Well, got it all together,, Jason, i was looking in the wrong chapter in the manual on the starter,, got that figured out.  everything hooked back up

Got it put back together, started up, and oil light turned off.. putting a hole in the gasket that the oil sump filter really helped out on that..

I only ran it for ab out 15 minutes. pulled out of my friends garage, and rode down the street,,

i noticed a knock or something tha wasnt there to start with,  I think its a leak at that driver side exhaust connection.  My reason for that is, when i pulled off the exhaust, the nut didnt come off, the hole screw came out of the block,, the nut was pretty much heat soldered on bolt,  So i dont think i was able to put the 33 pounds of torque on the connection as i was afraid of stripping out the threads on the block,,   so i got it as tight as i felt comfortable cranking down on it, but it didn't hit the 33 lbs.  

Can i get replacement screws at the part store for that??

What did i learn from all this,, hmmm,, really nice to have full car lift.  

lots to look at inside the engine, but since i didnt have to touch anything there, no problems.  

the guy at arizona parts in arizona, (the guy there was quite helpful)   told me to just soak the gasket until ready, i didn't know why, but did it for the second installation of the upper seal.. it went in very nicely with no friction until the last say 3/4 inch.  i found if i pushed the tail in, toward the shaft and pushed it would go on in.  No rubber came off the end as it did on the first installation so i assume it was flush on all edges and no problems.. 

i found out that to turn the crankshaft with plugs out,, put the big torque bar on the nut on the alternator, squeeze the belt, and turn,, crank shaft turnedmoved with no problem,, so I learned a new trick there...

i cant  say this was not easy, maybe due to my lack of experience, and fear of breaking something,, but, after about 2 weeks, i got it in.. the lift really made it easier,,

i havent noticed a leak yet, but it was a very short drive and warm up..will see tomorrow how it comes out.

It cost me three rear main seals.. first one i ruined, second one fit, and the third one was a back up if the second one went bad.  so thats about 120.   (40 a piece for best gaskets from Arizona vintage parts..

oil pan gaskets,, first one i had to remove because of my oil sump mistake and had to do again,, 22.0 a piece x 2   (44.00)

exhaust gaskets  i think the was about 20,0..   

brake cleaner, assembly grease, miscellaneous stuff about 50.00, so the out of pocket parts cost was probably 230 to 250.00.

 shop wanted 550 in labor,, i know if i used there labor rate, it was a 3000.00  labor repair,, but given the learning, the advice from everyone, i came out way better,, i will know for sure how it held tomorrow.  at least i know how to do it if i have to do it again,, God forbid...

again, thanks for all the help and patience...

Views: 601

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Kim 

Nice work 

Enjoy 

care to elaborate on the oil sump filter gasket that you had to put a hole in? Going to be doing a similar overhaul. Any recommendations will help!

I had a engine gasket felpro kit,  hadcall the gaskets you needed to redo the front end.  Just laid the end of the connection on one of the gaskets that was wide enough to cover the connectingvpart, drew itvoff and cut w razor blade to fit

Kim made a gasket  himself but forgot to cut the center hole out of it preventing oil flow at start up ( oil pressure light stayed on ) which he realized very quickly 

That will have no effect on the repair you may be doing regarding the rear engine oil seal 

Enjoy 

Yes,  only reason i took it off was i saw a bunch of gunk  in the sump filter,  so i took the arm off., found it had a gasket.  I figured, since it was a blue colored one, same as ones in the oil pump commection and the oil filter arm, it would be ok to use there as both exposed to oil


Kim

When you can do tell us how the repair leak is holding up 

What did you soak the block side of the seal in before you installed it - motor oil ?

Appears the repair did go well 

Let us know the final results 

The cost info you posted and the suppliers  you used is always very good info for others that will be doing this repair 

Thanks for the blow by blow info  and extensive research you did  and posted to be helping others get this repair done by someone who has been there done that —-Hands on info ( always the best ) 

This is a very challenging repair for anyone to jump into in my own opinion especially someone who is not an experienced hobby or professional auto mechanic 

Nice job 

Enjoy 

Yes,  i will keep you informed.  Thanks tonall for encouragement

Well, yesterday i tok car for ride. No prblem no leak. . Today, took out for about 20 mlies.  Pulled n on ramps. Profuse leak.  Very very disappointing. Not sure were to go nxt.  

Where is it leaking?  From the comment I wouldn't know if it were a rear seal, oil pan gasket, etc?

  • Leaking out of the weep hole and thecsides of the cover plate.  Out the fly wheel cover.  There is none comeing down the face of the coverplate,   seems the oil pan seal is fine

For all it's worth it is hard to see how it would just pour oil out of the seal unless it was torn during installation, but then would expect it ti leak out of the gate. This rear seal is  basically just a rubber seal wedged up to a turning metal cylinder. I would  clean, crank the engine and get under with a good light to confirm it is out of the rear seal area.  Since it just suddenly started leaking I am wonder if it might be the rear oil pan gasket.

Frankly, i was surprised by what i saw today.  Yesterday, i took it out for about 10 miles.. just a casual ride.. Before i took the car out today, i look underneath, and nothing had slowly seeped out, it was clean and dry,

Todays ride was longer.  I put it on the ramps and oil was everywhere,, primarily out of the hole at bottom of case,, along the sides in those gaps between the flywheel case,  

thinking it was he oil pan seal possibly, i got out my spot light and i could not see anything coming out of the rear pan seal or from any of the pan bolts,  the pan was dry.  

i took great care not to pressure the the upper seal in , it wen it quite smoothly, no rubber or shavings came out so I thought it was in good.  Using the two videos that were posted. i followed there procedure closely, except that one uses the aerobic sealant the other guys used what looked like a glue out of a plumbers can, 

i just dont know how or why it would e fine for one ride, and next ride be a breakdown.  outside of the sheet happens with old car excuse,,

guess i will at very least, pull off the flywheel cover and see if oil is spewed all back in there...and check the pan connections again.. after that, i guess its back into the pan again.. like i said, veryfrustarating and disappointing, a lot of hours,, 

RSS

Photos

  • Add Photos
  • View All

Forum

Classic Cadillac Parts For Sale - Misc Items

Started by Jason Edge in For Sale. Last reply by Jason Edge 3 hours ago. 165 Replies

I have posted a few Misc items over on my Classic Cadillac Parts Facebook page at…Continue

Tags: classic cadillac parts, classiccadillacparts

Looking for 64 to 66 seat belt buckles, male and female together.

Started by Ryan Frawley in Wanted to Buy. Last reply by Tony and Ginny 429 yesterday. 5 Replies

Hey all, I am in the process of finishing up my 64 coupe deville and noticed that the front seat belts only have the retractor side in the bag I put all the belts in when I got it. I have found it…Continue

Tags: buckle, safety belt, seatbelt, seatbelts

Movie Star Cars.

Started by Kevin Campbell in General Discussion. Last reply by Kurt yesterday. 17 Replies

We have the Village Roadshow film studios about an 1.5 hour drive away.They've put out a call for cars to appear in a movie about Elvis. :-)So, I nominated our 64 Fleetwood as a potential "Movie Star…Continue

Current 1963/64 Cadillac Listings on eBay

Started by Jason Edge in For Sale. Last reply by Jason Edge yesterday. 0 Replies

To see all 1963/64 Cadillacs Listed on eBay in the USA…Continue

Tags: ebay

Blog Posts

Stuck at two red (dash) lights!

Posted by Jeff Kinzler on November 3, 2019 at 10:00pm 9 Comments

I hope someone can help solve these two electrical problems that appeared one after the other.

By way of background: The car, a '64 Eldorado has very limited use. It was at a restoration shop for 15 months until last January-  that supposedly did a bunch of wiring repairs including rebuilding the gas gauge that still hasn't worked properly, and the clock that hasn't worked, and re-soldering the broken wires in the drive door. All window and seat controls appear to be…

Continue

driveshaft help

Posted by wayne weaver on October 9, 2019 at 4:41pm 1 Comment

can anyone help me with a driveshaft ? I have a 1963 Cadillac 62 series 4dr with the hydro-matic trans. I need the male splined shaft on the front of the rear driveshaft section. the piece with the nut attached by clip.id be willing to buy a shaft if its not horribly priced.

Dash removal

Posted by Jake Mickley on October 9, 2019 at 12:06am 9 Comments

Hello everyone,

On a 63 CDV, if a guy wanted to remove the entire dash to get all the metal painted, and do some other things behind there, how would he go about doing that?  I checked here and the shop manual, but can't find a complete guide.

As always, and help or direction is appreciated.  Thanks!

--Jake

Introducing myself

Posted by Gary Marchand on October 7, 2019 at 9:32pm 8 Comments

Thanks for letting me join the club.  Picked up this ‘64 Coupe Deville a few months ago out of Beverly MA, the car has few stickers on it from various Cadillac clubs, didn’t know if anyone might recognize it from it’s “Glory days.” Everything seems pretty healthy except for the body and some very Mickey Mouse repairs, was wondering if anyone had any leads on…

Continue

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

© 2019   Created by Jason Edge.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service