Hesitation on starting after driving

[Dave Fehrle]

I have noticed that after I drive for 5-10 miles or more and then shut off the car, it hesitates when I go to start? Anyone experience this before and if so, what was the fix?

[Dennis P. DiBari]

Hi Dave,

     After driving for a while, shut it off and pull the air cleaner and look to see if gas is dripping into the carburetor.  Does it sound like it is partially flooded?  Also, when the engine is cold, how is the choke setting?  It should close well when cold and open fully after 3-4 minutes when engine warms.  If it does, start adjusting with the large idle screw in the rear of the carb. (Rochester carb.), and finish with the two front air/fuel mixture screws.  Try not to adjust it too rich.  I hope this helps.  If the choke does not open when hot, the heat riser/internal choke tube may be faulty.

Dennis DiBari, Cottekill, NY

[Dennis P. DiBari]

Hi Dave,

  One more thing with the carburetor.  If gas is dripping into the carburetor when off, it could be dirt impeding gas flow.  At the shop, we used to disconnect the fuel line from the carb. and plug it tight.  Then, run the carburetor dry till it stops.  Then reconnect the fuel line and start the car.  Sometimes, the fresh flow of gas cleans the needle and seat.  Make sure your hands are clean and the fuel line is tightly plugged when disconnected.

Dennis DiBari

[Dave Fehrle]

Thank you Dennis. I will do those items. 
I forgot to mention that it sounds more like the battery is low and causing the hesitation. The engine will turn over once, then paise for a sec or 2, the kick over and start. 

[Dennis P. DiBari]

Hi Dave,

     What you described could be a faulty solenoid/starter, if the battery is strong putting out 12.3 volts.  Check the connections on the battery and down on the starter to rule out a bad connection.  Start with a strong battery to properly diagnose the situation.  If it still happens, it could be down at the starter.  If it's pretty old, may have to be rebuilt.  Hope this helps Dave!

Dennis DiBari 

[CHRIS CARLSON]

Hi Dave , Sounds like you could have a weak battery from your starting description or your starter bushings are worn so the armature is dragging - contacting the field coils.  Check your battery  with a volt meter.  A fully charged battery will have 12.6 volts.  I still load test battery's with a carbon pile I use a  Sun Vat 40 or a Auto Meter SB-5 .  If it drops below 9.6 volts before  the  15 sec load test is completed it needs to be replaced. 9.6 to 9.9 volts is considered fair condition & 10 volts or higher during the test is in Good condition.   You would load the battery @ half its cold cranking amp rating for 15 seconds then remove the load from the battery. . If your battery passes then i would check the condition of you battery cables if there 60 years old it  may be  time to replace them.  If the battery tests good and the cables are new or not corroded  then check the ground cable that runs from the frame to one of  starter bolts is it present ?  if every thing checks good, then perform a starter amperage draw test which should be 130 to 165 amps that will tell you if the starter is pulling to many amps when cranking if higher then 165 amps then have the starter  rebuilt @ a starter shop.   Disconnect the coil wire to perform this test,  initially amperage may spike higher then should drop to between 130 to 165 amps as you are cranking the engine. Hope this may help you.

[Dave Fehrle]

Thank you Chris for the help! So after letting the car sit for 4 days, I was to do put a voltmeter to it. The batt tested 12.6 cold and then 16.6 after driving it for 5 min!  Then I shut it off and it was 13.6. So why so high when the car is warm?  Then when I restarted, the hesitation was there, but it still started. 
Disconnected the neg cable at batt and removed bolt on ground term on regulator and re-installed the bolt. Checked and tightened all nuts on the alternator. 
then put it on lift, removed ground bolt on cable coming off starter. Cleaned it up and re-installed. Also checked and tightened nuts on starter. 
then took it for a drive and batt numbers were all the same HOWEVER, the hesitation when restarting after it was warm was almost imperceptible. 
is the high charge on batt when running an issue?

[Dennis P. DiBari]

Hi Dave,

     Just one thing with the 16.6 reading on the voltmeter after a few minutes running.  That's high - should be around 14.3 when running.  I struggled with this in the spring.  It wound up being the regulator and the wiring harness from the regulator to the alternator, and solved the problem.  I also double grounded the regulator  to make sure.  As Chris said, changing the battery cables is also good to do.  You cleaned the grounds (I did that also), so see if the regulator/harness need replacing.  Hope this helps.

Dennis DiBari

[Russ Austin]

Probably bad battery cables.  Replace them and get the sealed end cables.  Corrosion sets in and the cable looses the ability to carry amps. When the cable gets hot, it looses more amp carrying power. 

Clean the grounds on the negative cable to frame and starter ground to frame. 

[Dave Fehrle]

Russ, who sells the sealed end batt cables? 

Has anyone done the adjusting to the regulator as described in the service manual? Or is it just easier to replace? And where can one get a regulator harness?

[Dennis P. DiBari]

Hi Dave,

     It is easier to replace the regulator and the wiring harness.  Adjusting an old regulator as per the manual may not do it.  Get a reputable regulator from a good company. (Caddy Daddy, etc.)  Just went through all of this in the spring.

Dennis DiBari

[Jason Edge]

I have plenty of very good regulator to alternator harnesses but out of town until Oct 5.

[Russ Austin]

I have good regulator wire harnesses, please send me an email; [e-mail] 

The battery cables are Standard, PN  A30-4  and A53-4U