Well, got it all together,, Jason, i was looking in the wrong chapter in the manual on the starter,, got that figured out.  everything hooked back up

Got it put back together, started up, and oil light turned off.. putting a hole in the gasket that the oil sump filter really helped out on that..

I only ran it for ab out 15 minutes. pulled out of my friends garage, and rode down the street,,

i noticed a knock or something tha wasnt there to start with,  I think its a leak at that driver side exhaust connection.  My reason for that is, when i pulled off the exhaust, the nut didnt come off, the hole screw came out of the block,, the nut was pretty much heat soldered on bolt,  So i dont think i was able to put the 33 pounds of torque on the connection as i was afraid of stripping out the threads on the block,,   so i got it as tight as i felt comfortable cranking down on it, but it didn't hit the 33 lbs.  

Can i get replacement screws at the part store for that??

What did i learn from all this,, hmmm,, really nice to have full car lift.  

lots to look at inside the engine, but since i didnt have to touch anything there, no problems.  

the guy at arizona parts in arizona, (the guy there was quite helpful)   told me to just soak the gasket until ready, i didn't know why, but did it for the second installation of the upper seal.. it went in very nicely with no friction until the last say 3/4 inch.  i found if i pushed the tail in, toward the shaft and pushed it would go on in.  No rubber came off the end as it did on the first installation so i assume it was flush on all edges and no problems.. 

i found out that to turn the crankshaft with plugs out,, put the big torque bar on the nut on the alternator, squeeze the belt, and turn,, crank shaft turnedmoved with no problem,, so I learned a new trick there...

i cant  say this was not easy, maybe due to my lack of experience, and fear of breaking something,, but, after about 2 weeks, i got it in.. the lift really made it easier,,

i havent noticed a leak yet, but it was a very short drive and warm up..will see tomorrow how it comes out.

It cost me three rear main seals.. first one i ruined, second one fit, and the third one was a back up if the second one went bad.  so thats about 120.   (40 a piece for best gaskets from Arizona vintage parts..

oil pan gaskets,, first one i had to remove because of my oil sump mistake and had to do again,, 22.0 a piece x 2   (44.00)

exhaust gaskets  i think the was about 20,0..   

brake cleaner, assembly grease, miscellaneous stuff about 50.00, so the out of pocket parts cost was probably 230 to 250.00.

 shop wanted 550 in labor,, i know if i used there labor rate, it was a 3000.00  labor repair,, but given the learning, the advice from everyone, i came out way better,, i will know for sure how it held tomorrow.  at least i know how to do it if i have to do it again,, God forbid...

again, thanks for all the help and patience...

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From an engine function pov.  Should the potential for a leak from the seal be the same whether its running at idle or running down the road?  The crankshqft is spinning regardless of moving or idle.  .  Its easir to see were its coming from if its not blowing back at 60 mph, if its all the same moving or idle

If the motor is leaking oil, it should leak any time it is running. The only difference would be, higher RPM will equal higher oil pressure and volume flow, making the leak flow at a faster rate if it is a pressure leak. To check the main seal, put the car on jack stands or a lift. Remove the flywheel cover and observe the area around the main while the motor is running. Be sure the vehicle is secure so there is no way it can roll or move while you are under the car.

Your talking about the semi circular pan on bottom, behind the oil pan, correct?  Thanks for clarifying idling vs higher rpm leak potential

Yeah,  looks like a table saw blade.   I will get under there probly tomorrow.  Thanks forthe tips

i got back under car to see if i can pinpoint leak, i took off the inspection plate, ran car, no indication of leak at idle on side of flywheel compartment wall.  put it back together, decided to ride, took it for about 15 to 20 miles.60 to 70 mph. at midway point, i stopped look ed underneath, and it was already leaking out of the weep hole and the seam between the inspection plate and the flywheel cover,,  however it seems to be coming out of the right side,, most of the leak material was out of the right corner and connection near the starter..  when i got back in, it had covered the bottom of inspection plate, leaking out of weep hole as well, nothing is coming down the front of the flywheel plate.  setting up to get back under and do it again, hoping i dont get snowed on thursday, oh well,,

Is the valve cover leaking, or the oil pressure sending unit?

Could be!  It went in much smoother than the first one as i had it covered in oil, but it may be backwards,   only one way to find outvTbthis point.    Attached is the cover bottom as soon as i pulled in an shut off engine and looked undervcar. Weep plate has a slick with scattred drops and in the seam.

Ok. This may seem odd but the rear oil pan seal has a cut out along edg,  see picture.  I kno the have a tab at top to fit in cork gasket but does cutout go towards front of car or back of car....i kno i kno,  but just wat to make sure

Ues. I put it on bootom and  on top of this rubbersea . Dnr kno if i put it on outer rim.   Wul ln future today

Does this look correct?  Fat part to rear , flat lip to front?p

This is correct. Lip of seal points toward the front ...  just as indicated in your shop manual.

Ok.  Good, thes are the replaces seals going in today.  Bottom half arrached.  The edge is a touch high.   And when you look at the borrom edge of seal it sits up just a bit.  I am guessing that the 95 lbs of torge squeezes itvall down to were its flush for a tight seal,,,,,,,theoretically??!!

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