oil pump gasket replacement & ps pump replacement

[Kim K Kaiser]

I got my parts in to replace gasket on the 63 cdv oil pump that is leaking.

reading in the manual, it says to remove engine front covers described in 2a.

that is a BUNCH of steps to remove the gasket and the two sets of gears,   or am i over reading that and should i just stick to the disassembly while its on the engine, those 4 cap crews look easy enough access, and proceed to disassemble then reassemble under 5b and 6a  

secondly, i received the PS pump and two new lines.. pump off ok,, pulley off ok,, but those hoses back on the steering column are a real bear,, any suggestion to get those loose, only thing at this point i can see to do is cut the metal piping at at the nut and slide a socket over it,, is there a easier access to pop it loose,,  i have put some nut buster spray in it to sit all night,, see if any easier tomorrow.

Sincerely

Kim

[Kim K Kaiser]

rebuild at around 1oo, current miles at 147,  the invoice from the prior owner didnt specify, work, just an appx 2500 bill...but it was described as rebuild engine, and owner specified it was completely re done, what eve that meant in the sales negotiation process.

[Jason Edge]

So you have a 47K mile engine. I thought I had read "rebuilt" a few times but while that is technically true this is an engine that has seen about 1/2 the miles of it's designed use since rebuilt.  I still do not know the "history" of the engine since rebuild, any prior issues, maintenance history, etc. Since we all seem to forget what we do on our own engines, much less someone else's, at least without documentation, I would encourage you to state the basic facts including mileage, upgrades, replacements and the like up front for future new posts regarding the engine.

[3n49omug8n28i]

When my manifolds crack I'm getting headers or making them myself. This guy has been bombarded with some pretty out there suggestions. Manifold gaskets have been blowing for, well.... Forever. I've replaced them on every one of my old cars same as leaking valve covers, oil pans and various other seals. It doesn't mean we need to take an engines out for leaks. Let the guy get the car back on the road and confirm this is the only problem. He has been chasing problems already why are we presenting more that are not even there? Tony suggested removing tires, inner fenders and motor mounts for a GASKET LEAK AT A FRONT MANIFOLD CONNECTION? He was also told he needed to tear down the top end of his engine, no wonder the guy is running in circles. This is required also? IF and a big IF the gasket blows again then it might be prudent to square a surface. Why are we finding problems that aren't there? Sweet Jesus guys he doesn't know the difference between a glass pack and a cherry bomb muffler. It's called KISS keep it simple stupid!! (Not now either Anders)

[Jason Edge]

This is why it is best to list all the details up front. It can save a lot of guessing. As I like to say the Details are in the Details! 
My post regarding having exhaust manifolds surfaces flat during installing after a rebuild to me is a must, but I also know it is often bypassed when you farm rebuilds out.
If the exhaust manifolds were planed flat for rebuild, engine has not overheated, and not too many miles on engine then it is a no, brainer.. install gasket and torque back down.
HOWEVER, If exhaust manifold was not planed flat, exhaust manifold gaskets were installed and torqued correctly, and retorqued after run-in, and still has a leak, then I think it would be wise to remove manifold and have the planed flat.
As  noted, a cracked exhaust manifold will end up costing you more time and money in the long run regardless if you install headers or find another nice original set.

 

[Kim K Kaiser]

believe, me,, I read them all,, for some reason,, my phone interprets this website oddly, and i dont alway see the most recent responses..and cant see all the post on a particular post.  I am not shunning any suggestion,, either i dont see it on the phone, or, it appears so far up once i get to the computer.  you would just have to see the screen to understand what i see.

secondly,  i was looking under the car for exhaust leaks, not at the top of the manifold, as at quick first glance, its not readily visible, AND, i dont always know what i am looking for, i had thought to get out the camera light and go under the car while changing oil today,  thinking it had to be underneath as i didnt see anything obvious on the top., i think there was a suggestion that there would be burn mark,, or something to that effect, i read it, i looked for it, but its not a burn mark where "i think" this is,, please, understand, i dont mean to ignore any suggestion,  i look for each and every thing,, i have looked at that connection 100 times, and it never occurred to me that was it, it just looked "normal"  and, i had noted very early on in my mind, that the spark plugs had a blackish shadow from soot, but, i really just didn't think that was important, as i wasnt sure that it was i new problem or old.  it was just one of those ' huh', i dont remember that looking like that, and just moved along.  

i know i have put out on this long thread, there is what i was told was a cherry bomb on the exhaust, and, that i had though it was odd, that i no long heard a rattling up on startup,  i thought it may be as we dont have as cold a morning here in MS as we do in MT, that the rattle just wasnt happening in the warmer,,"cold"start., i dont know the difference from a glass pack or a cherry bomb, .  

i read and i digest what is presented and try to compress it to a plan,  if i offend by not specific answer, i truly apologize,  i read and re read everything, i screen capture to take out to the car to test this or that,  I am here to learn, and progress.  not to offend,,  I truly value the experience and am amazed at what is known by everyone here, and on the cadillac forum, when i have question on my 73.  i never really knew how specific car knowledge could be, down to not only the brand, but the type,, so again, thanks,,

Again, my apologies if I didn't answer,  I read, re read and tried to apply the suggestions.  

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

You learn as you go, and move onto the next issue at hand.  Doing it yourself means your going to screw up at some point. You deal with it and move on.  I rebuilt a motor just to ruin the top end because I forgot to tighten the cam timing chain bolt.

Just get automotive repair books and read read read.

[3n49omug8n28i]

Part of the problem is with how this forum allows replies a month (exaggerating) back into a post. It gets very confusing when you have three or four people trying to suggest something and none of it is in order. This is why it's so confusing at times. I've been here for three years and get frustrated with people replying to posts out of order and have had to do it myself just to keep the conversation fluid. Your doing fine and I know exactly what your doing in response to what is going on. Again three, four or five people trying to help actually doesn't. I won't always jump in if your getting help but also don't want someone being told to tear down an engine when they shouldn't be.

[Kim K Kaiser]

ok,,  i have a photo downloading to my phone, then to my computer,, but the long and short of it is,, i was fiddling around behind themainfold connection on the front of the black, and low and behold, the gasket was sticking out of the back!!!!!  i simply pulled it out, still intact, a little warped, but intact.  in addition, someone mentions that there doest look like a bolt at the manifold connection,, and sure enough, there is a hole there.  i stuck a clothes hanger end in there and there is nothing there and about 2 inches or so deep, the threads look barely visible due to crude build up,  my guess is this thing held together for 40k miles or so since rebuild at 100k, ( 148k total miles) and then, with no bolt to hold in place, expansion and contraction, it has just slide out,, just my opinion and given my experience,, hardly worth 2 cents, but, thats my answer.. oh,, picture just came in, and it below, anyway,  i am guessing that this is at least a visible answer to the problem, or at least a start so , i will run thrgouh all the suggestions, and see what will best work for me..

i may have to get a bottle cleaner and some sort of cleaner to clean out that bolt hole, i really dont think a bolt will easily go in at this point due to gunk

the gasket simply slid out, i also stuck a credit card easily in the slot, so if you know who thick that is,, that is how big the gap is,

thanks again for all the help guys, really appreciate all the comments and suggestions

[Kim K Kaiser]

I figured out how to access the website so you can read from ypur phone, my prior viewing was in phone mode and limited my acces to all the post.
Go to topright corner of page to the dropdow n menu. Go to desktop mode and the full conversations will come up. Thst is why i was missing some post

[3n49omug8n28i]

I'm of the opinion that they just fell out and could have been too short to start as Mark suggested. I would skip the cut bolt thing and just go and buy the proper tap. The best to get is a bottoming tap that's used specifically for chasing or cleaning threads. The next best thing is a regular tap. If you can't find taps the do as Mark suggested but remember all three suggestions for cleaning the threads can lead to trouble if you don't line up the taps or bolt with the hole and try to force it. It needs to be worked back and forth with a lubricant to work properly. If you don't have an air compressor get yourself a can of computer keyboard duster to blow out the holes. It's a compressed inert gas with a nozzle to put in the hole and blow out the gunk. If you're worried about the bolts coming back out you can use a small daub of locktight blue just before you torque it down. You don't go back and retorque though with the locktight. 

[3n49omug8n28i]

Get the proper bolts from Jason or Russ, they are the proper grade strength and are designed to stretch when torqued properly. The stretching is designed into the bolt so that it doesn't need a lock washer and will hold itself into the head without loosening from vibrations and heating/cooling cycles. This also could be the reason they fell out. They could have been the proper length but not the proper bolts for stretch. 

[Kim K Kaiser]

ok,, i got the gaskets coming, will get the bolts today,  i will have to get the book out to find the bolt attachments,,the only one that came to view initially was the one that is ta the very front where it goes down to hold in the slipped out gasket,, little rainy out today, hoping it will clear later.

will hae to research taps and do so you tubing,,,, i can get a better feel for things sometimes when i see it done 

thanks,