stranded,,!!!

[Kim K Kaiser]

while out for a cruise and to a car show, i was heading home, car started sputtering,, would go, then no feel ing of gas, would go a while, then sputter .  i started thinking of quickest way home with out to many stops,  got about 6 blocks and it died.   

it sounded or felt like a car does when you run out of gas, but, that is not possible as I just put gas in it about 2 hours earlier, so i have half a tank, but that is the feeling,,   sputtering, then go, then sputter some more, then go,, then died,

walked home, going back in the truck see if i can get it started with some fuel in carb and sputter it home,

it is not running hot, no other particular symptom.  

would his be most likely fuel pump or blocked fuel filter,, ??

anyway, thought on the above while i go and try to get er home.. I'm just glad i did nt suffer embarrassment of it croaking at the car show as i drove through, but then again,, some one there may have known what it was,, oh well,, 

old cars i guess

[Kim K Kaiser]

ok,  will replace,  

[Kim K Kaiser]

Hi Tony,

It has been at all speeds, medium and at higher,, really has no preference when it appears.  Sometimes, on a 20 or  minute ride through town, it wont sputter at all.. I just cant seem to produce the condition.  it just sort of comes up out of nowhere.

and yes, to get past the sputter or gap in power, i usually give it a good push on the gas pedal.  The day it happened the worst was a hot day, it happened several times between each stop sign over about a 10 block stretch and  it actually cut out and and the engine died on me.  that was worst case,,  next couple of days, not one sputter,, 

[Kim K Kaiser]

Tony and all.

I have watched several rochester carb rebuild videos, doesnt look hard, just hv to take time and remember where screws and brackets and balls and pins go.

My newest questiin.  When i order rebuild kit, what is needed.  Are there multiole models?

I have attached several photos of my carburator with a tag on it.   Does this represent a sub model number?

[Kim K Kaiser]

Tony. I just found a utube video that shows how to id carberator.  There is a metal tag attached w a number on it that tells the style rochester carb.   I took that number and did a search and found several vendors that supply all the parts in a kit.

[Michael Forte]

I got one for my Rochester 4GC from Mike’s Carburetor Parts in Chehalis, WA.  PN #625.  $47.90 plus shipping.  I was happy with it.

If you call them with the number on your tag, they’ll get you the correct kit for your carb.

[Kim K Kaiser]

Thanks Mike,  that is were i got mine from.  It didnt seem to hv the fuel line to carb filter so ordered that as well.  Will see how it goes..any tips

[Michael Forte]

A few carb rebuild tips I can think of are:

read the instructions, a few times!  Remember that the kit applies to several models of similar carburetors, so there are more parts in the kit then you will need to rebuild yours.

if you’re not good at memorizing where parts go, take pics of the steps.  Linkage and TV rod adjustment are important so it’s best not to change them unless you have a shop manual and know the procedures for correct adjustment.

Choose the correct gaskets from the kit (there are several in the kit that are for other carbs).  The old gaskets will guide you, but ensure the passageways line up to the holes in the gaskets.  

Make a clean space on your work bench to do the job.  Watch for the small parts while disassembling.  Keep track of them and don’t throw anything away until you have the car running again.  

For this particular carburetor, the instructions for the accelerator pump replacement were not clear, at least not to me.  Pay special attention to them.   Your old accelerator pump, if original, is made out of leather (seriously) and will need to be cut off.  That was surprising to me, having never worked on an early Rochester before.

Do a thourough job cleaning everything.   Small particles of dirt will clog passages in the carb body and it won’t run correctly.  I like to scrape the old gasket material off with a razor blade and then soak the parts in “chem dip” carb cleaner.  Make sure it’s clean!

After the chemical cleaning, rinse thoroughly and dry.  Blow out all passages with compressed air.

Follow the needle/seat/float adjustments closely.   If you have the originalbrass floats in your carb, make sure they actually still float.  I there’s fuel inside them, there’s a hole and that’s not good!

Avoid overtightening screws.

Follow the adjustment procedures in the shop manual closely.

Other than that, I’d say the most important tip is to take your time.  If this is your first one, don’t sweat it.  Carburetors are finicky and tuning them is a dying art, but if you follow the instructions and you’ll be fine.

Bye the way, the symptoms you’ve described with your sputtering would lead me to troubleshoot the fuel supply system first.   Dirt/debris in your tank, clogged filter, fuel lines routed too close to exhaust, collapsed lines could cause the condition you described.  Also vacuum leaks/poor vacuum, and faulty points or ignition system wiring could be the cause.  Go over those before diving into the carb.  

Good luck!

[Kim K Kaiser]

Thanks Michael.

I ordered the kit to have it here if i got bored on a full rain day.  I recall the prior owner saying it probably needed re doing.. I have watched probably 3 videos on you tube related to the rochester, while basically same, they each point out different t pitfalls,, so it was helpful,, especially hanging that little part on the back instead of trying to get it to bend though,, dont know the name but, sure you know what I'm talking about.

I have also come across a gentleman here in town, has a stellar reputation as a mechanic, has a spotless shop, and about 70 yo, been in business for many years, just re built a 73 eldo here in town for a surgeon.  He has agreed to go on a ride with me next week, to feel all the little things i feel, and give me some thoughts and education.  While college educated, i am not a writer, so conveying what some things do is difficult over the internet,  AND,, i just want a person in there that knows the feel and conditions of these old cars. I told him i would pay him for the ride, as i am trying to extract info, and may not be able to get him to do  the repairs,  if i can do myself, so his time is valuable to me..

my gas tank is a bit full to drain yet.  but found the plug,,  gonna drive some today to drop the levels some,, at 13 mpg, doest take too many miles.

again, thanks for all the suggestions to everyone. i am trying to address each and every one to eliminate the problems so i can get her going for a full day of cruising..

[Kim K Kaiser]

will do,, off to store to get some wires,, did some reading on them,, mine may not be able to properly handle the pertonix ignition.. so, i will do tat first,, thanks

fuel filter is new, old glass bowl, so i can see pretty good, so far, ok

[Kim K Kaiser]

I didnt, just tge gaskets on the axle

[Kim K Kaiser]

Took old one to hydraukic shop they had all kinds of sizesl

[Kim K Kaiser]

ok,, todays events included,

1  replaced spark plug wires,, that was real fun!! and not quite sure they are real good, but car did fire up and no knocking or anything,,    now, should i re check timing now that i have new wires.??

2, FORREST GUMP moment,  while fooling with the SP wire replacement, i was fitting the things on the distributor, and i noticed the cap loose,, i thought to myself,, that couldnt be right, so i checked those lock down screws, and sure enough, one of them was not locked down!!  what a dum azz.

so, i locked it down, continued with my rewiring, and got it all hooked up and car started fine, took for long ride, mostly at 55 to 65,, NO SHAKING!!!!  just my un solicited opinion, the other day, when i had the drums off, I put some axle grease on the bump outs on the brake backer where the shoes sit and move over, saw it on one of the videos on changing brake shoes, and i knew i had not done that.. so i thought what the heck.. plus, i think my rear brakes are a bit loose, and i feel like i may have had them too tight, and they stuck on me periodically,, thus the extreme heat and brake smell on one wheel.  just a guess though, but it didnt do it today,, 

the car didnt seem to sputter at all after the wire change and the forrest gump moment with the distributor,,, ( pertonix ignition)   Does anyone think that could have caused that sputter because i didnt get any indication of it today, and the car does seem peppier, or maybe wishful thinking, but i know it didnt sputter or the little low level sputters that i was feeling.

anyway, i hope that was it, any further thoughts would be appreciated.