Well, got it all together,, Jason, i was looking in the wrong chapter in the manual on the starter,, got that figured out.  everything hooked back up

Got it put back together, started up, and oil light turned off.. putting a hole in the gasket that the oil sump filter really helped out on that..

I only ran it for ab out 15 minutes. pulled out of my friends garage, and rode down the street,,

i noticed a knock or something tha wasnt there to start with,  I think its a leak at that driver side exhaust connection.  My reason for that is, when i pulled off the exhaust, the nut didnt come off, the hole screw came out of the block,, the nut was pretty much heat soldered on bolt,  So i dont think i was able to put the 33 pounds of torque on the connection as i was afraid of stripping out the threads on the block,,   so i got it as tight as i felt comfortable cranking down on it, but it didn't hit the 33 lbs.  

Can i get replacement screws at the part store for that??

What did i learn from all this,, hmmm,, really nice to have full car lift.  

lots to look at inside the engine, but since i didnt have to touch anything there, no problems.  

the guy at arizona parts in arizona, (the guy there was quite helpful)   told me to just soak the gasket until ready, i didn't know why, but did it for the second installation of the upper seal.. it went in very nicely with no friction until the last say 3/4 inch.  i found if i pushed the tail in, toward the shaft and pushed it would go on in.  No rubber came off the end as it did on the first installation so i assume it was flush on all edges and no problems.. 

i found out that to turn the crankshaft with plugs out,, put the big torque bar on the nut on the alternator, squeeze the belt, and turn,, crank shaft turnedmoved with no problem,, so I learned a new trick there...

i cant  say this was not easy, maybe due to my lack of experience, and fear of breaking something,, but, after about 2 weeks, i got it in.. the lift really made it easier,,

i havent noticed a leak yet, but it was a very short drive and warm up..will see tomorrow how it comes out.

It cost me three rear main seals.. first one i ruined, second one fit, and the third one was a back up if the second one went bad.  so thats about 120.   (40 a piece for best gaskets from Arizona vintage parts..

oil pan gaskets,, first one i had to remove because of my oil sump mistake and had to do again,, 22.0 a piece x 2   (44.00)

exhaust gaskets  i think the was about 20,0..   

brake cleaner, assembly grease, miscellaneous stuff about 50.00, so the out of pocket parts cost was probably 230 to 250.00.

 shop wanted 550 in labor,, i know if i used there labor rate, it was a 3000.00  labor repair,, but given the learning, the advice from everyone, i came out way better,, i will know for sure how it held tomorrow.  at least i know how to do it if i have to do it again,, God forbid...

again, thanks for all the help and patience...

Facebook Facebook

Views: 1396

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Kim, my gut feeling is still with the oil pan rear pan gasket. If I have understood everything correctly the additional oil leaking has been after you removed the oil pan and replaced the seal. It is hard to imagine a new seal would cause more leaking, but could see a rear pan gasket leaking if the gasket is not seated properly. You have done the best you can and would get the shop to install the oil pan and gasket. They have probably removed and installed dozens and have a lift. They should be able to properly install the oil pan, leave inspection cover off, drive it up on the lift and see where leak is coming from. If they cannot do this I would definitely look for another shop.

I will look into shop here n ms.  Guve him all details of past efforts, and cut him loose on pan.  Really does make a difference to get it on a lift ,   

I did more rootin under car defiiteley dripping strait out of the opening around the center alignment nipple.  May hv over smeared the rtv or left a chanell in there.

Oil loss.    60 miles =  1/2 qurat low

just got giggles, i cleaned off the guide nipple, and packed some silicone on that piece and the hole that it comes out of today,, its that 90 minute stuff, so gave it couple hours ro so to dry,   i was hopeful maybe it would block off the oil trail and that it was small and simple enough to go back up in to the pan, but not really thinking it would, but felt it was worth a try,

well, i did it and it stopped the leak from coming out of and down the nipple, it just pushed it back were it is coming out around the seal were the pan meets the bottom of the big round connection on the rear of the pan.. 

i dont know if that is good or bad or is helpful info to anyone, but thats what happened,  it just moved it back some,,still going to shop in next couple weeks.

How much oil are you putting in the car?  Max is 5 quarts, regardless of the dip stick marks.

4.5 qt. Pint of zinc additive.

RSS

Photos

  • Add Photos
  • View All

Forum

Bleeding brakes

Started by Dave Fehrle in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Russ Austin 6 hours ago. 3 Replies

I have finished replacing all the rear suspension and am at the last item, which is bleeding the rear brakes. I am using the Jason Edge vacuum pump method and all went well with the rear passenger…Continue

Front grill

Started by Phillip Hill in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Dennis P. DiBari yesterday. 8 Replies

Hi everyone im currently restoring my my front grill due to some previous clown painting it with silver frost paint and doing a dodgy job I would like to know what parts of the grill are anodised.it…Continue

Getting hot when going fast…

Started by Mack in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Dennis P. DiBari on Tuesday. 6 Replies

So… I do have a few of 63 Coupes, all have same setup with carbs, Pertronix, shroud, new US Radiator radiators etc … but only one of them gets a bit hot when I am hauling faster than 60mph and car…Continue

Rainstorm out of nowhere!

Started by Logan Robb in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Dennis P. DiBari on Monday. 1 Reply

After dinner last night, we went for a quick cruise as the weather was cooler and the sun set was looking really good!Out of nowhere, a pop up shower appeared overhead and down-poured as we were…Continue

Blog Posts

1963 RHS A/C kick panel - photos needed

Posted by SK on June 2, 2025 at 2:20pm 2 Comments

Could someone post front and back photos of the 1963 right-hand kick panel with A/C?

My car didn’t come with the original kick panels, so it's a bit of a mystery to me how I should cut the backing board and carpet to fit around the A/C.

Many thanks,

-Samu

Edelbrock Carb Block off Plates

Posted by Chase on March 12, 2025 at 2:05pm 14 Comments

Hey guys,

I have installed the same Edelbrock carb and have done everything the same as Jason’s carb and intake project. In the spring and summer months the car starts, runs and idles great! In the fall and winter months on a cold start, the car starts awful and wants to die until it warms up. I have to keep my foot on the throttle until it warms up or it will idle just terrible and try to die. Once it’s warm, it runs fantastic! Whats going on here? I was thinking of removing the…

Continue

'63 Tailfin Tales

Posted by Mark Mata on February 22, 2025 at 5:00pm 9 Comments

New old stock seat material

Posted by Ray Schick on August 22, 2024 at 6:25pm 2 Comments

I bought this seat material thinking that it’s…

Continue

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

© 2025   Created by Jason Edge.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service