Lifter noise

[john chalk]

OK so six months ago when the car hit the road it had lifter noise. added some Nulon lifter free and no more noise.  now done 2500 km and there is a hint of some lifter noise again.

where is the best place to source new lifters and any tricks in replacing them?

[john chalk]

thanks for the comments.  I have done some reading on these additives and there is no way I am convinced.  the W rating for oil has no effect really in Aus. I will stick to 10w 30 or 40 and a good brand. 

[David Thomas]

Hi John, Most quality brand oil manufacturers spend vast amounts of money on research and development to formulate their oil to perform all lubrication needs in the application the oil is designed for. The additive package the oil contains is designed to be compatible with each ingredient in the recipe. I don't know of any quality oil manufacturer that would recommend adding some other blend into the mix of the original recipe, because the "oil additive" recipe may not be compatible and actually degrade the lubrication qualities of the oil, causing more harm than good. It is always best to adhere to the equipment manufacturers recommendation on viscosity for conditions expected. As Jason mentioned, a quality 10-30 motor oil is recommended for our cars. If you have many miles on the engine you could switch to a 10-40. The 10 weight designation is the cold flow quality of the oil for cold starts. The 30 or 40 designation is for operating temperature viscosity. You want a low viscosity for quick flow lubrication on start ups and enough film strength to protect the moving parts at operating temperatures.

A good quality well designed motor oil is all your engine will need, additives can and most likely will not help the oil lubricate, it may actually degrade the oil and cause more issues. Use a good engine flush, as Jason recommended, then re-fill with a good quality name brand motor oil and filter.

HTH, David

[Jason Edge]

10W30 is the viscosity rating and only recommended for certain climates per owners manual. What is your understanding that they have moved to? For more worn engines I know many go with 10W40.  This has nothing to do with the type oil, or SAE ratings, etc, just a viscosity rating.  There are many opinions on additives.  For example some people swear by Marvel Mystery Oil and others think it is useless.

[john chalk]

thanks Jason.. I can see the rocker arm assemblies there at Kanter.  So first I will flush and change the oil. just ran the engine up today and no noise today.    Also comment on oil please.  I have read that some people have moved away from the 10W30 in older bedded in/worn engines .. what do you recommend?  

also on oil and additives people may care to read and comment on this - I have spoken to people who have used it and they rave about it

http://www.motoroiltreatment.com.au/works.html

[Jason Edge]

I would run the engine flush through as indicated...maybe a couple of times. You can get lifters at many of the usual suppliers listed on our Parts Suppliers Page (Kanter, Rock Auto, etc).  Since you will need to unbolt the rocker arm assembly anyway and have some extra cash might consider getting rebuilt ones to go back on. You can get them for $180 each a Kanter and perhaps less elsewhere if you shop around. Shop manuals have step by step removal process (pag 9-21 in both 1963 & 1964 shop manuals) and show a special tool to "grab" and remove lifter at end but I've been able to that a rubber padded pliers and twist them out when the lobe has them pushed out of the socket.

[john chalk]

sorry I have read to flush the engine with oil flush then replace filter and oil and re add new lifter noise additive so that's the  first step but still keen to find out about replacing the lifters.