I got rms seal chged and all bk together. Tried to start, nothing.  No lights nothing,  so i got to lookong around figuring that therecwasnt but one connection elextrical.  I tested battery for drainage, it was ok.  I then shook a few wies to see. If i pulled something land the big one going to starter from battery i didnt hook up.  It got hung up when i took it off and didnt see it when i put starter back in.  Well, when shook it i hit someting and sparked pretty good.  So i unhooked again, rehooked up the wire to started and hit switch.  The generator light now comes on, but engine does budge.  Just the gen light, and it sort of looks weak.  So i cked fuses, none look blown.  I took the big 40 amp power fuse out and turned key, gen light still comes on but just like with it in,  the engine is silent.

So what would be next in line to check,  the voltage regulator and how would you check that.  Solenoid?  I just dnt know enough about power to know were to look next.  Thanks

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Do all you guys realize —-that when Kim get this engine running we are first going to find out if the new  bearing cutting and the New rms  is going ——-To Stop the Leaking !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It should do the trick or I am going to CRY !!

Enjoy 

i will too Tony,, I'm sick of being under that car,   i was hoping to drive it to MS, like a cross county drive in a couple weeks.. maybe even take a detour to Moab,,, but i cant even get it off the ramps,,,  

i didnt find any gunk or metal in the oil screen or pan, so i guess everything is moving in its places ok,,

Kim 

Time to take a brake and walk away for a while read the sites info and chill out 

Think thru the events and return  with a clear head 
You  have been under the car so many hours just repairing the crank and seal and then the electrical issue so I am feeling your frustration 

The boys will figure this out soon 

Enjoy 

Kim 

Do you have a point dist or the Pertronics ign  modual ?

Enjoy 

petronics

Kim, I generally do not reply to your posts for a reason, but will reiterate why in this reply. Your posts are incomplete and unclear.  Trying to decipher your posts is like trying to understand a foreign language.

When I read things like " I tested battery for drainage, it was ok.  I then shook a few wies to see." or " If i pulled something land the big one going to starter from battery i didnt hook up.  It got hung up when i took it off and didnt see it when i put starter back in." I am just scratching my head.

Most of your posts are like detective stories where the reader is trying to put together bits and pieces from clues to solve a mystery.   And I am just talking about the mystery of trying to understand what you are trying to say ... much less help you with the actual problem.  I try to follow the 4 C's of writing in that it should be clear, concise, correct and complete.  Clearly state what you have done, what the issue is, and include all relevant information.   

The one piece of advice I will give here, especially regarding wiring, is to take your time.   As Tony indicated always disconnect the battery cable when you are working with any component on the car that involves wiring. Take pictures of what you are disconnecting if there is any possibility you will not know exactly how to reinstall something.  Also make notes, separate bolts and fasteners into marked bags, and read and reread the Shop Manual and other pertinent information regarding the work you are doing. Never just jump in there, removing things haphazardly, or throwing things back together. 

On a side note, Mark mentioned the spring ring type battery cables I use. I like them for two reasons - 1st they were the original type battery cable and provide that original look and 2nd I can remove them in 1 second with my hand.  The modern side bolt terminal battery cables are fine and definitely give a great connection but when I go to these car shows and see the non-factory side-bolt terminal battery cables and very expensive add-on battery disconnects, I just smile, thinking to myself "Well, the factory original cables had the quick disconnect feature built in."   


Jason,  im in a bit of a crunch on time here.  I need to try to get car off  my friends place.  

To the problem...i looked again today at wires. No loose ends.  But did notice following picture.  Red wire connection sleeve looks burnt through.  Could that hot poistive wire from battery have hit that spot and caused this?  If so, should i just cut out, and reconnect or would whole wire be bad.  Or solenoid be bad

Kim if that is metal I am seeing peaking through that hot wire it should be at a minimum covered with a thick layer of electical tape. The optimal solution would be to replace the entire wire (or at leaste all exposed next to metal like this) with new wire as thick or thicker than the original. 

Its solder material where he attached.  Friend did all that,  i guess due to original wire being frayed or not so good shape at that juncture due to age.  

What about hot wiring to see if it would turn over.  Would that help narrow down the source or just repetitive.

Btw. I did try the nss jump no go

I would address exposed hot wires before you worry about hot wiring a car... else you may truly have "hot wires". If the area pointed to is exposed metal (solder, aluminum, steel or otherwise), it is an accident waiting to happen. 

Problem solved, nothing damaged, one of my forrest forrest gump moments!   Pulled connection loose, re attached everything, covered up parts Jason reffered that needed heavy black taping.  See RMS thread for current result of rms. Repair

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