It looks like I am in for replacing my drivers side exhaust manifold gasket(s) on my 1964 60s. Any words of wisdom regarding technique, parts supplier ...?

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Comment by Michael J on July 19, 2013 at 11:53am

One needed to be taken to my friends shop, if I recall correctly , and heated and banged to remove. Unfortunately, it was a year ago and the specifics escape me.

Comment by Michael J on September 16, 2012 at 11:35am

Just replaced the bearings (both inners and outers). Wow what a difference that makes.

Comment by Michael J on September 11, 2012 at 11:56am

Did from the top and bottom using Jason's 14mm trick. Did by hand since I dont have impact tools. Car is quite dry ,and so is the engine, so they unscrewed with out any real fighting. No wheel well removal or engine mount (though I assumed I was probably going to have to and sourced a new one). I just did the drivers side.

Comment by Jason Edge on September 11, 2012 at 7:20am

Excellent questions Tony. Those bolts can often be a bear if never removed.  I will note that the the 63 and 64 are identical in terms of the exhaust manifold to block and the left side exhaust manifold to tail pipe biscuit/flange. On the right/passenger side it empties out toward the rear vs the center in the 63. All of your "interference points" including inner fender well upper control arm etc are exactly the same. The 63 390 and 64 are actually very similar with only major exterior difference being the RH exh manifold, air cleaner housing and smaller items such as the addition of the Power steering cool radiator up on the LH inner fender.  There is actually much more difference between the 62 390 and the 63 390 than the 63 390 and the 64 429.

Comment by Michael J on September 10, 2012 at 11:32pm

And it's done. Thanks to all. Came apart like it was 5 years old not 50. Car doesn't sound like it has a lifter that wants to shoot out of the hood. Now the wheel bearings and then......

Comment by Michael J on September 5, 2012 at 6:08pm


Comment by Jason Edge on September 5, 2012 at 5:32pm

No..they should be at any auto parts store. You will have short studs on the right, and longer studs on the left due to the heat riser. As I recall they have course thread on the manifold end and find thread on the bottom/tail pile nut end. I've never had a bit of problem finding the studs.

I believe even placed like Ace have them.



Comment by Michael J on September 5, 2012 at 4:25pm

Thanks guys for all the info. Jason, are the new studs readily available (say at NAPA or Autozone) or are they an odd length?

Comment by Jason Edge on September 3, 2012 at 7:34am

If the exhaust manifolds have never been remove they can be tough to take off. The main advance is to use a 6 point 14mm socket. 14 mm is just a bit smaller than 9/16 and will give you a very firm grip on the hex head bolts and should not strip off. This is true for the exhaust manifold to engine bolts and exhaust manifold to tail pipe biscuit nuts. I have posted a help blog with more info and my experience over the years at

As far as gaskets you can get them thru AutoZone, and other parts houses. I have I'm thinking 3 new sets on hand right now so if you find parts houses are out of them get with me at  Make sure the kit includes the 3 exhaust manifold to tail pipe gaskets (3 because of the heat riser). It's also a good time to put new studs in the bottom of the exhaust manifold unless the old ones going back in are really solid.


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