Ok so I started by following the instructions in the shop manual and came to the part where it says remove 2 screws that attach the panel to the dash. I can't seem to find the 2 screws. has anyone ever done it without removing the cluster assembly?
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I asked myself last night after 3 hrs of going nuts. How bad do you need this to work? Just roll down the windows you have 8 to open and they are all power. are you nuts you live in the Midwest not the dessert. I can see where someone needed to save me from myself and quit and decide I would see what everyone had to say today. Well as I thought and see from all the comments. it's one big cluster F**** mess and I am into deep now to quit and will have a big smile on my face when it hits the 90's here and when at the shows and someone asks does the Air work and I can say yes Thank you all for the input and stand by as I may need a unit if someone has one and also I have to look but may need some dash bulb sockets as someone went thru here and broke a few sockets and ripped the wires from them Knew my Dash didn't light up right at night Thanks again all
Whereabouts in the Midwest Raymond?
Northwest suburbs of Chicago town called Roselle
After I asked the question, i noticed on your profile page where you were.
My wife and I will be in Illinois in 5 months time, but we won't make it over to your part of the state..... at least, I don't think we will, unless we're lost.
If ya see a rental car cruising around ya neighborhood with a couple of lost Aussies in it, ya might have to whack the jug on.
Remove the dash pad and headlight switch. It's then a ten minute removal. I've had mine in and out twice. It will come out the top of the dash with a couple of maneuvers. The dash and switch also come off pretty easy. On the 64's you just have to watch where you put your hand removing the dash or you will crush the in dash sensor.
Our 64 Fleetwood had suffered a similar short in the A/C at some point before we got it as well.
Our fuse box took a heap of heat through it too, so it would be wise to suss that out closely. My sparky was surprised our car hadn't burnt to the ground from it.
We now run, a brand new fuse box that accepts those plug in fuses.
I also run a fusable link at the battery as a safety exercise.
Mine had the same issue at some point in its life. Burnt on/off switch, damaged fuse box and even melted ignition switch socket. I went through my electrical system and replaced all of that when I restored my interior, and will be installing a fusible link at the starter (where all the power is sourced) like later 60's cars did. Hopefully that will prevent it from happening again.
I have a fan switch. Please email me at; russ85747@hotmail.com Include your zip code for a shipping quote.
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Who rebuilds original AC accumulator dryers for 1964 Cadillac? I have been on Classic auto air in Tampa FL wait list for over a year , There is one on Old air products web site that looks very similar to the original # 21-4214A but states it fits 1962 Gm cars, The one recommended for a 1964 Cadillac is half the length 21-4215A What is everyone using ? I would prefer to be as original as possible. Thanks
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