Had to replace A/C Mode Damper Actuator

[David Thomas]

18 years back and many miles since, I replaced the Factory original Mode Actuator and heater core. Well, a couple of weeks back the replacement Mode Actuator failed. I ordered a new Actuator from Old Air Products. I figured even though the Heater core was still good, not leaking, I might as well replace it while I had everything apart. I ordered the new heater core from Rock Auto. I have the Heater Box assembled but I haven't installed it under the dash, yet. For anyone interested, I uploaded to my page, some pictures of the Heater Box, etc. I was able to remove the Heater Box from under the dash without removing the blower housing from the engine bay firewall or removing the hood hinge, as the shop manual lists to do.

[David Thomas]

Hi Tony, thanks for the kind words. As Russ and I stated, no need to remove the hood or hinge to get the under dash ductwork out. There are 6 speed nuts securing the duct to the firewall. All can be removed with a deep well  1/4 inch drive socket and long extensions and a universal joint. The nut under the hinge area will require a little fanagling, but it is doable.

The Airtex fuel pump failed at 15k miles. It spit the intake valve out. As you can see in the picture,  it was not staked in at the factory. 

[David Thomas]

On the 63, I think the blower housing could be removed after removing the heater box without having to remove the hinge. I've never removed the evaporator,  but would think it would then be removed following the shop manual steps.

[David Thomas]

I'm still chasing vacuum leaks on the 63 A/C system.  Trying to remove the A/C control switch panel so I can check the vacuum switch. The shop manual says after unbolting and disconnecting the switch assembly, to remove it from the dash.  I haven't been able to thread it out of the dash going up or down. Has anyone had success, what am I  missing? Thanks.

[Jason Edge]

I remove them with the entire dash out so that will not help you but looking at the 63 & 64 shop manuals, the 63 say to disconnect the left AC outlet hose (note 15.a pg 15-9), and of course on note 14a. you have a series of disconnects such as Bowden cables, etcs. and assume hall have been disconnected, lower instrument (dash) panel removed etc. The other thing I noticed is the 64 shop manual did say to bring it out from the top ... but the 64's other than the series 75, have a different shaped, upper steering column hanger bracket, so that might be why the difference. Regardless, it will probably just take a good light and some patience and be ready to temporarily disconnect or move things. It is busy back behind there. 

[David Thomas]

Thanks Jason.  The path looked better going out the top but I couldn't get it past the speedometer and upper cowl. I became frustrated after about an hour of twisting and turning it all around and decided to call it a day. I'll go back at it in a day or so to see if I can get it to cooperate. Maybe someone else has been there and can give us some pointers on getting it removed.

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

Move the fuse box out of the way. 

[David Thomas]

Thanks Russ. I suspected that you or Jason had been there before. I'll try that when I get back to it.

[David Thomas]

 I was able to get the A/C control panel out this morning. As Jason suggest from the 64 shop manual it came out the top. I did have to remove the headlight switch to get clearance and even then it was tight. I tried moving the fuse panel as Russ suggested but that didn't work out.

Is there a way to restore the A/C 6 port vacuum switch? Are there sources for new replacements? The one in my 63 seems to have a good amount of seepage to it. The 3 port heat control switch seeps a little, but not as much as the 6 port.

After removing the headlight switch I noticed the Ceramic around the dash light resistor was broken. Can that be repaired with JB weld or something similar? It is in two pieces held together by the resistor wire.

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

You can JB weld that resistor together.   To fix the vacuum valve, drill the rivet head off and sand the 2 sealing surfaces flat again. Use a mirror with fine sandpaper. The mirror will give you a flat surface.

You will need to drill and tap the rivet post for a machine screw. Use Loctite so the screw doesn't back out. 

I have extra valves if you screw it up. 

[David Thomas]

Russ, Thanks for the tip!

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

Forgot to mention that you will need to use high temp vacuum grease between the 2 halves.

[David Thomas]

Russ, thanks for the follow up on the required lubricant.