Headed out for drive. Oil pressure good tempnat one quarter on gauge,  went about  1.2 miles looked bl at oil pressure it was at ZERO! I hv mech gauge, so  i thumped it didnt budge, immediately pulled over and shut down. Didnt hear any noies or smell anything.  Opened hood, oil splattered all over engine bay from about oil  filter back on passenger side. Hadno lights or tools and bay was a mess s so i couldnt assess anything as to origin.

Well i started up the road for the 2 mile walk to house and saw the oil trail.  As you can see, pretty significant. Something clearly went boom.   The oil trail is about one quartr mile long.  I can see were it started .  Initially looks like from were oil is most concentrated on engine, its around the oil pump or filter.  Any idea what could cause such a blowout ?  I hope i caufht it soon enough to shut down.

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I hv used the anearobic on the rear gasket seal.  I didnt use any sealant or other wise on the cork gasket i put in.  Cked today,  no seepage, . I guess as tony mentioned was the pressure aspect.    Will cork hold up?.  Last one i took out held for several years as thats when i got it and i hvnt changed it

I don't think cork is used in those areas. Too much pressure and liquid right there. Cork is generally used in areas like the oil pan and valve covers where there isn't a lot of pressure directly against the gasket.

Per advice, removed the cork gasket, which was holding,   found 1/32 paper, which was thicker than the kit supplied gasket from felpro.  cut out to shape,,,, put it in car, and again, it will not hold.   but the thick cork does.  so I am in search of a thick paper gasket, probably 1/8,, i have searched google with no discernible result.

I will note however, since the first removal, i noted the bolt that goes into the engine doesnt seem to want to tighten.  it tightens, but not to the 15 like the bolt that is not into the block,, could the threads be worn,,it may be why they used the thick cork in the first place that went out because it could seal without the torque   if that is that case, what wold be remedy from there.  i read a bout that helicoil repair, but dont want to go there unless last resort, so if anyone has a suggestion from hear, I'm all ears.

The only logical repair is a heli coil. If you drill it out and tap it to a larger size you will have to drill a larger clearance hole in the part you are trying to mount which weakens it. The down side to heli coil repair kit is they are a bit pricey but do come with the required drill and tap plus heli coils and installation tool. It really is the proper repair. If you can't get your regular drill into position, you might need to get a close quarter drill like this...

https://www.amazon.ca/Genesis-GCQD38A-8-Inch-Close-Quarter/dp/B00CD...

That's a Canadian price so look one up at a US location. All told doing this repair right and yourself should be fairly easy and would save you the grief of having to cobble something up over and over. The money spent on the heli coil kit is small potatoes compared to the cost of having a shop do it unless you have a really reasonable mechanic available.

Question on the hole bored into the block

   Im guessung this hole is a dead end hole and doesnt empty into block or cylinders.  Is that correct.  I intend on blowing out the shavings, but if something is left behind,   

Picture of the stripped hole would help out. I use heli coils all the time, no big deal. You  can drill and tap the hole for the original sized bolt. Again, I do it all the time on thermostat covers, water pump bolts into the front engine cover, aluminum intakes. 

Repair the hole and use a stock gasket. 

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