Trans Pan Seal Replacement

[Logan Robb]

Since I purchased my 64 Fleetwood nearly a year ago, its had a transmission leak that has gradually gotten worse. Not to mention the intermittent no shift to third issue I have been struggling to diagnose. 

The next step for me is to replace the pan seal and filter. That being said, I want to make sure I have everything I need ON HAND when I take on this project. I want to get it done in one day if I can, so need to have everything ready to go for when I try to attempt the process. 

My question is this: Do I need to remove what I believe is the transmission mount support to get to the front pan seal bolts? Doesn't look like I have access to those bolts without doing so. 

Is there anything else I should replace while I am in that area? It has a new Gov Gear and Vacuum Modulator. 

Ill be ordering from Fatsco Transmission as linked in the help page. 

As usual, I appreciate all the help!

Logan

[Jason Edge]

Even if you can get the lower pan off without removing the front crossmember you still need to torque the pan bolts when installing. I always remove the crossmember. There are only 6 bolts with 6 split lock washers and comes out pretty easy giving you straight access. Unless you see something else with issues, filter, gasket, fluid are the 3 main things to change with pan off.

[Sammy]

Hi. doin' the same on my 63 CdV these days.
What I'm not sure: using gasket maker (high temp silicone) on both sides on the new transmission pan seal or not?
Read different opinions on that...

Thanks for help.
Sammy

[Dennis P. DiBari]

Hi Sammy,

     I've been doing these tranny tune ups for myriad years in my dad's shop since the 70's.  After spotlessly cleaning the pan and gasket detritus, we applied a thin layer of heavy duty grease around the flat perimeter of the pan and set the new gasket on it.  Carefully threaded each bolt through the pan to the housing and tightened; they never leaked.  We never used any gasket maker or permatex. 

Dennis DiBari. Cottekill, NY 

[Jason Edge]

I agree, no need for gasket maker. Just clean surfaces, make sure you bolts threads are clean (female threads in casing and male on bolt shank) and make sure they turn easily and torque to spec (13 ft/lb). Main think is don't overtighten!

[Marty Smith]

My 2 cents to this after agreeing with Dennis and Jason is to make sure that the areas surrounding the bolt holes have not been deformed by overtightening if they are use a hammer and drift to make them flat. 

[Jason Edge]

Same sort of thing with the oil pans. The are notorious for getting over-tightened and bend down.  You big lipped channel locks and grip the lower lip and gently bend the entire section back upward then take two small flat pieces of wood shorter than the valve cover, seat the edge over and take a large 4 lb hammer and hit the top board back and forth to straight further. Over torqueing can get you in all sorts of trouble!

[Dennis P. DiBari]

Marty,

     Excellent point about the pan!!!!!!

Dennis DiBari

[Sammy]

Hope I can see the deformations...

What grease to use? 
Maybe an example, make etc would help...

[Jason Edge]

"Hope I can see the deformations..." --> lay it on anything flat

"What grease to use?" --> shouldn't really matter. I just used a couple of dabs of sealer only to tack the gasket in place. The gasket will form your seal if pan is straight and bolts torqued to spec.