A few questions on the resistor wire, what color is it in the pic? The yellow/blue or black? And connecting to the ACC on the fuse box seems easiest way to go with the new switched wire, but where can I get a connector for the ACC?

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Arrow is pointing to the resistor wire. It is brown from the factory and the wire below it is yellow. Someone got happy with the blue spray paint.

Thank you!

Finished the Pertronix 3 install along with wire from the ACC on fuse panel to the + terminal on the coil. Nothing crazy other than removing the fuel filter for more room to remove the grommet. 
Now when starting it turns over but dies as soon as I let go of the key. Any ideas why?

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If not running wire to the pink "ignition wire" and instead running direct to fuse box make sure you are connecting to terminal with 12 volts when ignition switch is in "Run" position. When you have in far right "Crank" position you get full 12 volts from yellow wire from starter solenoid. I am on the road and looking at this from my phone (which I hate doing) but looks like you need to connect to top  right terminal Horn/Power Window connector on the fuse box. Regardless, when switch is in "Run" it needs to have 12 volts you run to the solenoid replacing the resistor wire. Use a mulitester if in doubt.   When car cranks and dies as soon as you release switch to Run position that usually indicates a broken resistor wire. In your case I am betting it is not getting a 12 volt feed.

I did remove the resistor wire from the coil, per the instructions, right? Is the ACC supposed to give a 12 volt feed?  Are you saying to not use the ACC and tap into the wire coming out of the Power/ window terminal? I will check the volts while in Run position. 
Hope the first travel day went smooth!

- The resistor wire needs to be replaced with a 12 volt source that gives a switched 12 volt source when switch is in "Run" position, but no voltage when ignition switch is in off position. The pink wire off the back of the ignition switch provides this.


- If not tapping into the pink wire off back of ignition switch and want to run to fuse box, you need to tap in where you have 12 volts when switch is in run position. A simple way to find out if you have a 12 volt source is test the wire at the coil when ignition switch in "Run" position. Turn the switch off, and you should have no voltage. I can test my fuse box when I get home after Feb 9. Bottom line is you just need to connect to a "switched" terminal. 

Thanks, again!

Finally found time to find pink wire. Does it matter which one to tap in to( see pic)? I assume that this is the resistor wire connection and one of the pink wires is from the ignition switch and the other travels to other unknown area.

Either is fine, they are on the same circuit. Just make sure you tap into the pink wire and not the brownish wire that it splices into.. that is the resistor wire.

Just FYI, after I read your question I jumped under my dash with a multi-tester and confirmed that the Accessory connector on right side of my fuse box is off when ignition switch is off, and has 12 volts when ignition switch is in run position. You should be able to use that connector for your "switched" feed.  I would do at least a quick test with a multi-tester. If no voltage in run position that might be an indication of other wiring issues.   See yellow arrows in picture below.

FYI: The Connector above it labeled Power Window as 12 volts all the time. It feeds 12 volts to horns, windows and seats and you do not want to use that connection. 

Thanks again for the help! I also tested my wire connected to the ACC on the fuse box and had no reading at coil when in Run. Will test at the fuse box to verify ACC is working correctly. 
FYI mine is a 63 and I believe you have a 64, that shouldn’t matter right?

Dave, No, you test for 12 volts at the ACC connector. If you have 12 volts there in Run, and you correctly route a wire to the coil from this connector then you will have 12 volts at the coil. If not, something is wrong with wire from this contact to the coil. 

After the Chapter zoom meeting,I worked on the fuse box and corrosion at the ACC fuse, and sure enough I was able to get 12 volts out of the wire. HUGE shoutout to Pat Westphal for the info on the corroded fuse box!

Then went to start and it turned over just once. Then I came back to it after messing around with air cleaner, it turned over and ran very rough for about 5 sec. It died as soon as I pressed the accelerator. And it has not started since and I have tried enough that the battery is now run down!

then I started looking at the fuel lines and filter. When the fuel lines were loosened, gas spewed out as if under pressure. And when looking in the carb, no gas was in it. It seems gas is getting to carb but carb is not using it! Sorry not a carb guy, so have very limited knowledge of them. 

Are the items in red circle supposed to be interlocked? And even tho the fuel line is twisted( bot that way), it has run the whole time that way.
Any ideas on what to look for?

PS thanks to everyone on the zoom call with all the great info and knowledge!

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