oil Pressure Sensor

[Kim K Kaiser]

over weekend, i found some oil leaking from behind the valley pan.  As some of you know, changed all that out back in oct or so and noted the oil pressure sithc was so low to the block that is seemed to inhibit a full flush connection, but didnt think much of it until i finally had some time to do so more searching for that leak,  (again from prior many post).

Anyway, i had purchased a NOS from Russ and i could see a big difference in the construction, so i decided to change the valley pan out again get a presumed flush fit and stop that leak out the bak of the valley pan..

so i got every thing changed, noted the valley pan quite leaking (yeah!)  at least for now, and went out for a ride this morning.  

as i would approach a stop sign or hit brakes to get to almost a stop,, my oil light would come on!!!! as soon as i tapped the accellearor, it would cut off immediately,,    

i thought WTF now.. 

so, i did some drive testing,,,, here is what i found.

driving,, hitting gas, hard, or intermittent or driving at 70, or just coasting from 70 to almost a stop,,,no oil light.

zipping around town, as one would typically drive,, no oil light, EXCEPT, when i almost got to stop and had to hit brake to fully stop at a sign or light,,but again, as soon as i hit accelerator, even just a tap,, the light would disappear.

Since my other sensor or since i never had a oil sensor light problem before,,, can someone shed a little light on this please..    again, this never ever happened prior to this change out, 

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

The oil pressure relief valve is on the oil pump end plate, It is the sliding piston in the cylinder. There can be no gouging, scratches or wean in there. The very end is where the sliding piston sits and moves to relieve pressure. That is where the wear will happen, and possibly have trapped debris.

[Jason Edge]

If the oil pressure relief valve sticks open or partially open you will usually have consistent lower oil pressure. I remember seeing & hearing one with stuck valve in a Chapter Members car at Lake George, who drove it there, and it was a consistent clattering! It did not go away and any rpm or condition since the relief valve was open. He had the car towed to mechanic where it was confirmed and fixed. I guess one could intermittently get stuck, but it has been my experience, and 1st hand in this case, where the oil pressure remains low.  I would change the oil filter as indicated, but also run engine flush through engine then change both oil and filter at same time. I would definitely do this after you have buttoned up the engine for the last time and do not plan to open it back up and replace gaskets again in the near future.  Just as a side note I rarely use any gasket sealer and when I do it just a very light layer. When I rebuilt my engine I probably ended up using less than a teaspoon. Areas like valve cover gaskets never get sealant and generally follow the shop manual in terms of adding or not adding gasket sealant. If you cake it on the gaskets some of it is going to squeeze inside the engine side when you torque down the bolts... not good to say the least!

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

Gees Tony, laying it on rather thick?  Must be date night.

[Kim K Kaiser]

What is an engine flush?  A chemical addive to cycle througg the engine or another removal of oil pan and allow drainGe?

[Jason Edge]

You just add it to your oil and run it 5 to 10 minutes before you drain the oil. Every auto parts store will have it and of course can get it at amazon. Just helps thin oil, dissolve, clean and loosen things before oil change. You just want to drain oil as soon as you run it in crankcase .. directions are on the bottle.  Some people claim in old built up engines with built up sludge it is better to not use engine flush as it helps keep things sealed. I think that is non-sense... I would rather have a bit more oil seepage than an engine clogged full of sludge and perhaps not allowing bearings, etc, from getting proper oil lubrication. I've used engine flush off and on for 40+ years with good results.

[Kim K Kaiser]

ok,, thanks,,,

[Kim K Kaiser]

Two weeks, 10 30w

[Kim K Kaiser]

How does that relate to the changing accelerator settings.  Im trying to understand the relationship so that it makes sense to me.  I want to understand the why so i can further understand engine functions and how the transfer of thought went from the accelerator adjustment to oil regulator.  What changed in your thinking from the dashpot vaccum to the oil pressure regulator.   Please understand im not questioning your answer, just want to know why for my own knowledge

[Kim K Kaiser]

Thanks,  i will say in disagreement, the forum has helped immensely,  you guys can only reccommend thoughts based on what and how i convey a problem.   Hell, i didnt know what a tie rod was until someone here gave me the direct instructions to change them.   I did change the seal [3] times,  all w ypur input and others and of couse u tube for visual reference.  

So,  give me, if someone can, a plan,  

1. Chg oil filter?  If no result.

2, check oil pressyre relief valve for damage,,,,if no damage, use a washer to increase spring pressure?  I read that on one of Russ's post and recollect Clovis saying it someeere,  as a hot rodder trick to increase pressure.  

Those are just time and seem fairly simple and low cost.

• If none of above, what would be nxt logical step,  gears in pump?  Thats were i get stuck,  lack of knowlege to move forward wo having to bug yall each n every burp n fart that occurs.  As always, your patience is greatly appreciated

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

The oil pump makes flow during engine revolution. The oil pump is a high flow, low pressure pump.

Low engine revolution =  oil flow. If the idle is set too low, the oil flow will be too low.  Since flow (resistance) = pressure, the engine idle is directly related to engine oil pressure.

[David Thomas]

Kim, sounds like you're going in circles. You may have a low oil pressure issue caused from worn bearings, or restrictions from debris like others have mentioned. And, you may have a pressure sensor that isn't correct for our cars. Generic replacement sensors usually turn the light on around 10 or 12psi. If I remember correctly, the correct sensor triggers the light around 8psi. I think the manual states hot idle pressure to be right at 10psi. Not being sure which possible issue you may have,  I would suggest that you purchase an oil pressure gauge to get a known value at you're described operating parameters. That would be helpful for diagnosis. Connect the gauge fittiing where the sensor port is. Mount the gauge under the dash if you want it to be permenant. Just speculating wastes your time, money and causes frustration. If the hot idle @ 480 rpm is 8psi or less, you need to investigate for flow restrictions or bearing clearance issues. The pressure should be 30psi @ 35mph. HTH.

[20jy3hk6fv4cg]

Hi Kim. Just a thought and a question = When you SAW that low pressure warning light coming to glow, did you HEAR the  awful clattering noise of valvelifters starving of oil.= clickety-clack sound? If not , no problems.

Just turn in the screw at carburator a half turn or a bit more,like mentioned before,and you will be good.

Good luck  :-)