

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