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[Kim K Kaiser]

Ok,  short refresher,  last dec i relpaced starter w rebuilt from usa parts.  and even then,  after short runs where i got up to temp, if i shutvcar off, and then tried to start, it would drag heavily  a d would not start.  10 min later, it would start fine.   At the time,  i hv cleaned all grounds, all grounds properly,   i wrapped wires withe the heat tape, moved them back from exh manifold,  things seemed ok.

Last cupla weeks,  same symptom,  short rides around town, no problems, always starts, longer rides,  if i get gas,  car barely starts,  sometimes, it doesnt even click,  i can just hear a humm,  after a time or two. , it will slow turn, then start.  

So i got bk under car, notced the black wire had a crack anf i coukd see copper.  As a temp fix, i put electric tape on it,  applied the heat tape,  took out for long ride tonight, 45 min or so at 70,  [no vibrations from rear, yeah!!]

Anyway, i got out, got in,   no start.  

So what testing should i do now,   should i try to rewire from ignition key to solenpoid/starter,   replace solenoid,  what further test can i run that i didnt try in dec.    my limited knowledge says heat has something to do with this,  sustained heat, not just 2 minutes cross town, but longer rides.other than this recurring headache,  car doing good

[Kim K Kaiser]

My battery is 600 cca.  Good or bad?

[Kim K Kaiser]

Last night i put one of those reflective heat blankets on the starter, over the solenoid.  Figured cant hurt.  Pretty warm here today,  tokk out for 30 or so minte ride.  Came back,  turned over very slow.  I didnt push.    So i rememver way back, i think Jason mentioned getting a booster box.  So i wemt to mech shop here, and. He let me borrow one,  i took off again, 20 or thirty min.  Gave it a spin.  It lumped over about three times, the grudgingly started.   I put the booster on it, and while not sounding like a cold start,  it was a good bit better when i turned the switch. And then statred.  After 10 minutes,  it started fairly quickly. So I dnt know if the heat blanket helped, or the extra boost fro. The charge box gave it ghe added umph.   I did go get some 10 gauge wire, an oreilly had a solenoid, so at the least. Now. Will replace those two things.  and seed what goes.  I figure at least the wiring cant hurt anything .

[Robert Alan Shannon]

It's not good or bad , it's just not enough battery. Needs to be up about 800 -850 range. I've got a 630 CCA battery in my KIA.

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

I'm calling 600 cranking amps bad. You need as many amps to turn over a hot starter.  get the biggest battery that will fit, with the most cranking amps.

[Jason Edge]

What is the voltage when you go to crank the battery cold? Voltage when you go to restart when engine is hot?
How is your alternator? Have you had it tested? Are you sure it is charging as it should?
How is your fuel delivery? Do you use a glass filter and can you see that the fuel says full?
As far as battery rating - 750 CCA should be more than enough to crank the car over? It doesn't hurt to have a higher CCA rated battery but shouldn't be needed. 600 to 650 is marginal and if replacing battery go with something bigger.

To be honest it is hard for me to follow your threads when you and Tony get going back and forth and would just say make sure you have a good Battery, Alternator AND Starter! Again, I don't know what you have or have not replaced but would suggest that you replace all 3 if you have not already done so.

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

Yes, yes, and YES again. Kim, stop fussing around and change that darn battery to the correct cranking amps.  The more you fuss with other parts, the more you don't know what the fix is.

[04agknji9j7w1]

Kim, I looked up the site for my starter, it is: qualitypowerauto.com  . The starter bolts up just like the original on my 63. The cost was 250.00. Just to be clear, I do suggest going through the checklist of items others have discussed. I am just relaying what worked for me.

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

No link?

[Kim K Kaiser]

qualitypowerauto.com   

[Kim K Kaiser]

Jason,  yes i can understand the confusion.

Replaced   Rebuilt starter and solenoid from USAPARTS back in January.  

i have placed a reflective blanket over both as of yesterday, in hopes of heat determent.

Fuel      glass bowl is full when i get going,, 

Battery  Replaced in January   I found to day, it was cca of 600 or 650  dnt remember right now.  Napa shop here has a 850 cca that will fit my tray.

Other than what they told me at the auto part store,, battery and charging is good.. so, I'm just assuming the alternator is ok,, 

i did finally take your advice and use the battery jumper to see if it would help the start up when it was really warmed up,, as i wrote out earlier to day.   it did seem to give some added umpfh on the hot start,,,so maybe its the lower amp battery. 

i have nuisance oil leak in the oil pump that i have the car on a jack for now, but tomorrow, i will replace the battery.  If the day goes good.  i am going to re wire the wires from the starter/solenoid to the ignition key.  I have bought 10 gauge for that as that appears to be a fairly large purple and red wire that come off of there.  the yellow, looks not so big, but either way, going to go through that before pulling the replaced starter to see if any of this clears it up,  starter will be my last resort after this.

To Russ,, i have a hydromatic on the 63,, i think your note said you have one for the turbo hydromatic,  I'm guessing that that does make a difference.

[Jason Edge]

Voltage at cold start? Hot Start? Alternator Tested? Condition? This is why I tend not to jump in on your threads. I ask specific questions and never get an answer. If alternator is not charging the battery, the battery will run down to a point it is harder to crank hot but may still be crank when engine is cold. Again, make sure Battery, Alternator and Starter are all in top shape. You can have a 1000 CCA battery and will be useless if the alternator is not charging it. May not be your issue, but the Alternator is one of the main 3 things I look at when a car will not start. 

CHECK YOUR VOLTAGE:
 - Before cranking the car while it is cold, check the battery voltage. A fully charged battery should be at 12.6 volts or more.
- Check battery voltage while car is running. a running car with a properly operating voltage regulator and alternator should show a voltage reading at 13.5 to 14.5 volts
-  Run car for a while with headlights on.. maybe 5 to 10 minutes. Turn engine off and while hot, check battery voltage. It should be at least 12.6 volts.  If battery is below 12.6 volts it can point to a bad alternator, or defective battery with a dead cell or other issues. Most auto parts stores can check your battery and alternator for free. You have replaced the starter once, and the battery, albeit with a smaller CCA rated one, so make sure the alternator is charging as it should!  If you need an alternator I have a few new Duralast 7122 alternators sourced through Auto Zone for $5 t0hat I have been selling to customers for 2 decades.

[Kim K Kaiser]

ok, will do