Thank you, Jason. This will save me from crawling under the car! The shop manual would have me removing the housing (at least as I read it).
Good Morning. All of the screws are frozen tight. I soaked the screw heads with WD40 and around the seal, gently tapped each one through a screw driver with a hammer. No luck. My concern is even if I remove the housing (to get better access to the screws where they screw into the housing) I may still have to drill out each screw. Not a pleasant thought.
Do you have 14 (15) lens crews I can purchase (before I try to drill out the frozen screws)?
Thank you, again.
I have plenty of those screws. Parting cars out I have run into some stubborn screws. I would use a new #2 Phillips bit in one of those hand drivers that accepts bits. … or use a newer excellent condition #2 Phillips screwdriver. You do not want to use a worn Phillips head here. I will also say you really need to put some Hulk pressure on it as you turn. Firmly tapping the screwdriver with hammer can help loosen the threads. If it starts to slip … stop and spray something more aggressive on the screw like PB Blaster and wait overnight. I can’t remember ever having to drill one out and have run across some tough ones. Use an excellent Phillips tip and a lot of force and the screws should back out unless the screw heads have already been compromised. If you have to drill out use cobalt bits made for hard metal.
you can clip a vice grips on to the screwdriver shaft — push down by hand and Turn with the vice grips leverage it gives you after using the PB blaster rust buster for a while
Discard any damaged screw heads to prevent future issues
There are square shank screwdrivers that allow you to attach an adjustable wrench. That is about all I use at this point. That way all your energy can be for pushing in and not turning.
Spray PB blaster on the bulb and receptacle and give it time to work
Once you get to the bulb it’s about a 1/4 turn twist and up to remove it
That alone can break an old stuck bulb
At the bottom of the bulb receptacle you will find a spring action that places the bottom positive connection to the bottom of the bulb
More often than not that spring action is not working as it should so work some PB blaster and move the spring a lot to free it
You may bring it back to life or not
If you cannot bring it back fold a piece or aluminum foil to make a square to fill the gap between the top of the spring and the bottom of the new bulbs gap
If you have any side to side motion stuff a tooth pick down the receptacle and crazy glue it so it will not be rattling around
The side of the bulb and the inside of the receptacle are the neg ground connection and need to be clean metal for proper contact
They do sell new replacement receptacles on eBay but not required in my case
If for any reason there is an issue with no power to the cornering light ( like I had )
My issue was a broken wire in the steering column as the cornering lights come on and work together when using the front signal switches left and right
Just some basics :
Remember with a —-wire coat hanger — Duct tape —and Vice Grips —-you can make a Hell of a lot of thing work much better than they are working now —— LOL !
Thank you again for the tips. I'll give it a shot!
Thank for the advise. I'll give it a shot.
Re: Duct tape and a wire coat hanger: My wife is always amazed with my use of these items (notwithstanding the mocking I receiving. It may not be pretty, but they work!)
Most screw drivers are shaped on the handle, to allow a ring spanner to be used on them.
Depending on the size of the screw driver, it will generally be a 3/4, 13/16 or 7/8.
Simply push in hard and turn the ring spanner..... easy leverage.
Sometimes, a light tap on the end of the screw driver with a hammer first, will help too.