63 brakes/suspension pull?

[Kim K Kaiser]

radiator replaced, no leaks,, took for a 20 mile ride, temp stayed at 1/4 and when i got up to about 72, it ticked over to just a whisker past the quarter,, still no leaks, so i think i have gotten that done on my list.  furthering my evaluation of brakes or suspension. (pull to right on brake application) on 63 cdv.  

i have tightened the bolt that was loose on the bushing, that i talked abut in an earlier discussion and all the rest were ok,  still pulling to right

so the SM says check brakes,, 

I did you tube to get some idea of a starting point,   i lifted the front, turned wheels, both were free flowing.

I had a friend hit the brakes, and both brakes held tight,  so  i guess i dont need to check the brake lines for blockage.

about that time, the boy that used to have a shop says need to adjust all brakes, the star wheel,   adjust to where they are just barely off the the shoe..

test,, if not working, may need to check cylinder, so i did you tube again, some guy had a 68 or so airline brake assembly open, and was explaining and showing how the brakes worked with the cylinder, the springs  pushing out and back, the reset/adjust mechanism, so i got a handle on how they work and some of the interworking... that in mind.

would first adjusting the star wheel, be a good starting point for the next set of diagnosis on the pull, or does anyone have a better suggestion or a better diagnosing starting point to sort out the pull...

Sincerely

[2o93f8rdftyzj]

Pull the wheels and drums and blowout any dust build up inside. Ease the rubber dust boots back on the wheel cylinders and check for fluids in there. If there is, you have fluid getting past the cups themselves.

If those two items are good, then I would adjust and road test.

On our car, it would on occasion, pull left. New upper control arm bushes fixed that. Have a really good look and see what yours are like.

That's how I would go about it if it was me..... cheers 

[Kim K Kaiser]

i went to search out brakes,,found a thread about a year ago,, similar problem,

Clovis suggested that the car be driven in reverse, turned hard right, and hard left with brakes applied hard,,,to test the bushings..I did that and i found nothing out of the ordinary, the car just stopped,, i felt no pull, or lift or turn or pressure,, from my pov, it seemed quite normal,, What should i have felt if one was bad?

anyway, i will pursue from suggestions and photos from prior post to try and figure it out.

Sincerely 

[Kim K Kaiser]

I have taken the tire off, done some banging on the drum, and the case will not come off,, should i or do i need to take the cap off the center piece, exposing bearings and parts to remove the drum?  i dont see the removal description in the SM.. i dont want to expose the bearings if i dont have to,, 

what is the proper method if it appears to be stuck on after hitting with hammer

[2o93f8rdftyzj]

If you are referring to the fronts, then yes, you have to remove the hub assembly as one unit by undoing the bearing nut.

The bearing will most likely need to be repacked when you reassemble.

[Robert Alan Shannon]

Kim ,don't ever hit drums with a hammer ,that's    what mallets are for. On fronts you must remove the center cap , remove cotter pin , remove the retainer and back off the nut. bearings will be exposed ,no way around that. For backs the drum just has to be free off the brake shoes and studs.

[Kim K Kaiser]

ok,, got everything off w no problem,, man that had the old shop stopped by, said nothing looked out of whack on outward appearance.  we did find the shoes on the passenger side had a crack in both shoes.  photo attached.   while he felt the inside of drum was ok, said might not be bad idea to have them milled smooth.  otherwise,, my squeak a lot with new shoes,, Yes or no??

now, it appears that i do at least need new shoes, so would i be best served by getting the ones from Kantor,,??  

i am going to put it back to gather for now, try to adjust the brakes again, just to see if i can get rid of the pull to the right.  to see if its not the brakes,, if not then we will look at the suspension.

Any other suggestion at this point.??

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

Just check around the local stores for the brake shoes. Raybestos is good, but I get my shoes from Oriellys auto.

[Kim K Kaiser]

Ok, sounds good,, well i took her for a ride after we got every thing tested and adjusted,, wiggled the wheels looking for suspension looseness, but my friend didnt see anything, said it looked pretty normal.  

after getting it down the road, hit the breaks,, and NO PULL !!!!!! YAH !!  we worked it several times and several speeds and it worked just fine. As a car enthusiast, my buddy with the shop,, said id felt just fine.  so expect for having to do the brake shoes,, i got through the process, I appreciate the patience shown to my by you folks...

He did notice the hoses to the brakes were worn out, and cracking so he suggested they be done pretty soon as well,, but to be cautious not to let the brake fluid drain out from the master cylinder.. as it can be hard to re prime,  so thats two things off the repair list,, except to do the shoes,,

At the minimum,, should i just get the shoes and get the drum milled, or given the rather minimal cost of the drum, depending on brand, or should i get the wheel cylinder, and springs,, where is the cut off on what one would do,, i mean i could get the 450 dollar rebuild kit, but would rather not as money does become and object at some point, it does seem to be working fine as is, and nothing looked really bad or rusted, rubber on cylinder looked good and pliable,,so what is the cut off,, where do you stop

[3n49omug8n28i]

If your wheel cylinders aren't leaking then leave well enough alone. If the brake springs aren't rusted or broken then leave them alone also they don't wear out. DO replace your brake flex hoses at all corners and your front shoes. If your drums are good they too can be reused with a slight clean up on a lathe. Good luck finding a shop that still does that.

[3n49omug8n28i]

Good point Tony. You can flush your whole system out with new fluid after cleaning as Tony suggests.