Door Jamb Wiring Issue

[Chris Codd]

About ten years ago I had new floors welded in and got my car back with a short. My windows had stopped working and my mechanic jumped the wiring to get them working again. The wiring was only taped together so I'm trying to fix it properly now. He connected the red wire to the white wire with the black stripe. When I tried putting the red wire back to only the red and the white/black to the white/black my window switch won't work at all. Is this a relay issue or does anybody have any ideas? (My mechanic used a blue wire extension to splice it back together so please ignore that wire).

[Kurt]

I don't have a 64 but according to the wiring diagrams you can find in "Help - Wiring & Electrical Schematics and Pictures" it looks like the white/black wire and red wire route through the cutout switch used in 64. Seems like it was wired to bypass the cutout switch.Problem may be in the switch or switch position.

[Chris Codd]

That might be it. The way it was wired up, the switches were always live. I took the cutout switch apart and it does have some corrosion. I'll clean it up and put it back together and see if that will get the window switch working the correct way again with the wires hooked back up the right way.

[Kurt]

Also check out the condition of all the wires in the door jamb.These wires are prone to breaking since they flex every time the door is opened & closed

[Chris Codd]

About 90% of the wires in the door jamb are broken and were electrical taped over. They still somehow worked with the red jumped to the white and black wire. I'm using watertight heat-shrink butt connectors on the broken wires and see how that holds up until I can replace them all eventually.

[Kim K Kaiser]

that's what was wrong w mine when my windows went wonky, I lulled that rubber boot out, undid the tape, and they had all been cut and rewired to gather and then pulled apart.   I had to cut them back and rewire them together,  one of my few, electrical successes on my part

[Chris Codd]

Fingers crossed that it works for my car as well once I get the emergency switch back in.

[Chris Codd]

Hey Tony, yes I will be putting everything back to the correct locations. I've taken the emergency switch apart and am using a rust removing gel to get everything all cleaned up. The switch had some broken tabs that stuck out from the sides, which I used JB Weld Stik to repair so hopefully that'll hold up. It might just be a crummy connection with the crimp connectors, but I'll keep messing with it until I get it right.

[Chris Codd]

Also it looks like the fuses are all good. The power seat switch still works as well. Just no windows at all from any switches at the moment.

[Chris Codd]

UPDATE - rebuilding the emergency switch and redoing (for about the 3rd or 4th time) the white wire with the black stripe seems to have worked. Everything is hooked back up to the factory locations and the switches all around the car are working. Just need to get the power vent windows working. Can hear them trying to move. Will let y'all know what happens after I finish fixing the rest of the wires.

[Kurt]

Good deal! If you can hear the power vents trying to move, they are getting power. Unfortunately the factory gears are made of aluminum and they tend to strip out over time. Replacement steel gears are availble from Hydo Electric (https://www.hydroe.com/power-vent-window-gears-pair/). It's a fairly easy job to replace them but you do have to take the motor/regulator out of the doors of course. I converted my car to power vents last year. One motor worked, the other had a stripped gear. I went ahead and replaced both gears with steel. These should last longer than me.